Name that sound!!! - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

ProjectSQ · 11-19-2014, 01:12 AM

Alright let's leave the guy alone. I mean Clair Patterson was a clean freak but if it wasn't for him we would still be using lead supplemented gasoline and poisoning ourselves. (Thank you The Cosmos)

On the topic of clearances I'm pretty certain that the gap was the issue. I was referring to inches so 0.0025" and 0.0005 beyond the fsm's limit. Also contributing the possibility the bearings wore in slightly increasing that clearance and the shitty oil that was ready for a change. (Like I said I was right around the 500 mile engine break in oil change). all that together could have been the cause and I hope that's all it is.

I agree we should gather up some silly facts for those wanting to learn. For example I will never use the tube of RTV that came with my oem gasket set. It cured way too fast and became "crumbly" where as the black RTV from advance or oreillys works great. Also with metal head gaskets be sure to get copper gasket adhesive (I think that's what it's called). Always spend money on new oem (or equal quality) oil pumps, water pumps, timing chains, and timing chain tensioners. BEFORE TRYING TO BUY SOME SILLY PERFORMANCE PART! (No point in upgrading when your engine's foundation is weak). I can't think of anything else.

Also I can't stress enough the use of a proper knock sensor, a functioning maf, and a good tps. Without knowing these are all good you will spend WAY too much time trouble shooting for no reason.

DJ 21o3 · 11-20-2014, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ProjectSQ

(Like I said I was right around the 500 mile engine break in oil change)

Did you change the oil at all after its first fire up or did you actually go 500 miles on the same oil before first fire?

Also not really relevant to the rod knock but what was your break in procedure? Run it hard or baby it?

Standard · 11-21-2014, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJ 21o3

Did you change the oil at all after its first fire up or did you actually go 500 miles on the same oil before first fire?

Also not really relevant to the rod knock but what was your break in procedure? Run it hard or baby it?

This is what I was thinking, I was always told to change the oil and filter after the first 30 minutes of run time, then again after 500 miles. Bearing clearances was probably the real issue though.

Good question too though, I've heard not to baby a new engine, but to beat on it a bit right away

ProjectSQ · 11-21-2014, 04:04 AM

Unfortunately I listened to the shop again and actually went nearly 500 miles on initial start up oil. I was only ok with this because: A) the shop said it would be fine fml. B) I couldn't find anymore VR1 10w-40. Normally I've changed the oil right after a heat cycle, again at 50, 500 then at normal 5000 mile intervals. (That's what I get for changing up what has worked)

When it comes to piston wall break-in you actually want a more aggressive approach. Whet I've done and have had solid compression numbers is for several miles even some times after first drive I would be on a long stretch and vary my speed around 20 or so mph putting load on the engine then full engine decel. This helps "seat" new piston rings to the cylinder walls.

11-19-2014, 01:12 AM	#1
ProjectSQ Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Jacksonville NC Age: 34 Posts: 38 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Alright let's leave the guy alone. I mean Clair Patterson was a clean freak but if it wasn't for him we would still be using lead supplemented gasoline and poisoning ourselves. (Thank you The Cosmos) On the topic of clearances I'm pretty certain that the gap was the issue. I was referring to inches so 0.0025" and 0.0005 beyond the fsm's limit. Also contributing the possibility the bearings wore in slightly increasing that clearance and the shitty oil that was ready for a change. (Like I said I was right around the 500 mile engine break in oil change). all that together could have been the cause and I hope that's all it is. I agree we should gather up some silly facts for those wanting to learn. For example I will never use the tube of RTV that came with my oem gasket set. It cured way too fast and became "crumbly" where as the black RTV from advance or oreillys works great. Also with metal head gaskets be sure to get copper gasket adhesive (I think that's what it's called). Always spend money on new oem (or equal quality) oil pumps, water pumps, timing chains, and timing chain tensioners. BEFORE TRYING TO BUY SOME SILLY PERFORMANCE PART! (No point in upgrading when your engine's foundation is weak). I can't think of anything else. Also I can't stress enough the use of a proper knock sensor, a functioning maf, and a good tps. Without knowing these are all good you will spend WAY too much time trouble shooting for no reason.

11-21-2014, 04:04 AM	#4
ProjectSQ Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Jacksonville NC Age: 34 Posts: 38 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Unfortunately I listened to the shop again and actually went nearly 500 miles on initial start up oil. I was only ok with this because: A) the shop said it would be fine fml. B) I couldn't find anymore VR1 10w-40. Normally I've changed the oil right after a heat cycle, again at 50, 500 then at normal 5000 mile intervals. (That's what I get for changing up what has worked) When it comes to piston wall break-in you actually want a more aggressive approach. Whet I've done and have had solid compression numbers is for several miles even some times after first drive I would be on a long stretch and vary my speed around 20 or so mph putting load on the engine then full engine decel. This helps "seat" new piston rings to the cylinder walls.