Power Steering+AN Lines + Cooler=Good times!

[codyace]

Originally Posted by MadScientist

I have been looking to do this... I also want to do the 2 smaller hardlines on the back of the rack... any info on these???

-Drew

I didn't bother with the hardlines on the rack itself...figured they don't leak, and I'll never need to take them off either. Now the metal 'cooling' tube (goes in front of the crossmember) I did delete with the power steering cooler.

Another thing for those doing this:
While the crush washer is meant to be the main seal where the fittings thread into the block, it's not a bad idea to also use some Hydraulic/ATF safe thread sealent there as well.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ad_Sealant.htm

I use that on many jobs and never have an issue with them sealing.

[Prime]

The only thing I hate about the whole AN setup for p/s is the damn hose ends... no one makes steel ends in black, and you're not supposed to use the aluminum ones on the high pressure lines. Don't want chrome or that red/blue either. But oh well. Nice set-up, regardless.

[travypoo]

wonder if it is ok to use the pump -6 male alumn fitting and high pressure rack alumn -6 an fitting with steel female hose ends...seems thats what the orignal poster did.

[japslapsilvia]

Originally Posted by travypoo

wonder if it is ok to use the pump -6 male alumn fitting and high pressure rack alumn -6 an fitting with steel female hose ends...seems thats what the orignal poster did.

the alum fitting for the pump and rack are fine.

the reason for the steel ends if bc the high pressure hose is differnt from typical braided SS hose.

been running this set-up in a buddys car for quite some time w/o any issues.

[Prime]

I think the fittings are fine for whatever reason, but the hose ends aren't. I guess something to do with the pressure needed to keep the hose from slipping would gall the aluminum? Someone more experienced with the concept might know. I was just told "No." by the parts guy. The steel ends were cheaper too, so he wasn't just trying to get extra coin.

[Danial]

What sized AN is on the return hose on the rack side when the hose is about to go up to the reservoir from the rack?
Also, anyone know what the best hose clamps are, there's so many options, looking for screw tightened I think

[thefro526]

Originally Posted by Danial

What sized AN is on the return hose on the rack side when the hose is about to go up to the reservoir from the rack?
Also, anyone know what the best hose clamps are, there's so many options, looking for screw tightened I think

-6AN (3/8" hose) is what most PS set ups use for the low pressure (rack return) line, assuming that's what you're asking.

OP, thanks for making this thread, it was extremely useful when I was buying my AN lines for my PS setup. Owe you one bro.

[shaggy sr]

nice setup!!! ill do it insread of buying CB parts

[Firestorm]

did anyone else notice that the o-ringed fitting for the return line threads all the way into the rack and doesnt seal at the o-ring?

[OLDSCHOOLRICE]

Originally Posted by Firestorm

did anyone else notice that the o-ringed fitting for the return line threads all the way into the rack and doesnt seal at the o-ring?

+1 on this and the outer surface isn't flush so a crush washer won't seal.

What's the solution(other than just thread sealant)?

[PeaceOnesxWai]

+1!!

Good write up, im currently changing almost everything to an lines. How much PSI do you think the PS hoses run? Im using BMRS lines throughout already but their line up only has hoses rated to 500psi


Also more pics with the cooler installed and lines to the rack??

[godzilla_753]

So I went with the op's setup and now my line is leaking at the high pressure fitting going into the rack. Anyone have a solution to this? Its leaking more specifically at the 14mm to -6 adapter, I think its leaking because the threads are so short, only threads in half of what the original hard line there does. Anyone know what I can do to get it to stop leaking?

[Danial]

Originally Posted by godzilla_753

So I went with the op's setup and now my line is leaking at the high pressure fitting going into the rack. Anyone have a solution to this? Its leaking more specifically at the 14mm to -6 adapter, I think its leaking because the threads are so short, only threads in half of what the original hard line there does. Anyone know what I can do to get it to stop leaking?

I remember I used teflon tape on the threads of my setup, there are lots of thread sealers you could use for a tighter fit

Also make sure that there isn't any pressure being exerted on the fitting, your line shouldn't pull or by tight at all. Try rearranging the geometry of your angled fittings to adjust this

just my 2cents

[godzilla_753]

good suggestion, Ill give it a go, but I went ahead and ordered a 3/8 to -6 adapter just in case, its only 5 bucks from jegs. If the readjusting doesnt work Im going to just put the hardline portion back into the rack, cut the end off and throw on the adapter to -6.

EDIT: crap just realized those fittings are only good to 50psi, the hose sees way more than that I assume...

[godzilla_753]

Since the ps line on a stock s13 goes
RACK-->Hardline-->soft PS hose with sensor-->PS pump

Could I just put the stock hardline back in, convert from hardline to -6 with this and be good to go? (it says its for fuel system only...)

Earl's 9894DBH Earl's Fuel Injection Female O-Ring Seals

That fucking fitting is leaking like a stuck pig, and I dont want to torque it down any harder, Im afraid of stipping the threads. Tried the teflon tape and readjusting the fitting with no luck. The real problem is that the fitting is so short it only threads in half of what the original hardline did, doesn't seal against the tapered inside of the rack.

Shoulda just bought a fucking premade line from chasebays or something.

[slw240sx]

I have run into a few racks that leak using the earls fitting. My solution was to put another earls or other brand part to seal. They are called STAT O Seals. They are aluminum washers with a bonded rubber o ring on the ID of the washer. they are used to seal where crusher washer wont quite work.

[Skilz10179]

Anyone using the Chase Bays kit? I've had it sitting here for about 6 months but had too many other projects going on to install it. It doesn't come with a cooler but it would be very simple to add one...

Chase Bays Power Steering Kit for Nissan 240sx - Nissan 240sx - ChaseBays.com

[NismoPlsr]

For anyone having sealing problems with the high pressure rack fitting the issues seems to be with the Earls adapter fittings being too short and the o-ring not seating in the rack. A couple other companies sell longer fittings.

Originally Posted by 2iv0 sx

^Yes those look longer than what I have. The brass one looks right. Thanks Firestorm for the link

I'm going to give these fittings a try and will update what happens...

Flaming River FRM14X6AN - Flaming River Power Steering Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com


Allstar Performance ALL48211 - Allstar Performance Power Steering Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com

If theres any other solutions PLEASE contribute

Details in this thread.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/201523...s-leaking.html

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by NismoPlsr

For anyone having sealing problems with the high pressure rack fitting the issues seems to be with the Earls adapter fittings being too short and the o-ring not seating in the rack. A couple other companies sell longer fittings.



Details in this thread.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/201523...s-leaking.html

I'll bump this thread with my info...
I just contacted both All Star and Flaming River. Both are too short to reach the bottom of the rack on the high pressure side. All Star is .740" and the Flaming River fitting is .840". OEM is .969".

[Danial]

Originally Posted by Beejis60

I'll bump this thread with my info...
I just contacted both All Star and Flaming River. Both are too short to reach the bottom of the rack on the high pressure side. All Star is .740" and the Flaming River fitting is .840". OEM is .969".

This seems to suggest to me that maybe this modification should be altered to have this fitting welded in place? Or that the Earls fitting be welded to the screw in end of the OEM? Obviously you would need to be very for the latter of the two to line them up correctly before you TIG

Are both the rack and fitting steel?

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by Danial

This seems to suggest to me that maybe this modification should be altered to have this fitting welded in place? Or that the Earls fitting be welded to the screw in end of the OEM? Obviously you would need to be very for the latter of the two to line them up correctly before you TIG

Are both the rack and fitting steel?

Well, my measurement of the OEM fitting was from the seat to the hex head; after threading in my OEM fitting again last night to measure the total thread depth and not total fitting length, it appears to be just around .800 to .820 on the high pressure side. One MAY be able to use the Flaming River fitting if they ran a die over it to thread all the way up to the hex head.
As for weld-ons, Earls has alum, steel, and stainless; OEM box is steel. Additionally, the steel weld-on bung is only $4. I would weld it in a glove bag back-purged with argon though, just in case.

[Danial]

^^ Excellent info, +1

if someone tries it please post up your results, i'd love to see it

[Mr.J]

Originally Posted by Danial

This seems to suggest to me that maybe this modification should be altered to have this fitting welded in place? Or that the Earls fitting be welded to the screw in end of the OEM? Obviously you would need to be very for the latter of the two to line them up correctly before you TIG

Are both the rack and fitting steel?

What about just removing a little material from the top of the rack house so that the AN fitting seal properly?

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by Mr.J

What about just removing a little material from the top of the rack house so that the AN fitting seal properly?

Though there is certainly nothing wrong with this approach, it is easier said than done. To remove it to be 100% flush, or even close to that, you will need to set it in a vise, whether for machining or for hand-grinding; and there is no good surface to clamp to for using a mill. You may be able to clamp on to the outlet/inlet ports that feed to the crossover, but then, you will need to remove material by hand since it will be out of tram with the mill.

[Mr.J]

Good point. I may try using some sealant in the interim just to get my car operational.

I saw this on another thread last night when I was researching the fittings.

Originally Posted by Georgiy Stepanyan

Steering rack, fittings for power steering

[onehundredoctane]

^Need more info on those, my twin wastegate dump tubes barely clear the area for the fittings that go into the rack. These fittings would work GREAT for me!

[Mr.J]

Originally Posted by onehundredoctane

^Need more info on those, my twin wastegate dump tubes barely clear the area for the fittings that go into the rack. These fittings would work GREAT for me!

Unfortunately, there was no info given on these fittings in the post. Maybe you could reach out to the OP for more info.

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by Mr.J

Good point. I may try using some sealant in the interim just to get my car operational.

I saw this on another thread last night when I was researching the fittings.

Looks like they milled the face off quite a bit, likely to get that banjo to work. I've never seen a very long banjo bolt to fit this application, though I did not really look too closely. I still see a copper crush washer, which I do not trust and banjos will never seat in the PS box properly. Moreover, I wouldn't trust to use thread dope or thread sealant since that's a banjo fitting.... Basically, your sealing comes from a crush washer. No thanks

[Beejis60]

I got in my Fueled Racing stuff the other day. All they do is buy the Fragola PS fittings and turn them on the lathe to knock down the hex head a bit. Installed, they don't even come close to the hex when fully tight. I feel pretty certain that these will not leak:

[rbs14kouki]

Originally Posted by Beejis60

I got in my Fueled Racing stuff the other day. All they do is buy the Fragola PS fittings and turn them on the lathe to knock down the hex head a bit. Installed, they don't even come close to the hex when fully tight. I feel pretty certain that these will not leak:

Somebody as a link to where i could get those fueled racing fitingor the fragola and i would turn them on the lathe my self.

I Just cant find one long enough !?!?