SR boggs when putting oil cap on - Low Vaccuum

[richmond82]

Update for today 4/23. I pulled the upper mani off and found fuel in 3 of the runners... when i turn power on to fuel pump ecu etc no fuel drops into lower manifold.... any suggestions here ?

Update for today 4/24. Found one missing oring (inj to manifold) on injector #2 if counting from front to firewall. I replaced that and all of the others (inj to fr and inj to lower mani) with brand new orings. Put back together and fired up and still getting bog issue and 14HG Vacuum
need to run a logg and then send to shadowerks - havent done this yet wanted to do a little more diagnostic before i bog him down with my problem. : )


Update for 4/30 - 5/1
Finally got Reducing coupler for a 4"od to 3"od. I am running the 4" Anti-Surge Compressor. Ordered a Spectre 4" to 3" reducer but the douchebags at Oreileys said the measurements were od but they ended by being id. Ending up going to Grovers Plumbing and Electrical for a Rubber Reducer for Piping. Sealed up just right Think i spend more time than money building the tool... I found a Boost Leak at the boost controller and that was it..

Update for Cinco De Mayo Weekend 5/3 - 5/5

* Reset Timing per spec at 15 degrees
*Timing Lock at 15 degrees in Haltech
*Fuel trim at 0
*Data Logg sent off to Shadowerks

Video of Data Logg Session

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02xkS9iwshQ

Video of Boost Leakdown @ 20PSI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhmEDjGcivs


[IMG][/IMG]





Finished up switch panel and final wire up while i was waiting.

ALSO Most Important update.....Thank you all for your insight and help, I appreciate all !


The Fuel pump and all other Accessories are wired into a ATC fuse block and Respective Relays. Ignition and Power on Switches

Searched Tech Forums for issue - all info i have found leads to a few things...PCV Valve, Piston Rings,Sticky Valve,ring lands(mixed info on this one) or vacuum/boost leak, air leak on intake.
Just installed Power Enterprises HEad Gasket and ARP head Studs. Head Machined at Bullet Machine with components checked.


A little more info on the car -
Wiring Specialties made me a new S15 Harness with all of the Haltech Sensors wired in (AIT,Wideband,Map) for easy integration.

Data input and linearized -
*We have set the Inj Dead times and Flow Rates Correctly
*We have done the Fresh Air calibration for the wideband
*Calibrated ECU for Proper Ignition Dwell times (LS2 Coils)
*Calibrated for 0% Throttle and WOT calibration for the Q45 TB TPS.

Current Build is 1.5 YRS in process.



Issues:
14HG Steady Vaccuum at idle (good vacuum is 18-22hg @ idle)
getting a ton of AIR Blowby in the Crankcase
Car will run better when oil cap is off. when putting back on it boggs and wants to die
Car is acting like timing is off (just got timing map done)


Have Checked and diagnosed
125 for first Puff and max 140 all 4 cylinders
PCV Checked and Cleaned
Greddy Catch can with proper routing
*No oil in intercooler piping or Turbo intake outlets
Currently Running 10.5AFR @ idle (Optimum idle AFRs are 14.8-15.2)
Car will not drive -

SR20DET S15
*Toda 256 in/ex Cams
*Haltech Plat Pro Current Map by Shadowerks Steve.
*Haltech MAP AIT
*Widebands by PLX and Haltech
*Garret 3076r T3
*750cc injectors
*Q45 TB
*Aeromotive FP and FPR
*Titan top mount rail
*LS2 Coils MAgnecor wires
*Greddy FMIC
* Greddy Full 3 inch exhaust
*Tial 38mm Wastegate with external dump
*Oil Cooler
*50MM VBand BOV
*Russell SS -4 AN Lines from tank to rail/fpr

Before pulling fuse box
[IMG][/IMG]

[Darren]

obviously you are running quite rich, have you looked into that as the culprit of why you're car is bogging?

At the very least you should look at the injectors and o2, although if the o2 was faulty your car would probably still run well enough to drive, just suck back the gas.

Sound to me like you have one or more faulty injectors or a terrible map on the ecu

[xMOAR LOW S13x]

Check to see if there are any restrictions in your oil lines for the turbo

[EsChassisLove]

My vac is 10 at idle. Car runs perfect.

SR20s are weird.

[ultimateirving]

Does air rush out or rush in when you remove the oil cap?

[wangan_cruiser]

U have a vacuum leak. Do a leakdown test

[richmond82]

Originally Posted by Darren

obviously you are running quite rich, have you looked into that as the culprit of why you're car is bogging?

At the very least you should look at the injectors and o2, although if the o2 was faulty your car would probably still run well enough to drive, just suck back the gas.

Sound to me like you have one or more faulty injectors or a terrible map on the ecu

I could add negative value to Overall Fuel Trim table to lean out but thats not a permanent fix.


I am going to run a data logg today and send to Steve At Shadowerks to watch in real time and help out.

How would you recommend i test the injectors ? Make sure they are getting power and ground or through the ECU ?

I am literally minutes away from pulling intake manifold and checking for any leaks (this is one thing i havent done yet)

A little more info on the car -
Wiring Specialties made me a new S15 Harness with all of the Haltech Sensors wired in (AIT,Wideband,Map) for easy integration. The Fuel pump and all other Accessories are wired into a ATC fuse block and Respective Relays. Ignition on Switch

*We have set the Inj Dead times and Flow Rates Correctly
*We have done the Fresh Air calibration for the wideband
*Calibrated ECU for Proper Ignition Dwell times (LS2 Coils)
*Calibrated for 0% Throttle and WOT calibration for the Q45 TB TPS.

Current Build is 1.5 YRS in process.

[richmond82]

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

Does air rush out or rush in when you remove the oil cap?

Out.. but if you cover (piece of paper etc) it begins to pull in. same when you disconnect the PCV valve


I have CP Pistons Rings Manley rods main studs and acl type H race bearings and thrust washers in the garage ready to be put in.

Dilema - i am knee deep in this build and would like to get her running for a few months before i have the Machine Shop get to work....

[richmond82]

Originally Posted by wangan_cruiser

U have a vacuum leak. Do a leakdown test

One thing i havent done yet is just that - a leak down test. i need to go buy one
I havent pulled the intake manifold and checked to see if the Gasket maybe is pinched or misalligned ( i was too lazy to replace a stud on the lower intake manifold when i noticed it didnt have one. I used a bolt but thats not the best way to ensure i have proper seal.) I will update once i have completed this...

[richmond82]

Originally Posted by EsChassisLove

My vac is 10 at idle. Car runs perfect.

SR20s are weird.

You sir are lucky that it runs well for you. That low of Vacuum could mean a variety of things ?

but it runs great so no worries.... and yes my S15 is a tempermental Bitch. which is why the rebuild

[xMOAR LOW S13x]

Just pull the fuel rail and turn car to acc if there leaky youll know

[richmond82]

Originally Posted by xMOAR LOW S13x

Check to see if there are any restrictions in your oil lines for the turbo

Good Call, i checked that last week.
I had new SS lines made up using ATP oil restrictor for the Turbo and a 5/8 AN SS return. Oil lines go from block to oil cooler then turbo and then back to block.

Coolant lines were a AHOLE to get flow and bends right with very limited room...

Glad that part is over...

[ultimateirving]

Any chance the opening at the rear of the head for the crankcase line became plugged clogged?

[richmond82]

Originally Posted by xMOAR LOW S13x

Just pull the fuel rail and turn car to acc if there leaky youll know

if they were leaky wouldnt i smell fuel ? Unless they arent sealing on the rail - i will do this after i check mani

[richmond82]

Originally Posted by xMOAR LOW S13x

Just pull the fuel rail and turn car to acc if there leaky youll know

I pulled mani and found fuel in 3 of the lower intake runners. I turned key to ACC and no fuel dripped into lower intake. I found one injector with no oring on it - could be the culprit for all of my headaches... will know for sure tomorrow

[blkvrtswp]

ACC? My fuel pump does not turn on unless my key is on RUN, but I am 100% OEM wiring - no workarounds.

If you have no o-ring on a injector it would shoot fuel all over the place.

If the injectors are leaking internally, electrically or from o-rings, the fuel stays in the intake manifold.

EDIT: This is for side feed, sorry I see you are top feed

[KoukiMonsta]

Originally Posted by richmond82

I pulled mani and found fuel in 3 of the lower intake runners. I turned key to ACC and no fuel dripped into lower intake. I found one injector with no oring on it - could be the culprit for all of my headaches... will know for sure tomorrow

You talking about rail to manifold o ring?

Or the injector to rail?

Assuming injector to rail, since the other would be obvious. How does fuel not spray everywhere!?

Also agreed with above, did you prime the pump or just turn the acc on?- edit read the update..I like how u update the first post.

Have you boost leak tested this thing?

[richmond82]

Originally Posted by KoukiMonsta

You talking about rail to manifold o ring?

Or the injector to rail?

Assuming injector to rail, since the other would be obvious. How does fuel not spray everywhere!?

Also agreed with above, did you prime the pump or just turn the acc on?- edit read the update..I like how u update the first post.

Have you boost leak tested this thing?

I have not boost leak tested nor cylinder leak down test nor head/valve leakdown test yet... was going to pick up a can of brake clean and see if i can find any vacuum leaks that are not revealing themselves, little effers ! then on to more extensive tests... FML i just want to drive my baby !

[richmond82]

runs a little smoother (seems to) but still getting air blow by and low vacuum

[EsChassisLove]

Originally Posted by richmond82

runs a little smoother (seems to) but still getting air blow by and low vacuum

You will always have the air blowing out of the oil cap. Never seen an SR that doesn't do that

[inopsey]

have you set the mechanical timing so its synchronized with the ecu? saw you set the tps voltage but didnt do this set in the haltech setup

[richmond82]

Originally Posted by inopsey

have you set the mechanical timing so its synchronized with the ecu? saw you set the tps voltage but didnt do this set in the haltech setup

Sorry, not sure i understand your ?


We have calibrated in the Haltech Plat pro for 0 throttle and WOT the readings were 0 and 4.42% if i remember correctly

The timing was set when the head was put back on post changing the Head Gasket and Studs

[KoukiMonsta]

Boost leak test that shit!

#1 cause of low vac

Super easy to do

[inopsey]

you must go into the haltech software and set the timing to your desired value (ie 15) in the setup section (main table), set timing lock on in the software and verify/adjust the timing with a light at the cas/distributor.

[richmond82]

Originally Posted by inopsey

you must go into the haltech software and set the timing to your desired value (ie 15) in the setup section (main table), set timing lock on in the software and verify/adjust the timing with a light at the cas/distributor.

its at 15.0 in the main setup tables. was shot with timing light for verification. Will need to perform this again before checking off as possibile solution. Compared to my Apexi DJetro i Love Haltech

[inopsey]

you also must enable timing lock when doing this

[richmond82]

Originally Posted by inopsey

you also must enable timing lock when doing this

Timing lock is enabled. I will double check tomorrow. Going to do a leak down test and boost leak test in next two days. I will update with results as this car is begging to be driven.

Thank you all for your insight and help, I appreciate all !

[ultimateirving]

Also, on ur picture the nipple on the valve cover near the turbo, whats going on there?

[richmond82]

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

Also, on ur picture the nipple on the valve cover near the turbo, whats going on there?

Good Call. This is an old Pic before hooking back up the lines routed to Greddy Catch Can

[richmond82]

Update for 4/30 - 5/1
Finally got Reducing coupler for a 4"od to 3"od. I am running the 4" Anti-Surge Compressor. Ordered a Spectre 4" to 3" reducer but the douchebags at Oreileys said the measurements were od but they ended by being id. Ending up going to Grovers Plumbing and Electrical for a Rubber Reducer for Piping. Sealed up just right Think i spend more time than money building the tool... I found a Boost Leak at the boost controller and that was it..