Power Steering+AN Lines + Cooler=Good times!

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by NismoPlsr

For anyone having sealing problems with the high pressure rack fitting the issues seems to be with the Earls adapter fittings being too short and the o-ring not seating in the rack. A couple other companies sell longer fittings.



Details in this thread.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/201523...s-leaking.html

I'll bump this thread with my info...
I just contacted both All Star and Flaming River. Both are too short to reach the bottom of the rack on the high pressure side. All Star is .740" and the Flaming River fitting is .840". OEM is .969".

[Danial]

Originally Posted by Beejis60

I'll bump this thread with my info...
I just contacted both All Star and Flaming River. Both are too short to reach the bottom of the rack on the high pressure side. All Star is .740" and the Flaming River fitting is .840". OEM is .969".

This seems to suggest to me that maybe this modification should be altered to have this fitting welded in place? Or that the Earls fitting be welded to the screw in end of the OEM? Obviously you would need to be very for the latter of the two to line them up correctly before you TIG

Are both the rack and fitting steel?

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by Danial

This seems to suggest to me that maybe this modification should be altered to have this fitting welded in place? Or that the Earls fitting be welded to the screw in end of the OEM? Obviously you would need to be very for the latter of the two to line them up correctly before you TIG

Are both the rack and fitting steel?

Well, my measurement of the OEM fitting was from the seat to the hex head; after threading in my OEM fitting again last night to measure the total thread depth and not total fitting length, it appears to be just around .800 to .820 on the high pressure side. One MAY be able to use the Flaming River fitting if they ran a die over it to thread all the way up to the hex head.
As for weld-ons, Earls has alum, steel, and stainless; OEM box is steel. Additionally, the steel weld-on bung is only $4. I would weld it in a glove bag back-purged with argon though, just in case.

[Danial]

^^ Excellent info, +1

if someone tries it please post up your results, i'd love to see it

[Mr.J]

Originally Posted by Danial

This seems to suggest to me that maybe this modification should be altered to have this fitting welded in place? Or that the Earls fitting be welded to the screw in end of the OEM? Obviously you would need to be very for the latter of the two to line them up correctly before you TIG

Are both the rack and fitting steel?

What about just removing a little material from the top of the rack house so that the AN fitting seal properly?

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by Mr.J

What about just removing a little material from the top of the rack house so that the AN fitting seal properly?

Though there is certainly nothing wrong with this approach, it is easier said than done. To remove it to be 100% flush, or even close to that, you will need to set it in a vise, whether for machining or for hand-grinding; and there is no good surface to clamp to for using a mill. You may be able to clamp on to the outlet/inlet ports that feed to the crossover, but then, you will need to remove material by hand since it will be out of tram with the mill.