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ProjectSQ · 11-19-2014, 01:12 AM

Alright let's leave the guy alone. I mean Clair Patterson was a clean freak but if it wasn't for him we would still be using lead supplemented gasoline and poisoning ourselves. (Thank you The Cosmos)

On the topic of clearances I'm pretty certain that the gap was the issue. I was referring to inches so 0.0025" and 0.0005 beyond the fsm's limit. Also contributing the possibility the bearings wore in slightly increasing that clearance and the shitty oil that was ready for a change. (Like I said I was right around the 500 mile engine break in oil change). all that together could have been the cause and I hope that's all it is.

I agree we should gather up some silly facts for those wanting to learn. For example I will never use the tube of RTV that came with my oem gasket set. It cured way too fast and became "crumbly" where as the black RTV from advance or oreillys works great. Also with metal head gaskets be sure to get copper gasket adhesive (I think that's what it's called). Always spend money on new oem (or equal quality) oil pumps, water pumps, timing chains, and timing chain tensioners. BEFORE TRYING TO BUY SOME SILLY PERFORMANCE PART! (No point in upgrading when your engine's foundation is weak). I can't think of anything else.

Also I can't stress enough the use of a proper knock sensor, a functioning maf, and a good tps. Without knowing these are all good you will spend WAY too much time trouble shooting for no reason.

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11-19-2014, 01:12 AM	#25
ProjectSQ Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Jacksonville NC Age: 34 Posts: 38 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Alright let's leave the guy alone. I mean Clair Patterson was a clean freak but if it wasn't for him we would still be using lead supplemented gasoline and poisoning ourselves. (Thank you The Cosmos) On the topic of clearances I'm pretty certain that the gap was the issue. I was referring to inches so 0.0025" and 0.0005 beyond the fsm's limit. Also contributing the possibility the bearings wore in slightly increasing that clearance and the shitty oil that was ready for a change. (Like I said I was right around the 500 mile engine break in oil change). all that together could have been the cause and I hope that's all it is. I agree we should gather up some silly facts for those wanting to learn. For example I will never use the tube of RTV that came with my oem gasket set. It cured way too fast and became "crumbly" where as the black RTV from advance or oreillys works great. Also with metal head gaskets be sure to get copper gasket adhesive (I think that's what it's called). Always spend money on new oem (or equal quality) oil pumps, water pumps, timing chains, and timing chain tensioners. BEFORE TRYING TO BUY SOME SILLY PERFORMANCE PART! (No point in upgrading when your engine's foundation is weak). I can't think of anything else. Also I can't stress enough the use of a proper knock sensor, a functioning maf, and a good tps. Without knowing these are all good you will spend WAY too much time trouble shooting for no reason.