bov install. eliminating stock bov?

[roel03]

Your revs drop then go back up to normal, that is not running correctly.

Try going to a track day or autocross and then having to brake abrubtly. Better yet, recirculate for a week and see if you ever go back. I am willing to bet you will not, unless of course you are more concerned with proving to people around you that you have a turbo and make cool noises.

We are not saying it will die at every stop with the BOV vented. But it will not stay alive at the correct idle with the blow off valve vented. And modifying your car to run worse and behave wrong is just plain retarded.

[roel03]

And yes, HKS makes a screw on recirculation fitting for their BOV's. Buy it, or actually go back to your BPV since you have the SMIC.

[KaminaSan]

Originally Posted by roel03

Your revs drop then go back up to normal, that is not running correctly.

Try going to a track day or autocross and then having to brake abrubtly. Better yet, recirculate for a week and see if you ever go back. I am willing to bet you will not, unless of course you are more concerned with proving to people around you that you have a turbo and make cool noises.

We are not saying it will die at every stop with the BOV vented. But it will not stay alive at the correct idle with the blow off valve vented. And modifying your car to run worse and behave wrong is just plain retarded.

Ahh, I guess that's what he was trying to say. Natually recircd is how it should be, and rev dropping is not 'normal', but the car is without a doubt driveable.

Thank you for clearing the confusion up. Hopefully I can get a recirc fitting for this knockoff greddy.

[lexlaxlux]

I suggest you don't run a BOV- unless your Mapped... no point in really running one if your still stuck on a maf/afm. Sure it sounds cool, but your driving your car daily right? Swoosh Swoosh (big shiny FMIC) Cop magnet my friend.

But... If your still fixed on it... to fix your rev/bog problems (been covered many times) run a POS AFC on that meter and call it a day.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by codyace

You've obviously either become accustomed to a shitty driving car, or you've never been in a properly setup one.

Sorry dude, you're not going to convince anyone here that your car can idle at stock, and not stall. You must have a magic damn car.



Any HKS sucks. Why? Non recirculated SSQV blows.




Amen Brother

i drive my car everyday and it idles at 800rpms, it doesnt jump around, it doesnt die when i stop, and its not a shitty car. im not trying to convince anyone either setup is better, i HAVE driven a sr20det with BOTH setups and they BOTH are good. when i was recirculating mine it was louder than the greddy im running now.

[KaminaSan]

Originally Posted by buentellomma

i drive my car everyday and it idles at 800rpms, it doesnt jump around, it doesnt die when i stop, and its not a shitty car. im not trying to convince anyone either setup is better, i HAVE driven a sr20det with BOTH setups and they BOTH are good. when i was recirculating mine it was louder than the greddy im running now.

This. I drove the SR with stock SMIC, and you can't get much more recircd than that. It didn't feel all that much different.

[shinobis13hb]

Originally Posted by KaminaSan

This. I drove the SR with stock SMIC, and you can't get much more recircd than that. It didn't feel all that much different.

what setup are you running now?? spec exhaust ect ect.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by KaminaSan

This. I drove the SR with stock SMIC, and you can't get much more recircd than that. It didn't feel all that much different.

i went from a smic with stock bov to a midmount setup with atmosphere dump bov and the stock was a bit louder and not as responsive as my current setup but to each their own i guess...

[codyace]

Originally Posted by lexlaxlux

I suggest you don't run a BOV- unless your Mapped... no point in really running one if your still stuck on a maf/afm. Sure it sounds cool, but your driving your car daily right? Swoosh Swoosh (big shiny FMIC) Cop magnet my friend.

But... If your still fixed on it... to fix your rev/bog problems (been covered many times) run a POS AFC on that meter and call it a day.

Wait, what?!@?

No BOV on a Maf car? You are kidding right? run a AFC on the car?

Dude...

Originally Posted by roel03

Your revs drop then go back up to normal, that is not running correctly.

Try going to a track day or autocross and then having to brake abrubtly. Better yet, recirculate for a week and see if you ever go back. I am willing to bet you will not, unless of course you are more concerned with proving to people around you that you have a turbo and make cool noises.

We are not saying it will die at every stop with the BOV vented. But it will not stay alive at the correct idle with the blow off valve vented. And modifying your car to run worse and behave wrong is just plain retarded.

This is what I'm getting at. I guess people have become complacent with their shit and can deal with surgey idle at times, and that sort of junk. I can't.

Originally Posted by KaminaSan

This. I drove the SR with stock SMIC, and you can't get much more recircd than that. It didn't feel all that much different.

Can't get much more recirced than that? What is that supposed to mean?

[badbob2121]

wow...

all ill say is i run a hks ssqv ser iii non-reciruclated

i can hit full boost, go straight into N, and come to a stop

no bog, no un-even idle, nothing

my sr20det drives like a new car ....


to the OP, its your car... be your own judge and learn from your own experiences
and take this all as advice not the truth

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by badbob2121

wow...

all ill say is i run a hks ssqv ser iii non-reciruclated

i can hit full boost, go straight into N, and come to a stop

no bog, no un-even idle, nothing

my sr20det drives like a new car ....


to the OP, its your car... be your own judge and learn from your own experiences
and take this all as advice not the truth

you and I must have magical sr20s then because i have no issues with my atmospheric dump bov .... there is nothing wrong with either setup its up to the op which is better for him

[shinobis13hb]

Originally Posted by badbob2121

wow...

all ill say is i run a hks ssqv ser iii non-reciruclated

i can hit full boost, go straight into N, and come to a stop

no bog, no un-even idle, nothing

my sr20det drives like a new car ....


to the OP, its your car... be your own judge and learn from your own experiences
and take this all as advice not the truth

well its been raining these past days so i havent been able to work on my car. once i tgets dry i will take off the recirc plug everything up.

Originally Posted by buentellomma

you and I must have magical sr20s then because i have no issues with my atmospheric dump bov .... there is nothing wrong with either setup its up to the op which is better for him

my old hks was leaking that is why i replaced it. IIRC i didnt have any problems untill it started to leak. i will let you guys know how it works when it dries up.

[badbob2121]

Originally Posted by buentellomma

you and I must have magical sr20s then because i have no issues with my atmospheric dump bov .... there is nothing wrong with either setup its up to the op which is better for him

lol, i guess so

but i will say that i have driven both recirculated and atmospheric BOV'S and im not declining the mechanical benefits of a recirucalted bov's when running maf's

BUT....all this talk of how it makes it "lose power" or run like garbage is all just he said she said BS imo

[nismoman]

I think i have magical SR #3 I have a SSQV. no probs with it, no stalling no rev drops.

I guess the point is that there is no benefit to the OP by changing his stock recirc setup. He can do it if he wants and it wont really hurt anything either.......

[roel03]

Originally Posted by codyace

This is what I'm getting at. I guess people have become complacent with their shit and can deal with surgey idle at times, and that sort of junk. I can't.

As you can see, there is no point to try and help ignorant people.

[KaminaSan]

Originally Posted by shinobis13hb

what setup are you running now?? spec exhaust ect ect.

Well, first off, I got mine done at PG like you, and so here are the things I did.

My upgrades so far:
1.)Reset the Mine's ECU that came with the clip back to the stock tune.
2.)Walbro 255 lph
3.)FMIC(CX racing with knockoff Greddy Type S)
4.)Circuit Sports turbo elbow
5.)3 inch downpipe
6.)Circuit Sports Test Pipe(Not much louder)
7.) 2.5 inch catback(custom made from previous owner, gonna get a real exhaust soon)

I set my idle to 850, and my BoV isn't very tight(so I only get a tiny amount of compressor surge when I'm at like 1/2 psi and let off too slow).

In second, I'll hit full boost 8 psi(washer on my turbo), and then let off, pshhh blowoff, rpms go down from 3600, then it goes to about 450 at the lowest, then shoots right back up to 850.

Yeah, it's not how i'd LIKE it, but it doesn't bother me too much.

[shinobis13hb]

Originally Posted by KaminaSan

Well, first off, I got mine done at PG like you, and so here are the things I did.

My upgrades so far:
1.)Reset the Mine's ECU that came with the clip back to the stock tune.
2.)Walbro 255 lph
3.)FMIC(CX racing with knockoff Greddy Type S)
4.)Circuit Sports turbo elbow
5.)3 inch downpipe
6.)Circuit Sports Test Pipe(Not much louder)
7.) 2.5 inch catback(custom made from previous owner, gonna get a real exhaust soon)

I set my idle to 850, and my BoV isn't very tight(so I only get a tiny amount of compressor surge when I'm at like 1/2 psi and let off too slow).

In second, I'll hit full boost 8 psi(washer on my turbo), and then let off, pshhh blowoff, rpms go down from 3600, then it goes to about 450 at the lowest, then shoots right back up to 850.

Yeah, it's not how i'd LIKE it, but it doesn't bother me too much.

well thing to concider is possibly that your BOV is leaking? my old ssqv was leaking. what was your mines ecu tuned for? are you sure it was damaging your motor? i know rather be safe then sorry so im not saying you shouldnt have gotten it reset ahahah.that exhaust system should help you out a bit! my car currently has.
blitz tuned ecu.
apexi intake kit.(need to replace the cone)
3" turbo elbow
3"JDM downpipe
SMIC
hks ssqv3
full exhaust with 2 resnators and 3 "magnaflow muffler.
my car is pretty quiet and it sounds bad ass!
set at 10LBS

[KaminaSan]

Originally Posted by shinobis13hb

well thing to concider is possibly that your BOV is leaking? my old ssqv was leaking. what was your mines ecu tuned for? are you sure it was damaging your motor? i know rather be safe then sorry so im not saying you shouldnt have gotten it reset ahahah.that exhaust system should help you out a bit! my car currently has.
blitz tuned ecu.
apexi intake kit.(need to replace the cone)
3" turbo elbow
3"JDM downpipe
SMIC
hks ssqv3
full exhaust with 2 resnators and 3 "magnaflow muffler.
my car is pretty quiet and it sounds bad ass!
set at 10LBS

My BoV leaking would be under boost, which it holds boost just fine. It would be stuttering if it was leaking. I don't know if you saw some of the other threads about Japanese tuned ECUs, but most of the threads were posted in by people who actually DO tune ecus, and they were saying that the ignition advance is pretty crazy, and that it's fine on cars with high octane levels, but on california piss 91 octane, it will lead to detonation, pre-det=bearing stress.
http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/352940-mines-ecu.html
Mine's Inquiry Form

I can tell you it caused problems with my engine, because I replaced my oil pan about two months ago, no metal or anything in the pan.

I started to run the car a bit harder, and noticed it would stutter a bit after 4k rpms, did an oil change about three weeks ago, to find gold sparkles in my oil. Luckily its still running, but I'm assuming there was some damage done to my bearings, which sucks since I just bought this motor, and will probably have to rebuild it.

Be careful with that blitz ECU.

[shinobis13hb]

Originally Posted by KaminaSan

My BoV leaking would be under boost, which it holds boost just fine. It would be stuttering if it was leaking. I don't know if you saw some of the other threads about Japanese tuned ECUs, but most of the threads were posted in by people who actually DO tune ecus, and they were saying that the ignition advance is pretty crazy, and that it's fine on cars with high octane levels, but on california piss 91 octane, it will lead to detonation, pre-det=bearing stress.
http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/352940-mines-ecu.html
Mine's Inquiry Form

I can tell you it caused problems with my engine, because I replaced my oil pan about two months ago, no metal or anything in the pan.

I started to run the car a bit harder, and noticed it would stutter a bit after 4k rpms, did an oil change about three weeks ago, to find gold sparkles in my oil. Luckily its still running, but I'm assuming there was some damage done to my bearings, which sucks since I just bought this motor, and will probably have to rebuild it.

Be careful with that blitz ECU.

hmm i see i cna understand your concern .. we did spend good money on our swaps. well an update i guess, after xmas i am going to be getting a FMIC when i do i am going to get my car dynod with wideband ect.. i get a GREAT deal at a place by my house its called J&G auto the guy tunes and knows all about rotory. when i changed my oil i inspected it and i didnt see any bad signs of wear or metal. oil didnt look bad. allthough i think my lifters need to be bled.

i dont know but my sr is pretty fucking tits. i stay side by side with my buddys s14 w rb25. he gets me on the stop but on a roll im side by side. but i am going to get my car retuned with diffrent injectors and a maf in about 6 month aswell as a turbo..? i jsut have to finish some other things and pay for some tickets.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by badbob2121

wow...

all ill say is i run a hks ssqv ser iii non-reciruclated

i can hit full boost, go straight into N, and come to a stop

no bog, no un-even idle, nothing

my sr20det drives like a new car ....


to the OP, its your car... be your own judge and learn from your own experiences
and take this all as advice not the truth

If it really worked for all cars, why do every single OEM car that has been turbocharged, been recirculated.

THere are way to many variables with these sr20 cars in terms of previous owner and setup to say that they all do or do not work...you are correct...but 98% of the ones that 'work just fine' either have high idles, have extremely tight blow off valves, or have their IACV cranked or similar to help compensate. There is no other reason for it...no magical setups, not mystery tunes, nothing.

So while we may seem overbearing saying it won't work, the truth is that the only reason it 'will' work are due to extracurricular issues.