Manifold hits head, What to do.

[S14DB]

I go to test fit my manifold to the head. The #4 loop hits a bolt hole standoff in the head. I have about 10mm before the flange will be flush.

Could I grind down this standoff? Not using it for anything. Didn't bolt to anything and I think I can shave 10mm off it without hitting the head.

[georgesal]

yeah you could, but what kind of manifold is that. kinda wierd that it would hit if the company did R&D on the manifold

[Dousan_PG]

shvae it down
should be fine
if not then weld it shut

[S14DB]

Silkroad. Maybe it's the wrap, maybe the S13 doesn't have those standoffs.

[Slidin240Wayz]

It's an S14 SR. I say shave it down.

Carlos

[koukimonster139]

shave it.

haha ive said that before

seriously that looks like the mounting location for the stock heat shield.

[A Spec Products]

Shave it like your private parts.

Don't be bashful.

Be careful with that heat wrap stuff, I've seen some manifolds welds melt.

[mjjstang]

I may be off my rocker here, but by the way it looks, you have an issue where 10 mm at the bolt, is really 15 or so at the point of contact, you know what I mean. Its hard to tell. Btw, SELLOUT

[projectRDM]

Shave it. A lot of the equal length manifolds require it. I've got an SR here right now I just grinded a huge chunk out of in the same place.

[g6civcx]

Not what you asked, but I prefer Swain Tech coating over heat wrap.

http://www.swaintech.com/store.asp?pid=10969

[steve shadows]

eh, thats pretty rediculous (in ref to first pic)

what about shaving the head in thatone spot instead?


or go top mount....sigh, you do know that wrapping the manifold usually does more harm than good.

I never wrap tubular manifolds, I just make sure they 'Fit" and that they are made out of a solid good steel

with a good thickness (good examples are peak boost, full race, hybridynamics).

They usually dont give off much heat under hood (espcially external setups with dumps) and with the proper tuning

(espically timing map) the underhood temps around the mani should not be that hot. You run into more probs with

bottom mount tubular manis i guess, because heat soak its higher up and the runners are up top. I use a turbo blanket on all top

mount setups and reccomend that, + I wrap the dump pipes fromt he turbos down.

But i would not reccoment wrapping the manifold, lead to cracks on two of my old logs, and ive seen some others develop cracks and

void warranties in the process of caused by wrapping.

[S14DB]

So, your solution is,
Top mount manifold($1200)
Turbo($1500)
Downpipe($400)
Wastgate($350)

Throwing money at the problem is the solution?

[j20accord00]

Originally Posted by S14DB

So, your solution is,
Top mount manifold($1200)
Turbo($1500)
Downpipe($400)
Wastgate($350)

Throwing money at the problem is the solution?

dude that was funny as hell lol..

BTW where did you get the black wrap from, or did you just paint it black. looks awesome

[koukimonster139]

where did you get the double post from? looks awesome

[projectRDM]

Originally Posted by S14DB

So, your solution is,
Top mount manifold($1200)
Turbo($1500)
Downpipe($400)
Wastgate($350)

Throwing money at the problem is the solution?

Or, unwrap the manifold and leave it exposed ($0). I agree, heatwrap does more harm than good in the cars I've seen it on. We unwrapped a Hotshot header one time only to have it crumble into pieces where the wrap was laid between the runners.

[steve shadows]

Originally Posted by S14DB

So, your solution is,
Top mount manifold($1200)
Turbo($1500)
Downpipe($400)
Wastgate($350)

Throwing money at the problem is the solution?

hybridynamics or peak boost kit...

-manifold is 750 bucks dude.
-wg is like 250 if you get 38mm
-turbo (50 trim to4e/t3) which will output more than enough like 550 buks(450whp) (use .63 ar turbine with 0-trim turbine wheel for insanity).
-downpipe is like 150 bucks max if you have one custom made by a muffler shop (where the hell did you get 400 maybe if you get the kit one).

I mean how much are you honestly investing in making "stable" power and "stable boost" with your bottom mount internal setup?

I don't even understand why people even bother using these setups for goals over 330whp

pretty fricken cheap if you ask me and night and day comparison in tuning, boost stability and efficency as well as ease of working with the system, i mean the gains and reasons for this are endless...

if your adamant on convincing yourself this costs 1000000 dollars

then maybe you should just sell the silk road manifold and get a tomei...

tomeir clears very nicely.

[Flybert]

Shave it. Cut off the part that extends out on the head. I shaved mine.

[McRussellPants]

Don't mess with shadows, he read the advanced FAQ on the Garret Page.


OH NOES!

[blu808]

I had a silk road mani on my s13 it cleared fine. A few years ago i had a signal manifold that hit the same area as yours but on a s13 motor. I shaved the head and it cleared fine.

[steve shadows]

Originally Posted by McRussellPants

Don't mess with shadows, he read the advanced FAQ on the Garret Page.


OH NOES!

I wanted people like YOU to read it.

im just a poli sci major I don't know anything about turbos or hp

; )

[staygold24]

Take off wrap $0
Grind down $0

Being able to use your manifold and not spend any money: priceless

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by steve shadows

hybridynamics or peak boost kit...

-manifold is 750 bucks dude.
-wg is like 250 if you get 38mm
-turbo (50 trim to4e/t3) which will output more than enough like 550 buks(450whp) (use .63 ar turbine with 0-trim turbine wheel for insanity).
-downpipe is like 150 bucks max if you have one custom made by a muffler shop (where the hell did you get 400 maybe if you get the kit one).

I mean how much are you honestly investing in making "stable" power and "stable boost" with your bottom mount internal setup?

I don't even understand why people even bother using these setups for goals over 330whp

pretty fricken cheap if you ask me and night and day comparison in tuning, boost stability and efficency as well as ease of working with the system, i mean the gains and reasons for this are endless...

if your adamant on convincing yourself this costs 1000000 dollars

then maybe you should just sell the silk road manifold and get a tomei...

tomeir clears very nicely.

$1700 solution that leaves me with a laggy ass turbo from the 80's...

My goals are only 300hp. Quick response, MPG and streetability. Stock T28 fits that bill just fine.

The goal is not to throw money at a problem. It's to find a solution that still fits your goals. Shaving is the cheapest and looks like it will work with no negatives. The next would be to get another manifold that fits better. I just wanted to know if the cheapest solution was feasible.

Why did the Tomei manifolds ship with wrap in that one Group Buy?

[nrg]

steve shadows, the reason for heatwraps isn't to keep engine bay temps down. it's to keep the temp inside the manifold to the turbo.

[cotbu]

Shave her, save some loot!

[slideways14]

did you remember to put the exhuast gasket in?

[sblack13]

i remember my friends manifold on his s14 sr (greddy) fit perfect. Then when it was on a s13 sr the head had to be shaved in order for it to fit, I think they designed the manifold for a s14/s15 so I think that should clear anything up before you say they did'nt put enough research into it. Just compare the two you will see i'm saying.

[Ghostdrifter]

Originally Posted by nrg

steve shadows, the reason for heatwraps isn't to keep engine bay temps down. it's to keep the temp inside the manifold to the turbo.

Exactly, it keeps thermal energy of exhaust gases from dissipateing through convection, hence more energy to spool your turbo which means better response and better low end torque

cause the energy to power the turbo comes from the thermal energy and not the pressure differential between the exhaust gas and the atmosphere

[NemeGuero]

lol at bitchfest.

[S14DB]

Shaved her down:


and it still hit the head:


Gap is still to big IMHO:


I'm sure I can wrench the manifold down and get it to seal. Yet, it will be pressing against the head which will put stress on it. Making it crack rather quickly.

Also, there is a tablespoon of oil in the compressor and turbine housings of my turbo. Leading me to believe that the seals are gone...

[steve shadows]

Originally Posted by S14DB

$1700 solution that leaves me with a laggy ass turbo from the 80's...

My goals are only 300hp. Quick response, MPG and streetability. Stock T28 fits that bill just fine.

The goal is not to throw money at a problem. It's to find a solution that still fits your goals. Shaving is the cheapest and looks like it will work with no negatives. The next would be to get another manifold that fits better. I just wanted to know if the cheapest solution was feasible.

Why did the Tomei manifolds ship with wrap in that one Group Buy?

really? a laggy ass turbo from the 80s? man you are talking far out of your ass.

a 40 trim to4e will get you 300whp and even more torque and is about 1/3 the cost of "turbo from the future" is i guess where your going.

It will spool up faster than youd even want, but i know you wont try it so im going to give up on converting you.

bottom mount is fine, your manifold is just f-ed apparently...call them up ask them what the deal is with their product...

or do they only speak japanese...you can read kanji right?

In ref to tomei and the group buy I dont even know what your talking about. Does tomei suggest you used header wrap on their

manifold? That would indeed be INTERESTING to find out.