Motor mount removal and installation? - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

PhR0Z3N_PhL4M3 · 08-08-2006, 07:34 PM

How the heck do you get the old motor mounts off? I've checked the FSM and couldnt find anything bout it, thanks for your help

andrew

mmdb · 08-08-2006, 07:46 PM

simply put:
1. jack up the front of the car
2. loosen the subframe bolts (do no drop the subframe)
3. unscrew motor mount
4. remove/replace

for more indepth explanation do a search.

boosteds13 · 08-08-2006, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mmdb

simply put:
1. jack up the front of the car
2. loosen the subframe bolts (do no drop the subframe)
3. unscrew motor mount
4. remove/replace

for more indepth explanation do a search.

Provided they aren't stuck on there.

We had to battle with mine for over 5 hours just to get the driver's side mount off the crossmember. The nut ended up rounding off. We used a hacksaw, torch, drill, angle grinder, prybar, and one of those nuts that has the reverse threaded teeth.

g6civcx · 08-08-2006, 08:09 PM

The mounting nuts are 14mm. The heat shield nut is 12mm. It's best to use 6-point deep well sockets. 6-point grips better than 12 without stripping.

Remove both front wheels and put the front end on jackstands. It will help you with clearance.

Spray PB Blaster liberally on the nuts and let it soak overnight. Tap lightly with a hammer to induce vibration and let the penetrant soak in.

The nut on the bottom can be access with a 12" extension. I used my 6" extension and both of my 3" extensions.

If you have problems, use a breaker bar and gently work it.

The 12mm nut won't be a problem. Just use an extension and put a breaker bar on the ratchet.

The top 14mm nut may be a problem. You'll need to use a wrench since the bracket won't allow you to use a ratchet. It's not bad though.

A trick you can use is slide your 14mm wrench on, and then use a bigger wrench as a cheater bar and slip it over the open end of the wrench. Play with it and you'll know the orientation.

Big tip for you. If you're using Nismo mounts, the studs on them are slightly longer than stock, maybe 1/2" or so. I wasn't able to lift the motor high enough so I removed the bracket on the motor. The bracket is held on by 4 14mm bolts. I was then able to slip the mount in and bolt the bracket back on to the motor. You can see this in the pictures in the link.

I used the bellhousing to lift the motor. The link uses pieces of wood on the a/c and alternator brackets. Others use different points, but I prefer the bellhousing.

Just take your time. It's best to do the exhaust side the turbo is out. You can't even see it with the motor in. On the intake side, it helps if you remove the oil filter and the intake manifold support bracket(s).

http://importnut.net/nismomm.htm

TipStylez · 08-08-2006, 08:24 PM

^Good info, will be using this in a bit.

Thanks
-Q

PhR0Z3N_PhL4M3 · 08-08-2006, 08:40 PM

Ya, problem is they are stuck on like a mofo, like boosteds13... I rounded the nut off and am using a metwrench to try and get it loose, it grabs hold, but wont budge, wasnt sure if the nuts were special or not. thanks tho

g6civcx · 08-09-2006, 05:49 AM

6 point heads on your socket/wrench and a breaker bar in conjunction with PB Blaster.

PhR0Z3N_PhL4M3 · 08-09-2006, 11:05 AM

ya, would work, but there is no room for a cheater pipe, and i've been spraying the snit outa it with liquid wrench... still no go

g6civcx · 08-09-2006, 11:47 AM

Try the big wrench on the little wrench trick I said above. Works when a big pipe doesn't fit.

g6civcx · 08-09-2006, 11:49 AM

Use the big wrench on little wrench trick.

08-08-2006, 07:34 PM	#1
PhR0Z3N_PhL4M3 Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: oklahoma Posts: 18 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Motor mount removal and installation? How the heck do you get the old motor mounts off? I've checked the FSM and couldnt find anything bout it, thanks for your help andrew

08-08-2006, 07:46 PM	#2
mmdb Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: 240sx Posts: 1,558 Trader Rating: (20) Feedback Score: 20 reviews	simply put: 1. jack up the front of the car 2. loosen the subframe bolts (do no drop the subframe) 3. unscrew motor mount 4. remove/replace for more indepth explanation do a search.

08-08-2006, 08:09 PM	#4
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	The mounting nuts are 14mm. The heat shield nut is 12mm. It's best to use 6-point deep well sockets. 6-point grips better than 12 without stripping. Remove both front wheels and put the front end on jackstands. It will help you with clearance. Spray PB Blaster liberally on the nuts and let it soak overnight. Tap lightly with a hammer to induce vibration and let the penetrant soak in. The nut on the bottom can be access with a 12" extension. I used my 6" extension and both of my 3" extensions. If you have problems, use a breaker bar and gently work it. The 12mm nut won't be a problem. Just use an extension and put a breaker bar on the ratchet. The top 14mm nut may be a problem. You'll need to use a wrench since the bracket won't allow you to use a ratchet. It's not bad though. A trick you can use is slide your 14mm wrench on, and then use a bigger wrench as a cheater bar and slip it over the open end of the wrench. Play with it and you'll know the orientation. Big tip for you. If you're using Nismo mounts, the studs on them are slightly longer than stock, maybe 1/2" or so. I wasn't able to lift the motor high enough so I removed the bracket on the motor. The bracket is held on by 4 14mm bolts. I was then able to slip the mount in and bolt the bracket back on to the motor. You can see this in the pictures in the link. I used the bellhousing to lift the motor. The link uses pieces of wood on the a/c and alternator brackets. Others use different points, but I prefer the bellhousing. Just take your time. It's best to do the exhaust side the turbo is out. You can't even see it with the motor in. On the intake side, it helps if you remove the oil filter and the intake manifold support bracket(s). http://importnut.net/nismomm.htm

08-08-2006, 08:24 PM	#5
TipStylez Zilvia Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 918 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	^Good info, will be using this in a bit. Thanks -Q

08-08-2006, 08:40 PM	#6
PhR0Z3N_PhL4M3 Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: oklahoma Posts: 18 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Ya, problem is they are stuck on like a mofo, like boosteds13... I rounded the nut off and am using a metwrench to try and get it loose, it grabs hold, but wont budge, wasnt sure if the nuts were special or not. thanks tho

08-09-2006, 05:49 AM	#7
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	6 point heads on your socket/wrench and a breaker bar in conjunction with PB Blaster.

08-09-2006, 11:05 AM	#8
PhR0Z3N_PhL4M3 Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: oklahoma Posts: 18 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	ya, would work, but there is no room for a cheater pipe, and i've been spraying the snit outa it with liquid wrench... still no go

08-09-2006, 11:47 AM	#9
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Try the big wrench on the little wrench trick I said above. Works when a big pipe doesn't fit.

08-09-2006, 11:49 AM	#10
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Use the big wrench on little wrench trick.