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Old 07-04-2002, 08:50 PM   #1
Natty
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My local shop is gonna hook me up with some display 6.5" DKD Mb Quart speakers for $50. Anyways, I know they will fit an S13 front door panel with some custom wood brackets. But will I have to cut out part of the door car or anything for them to fit?
Also, anyone who is running them, do I really have to amplify them? I can't justify another $200 for an amp just for the front.
Thanks,
Jeff
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Old 07-05-2002, 04:42 AM   #2
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all you iwll have to cut is the wood that you buy.  there is plenty of room for 6.5s up front.
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Old 07-05-2002, 06:14 AM   #3
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Yeah no problem; i ran 6x9 blaupunkts up there for a while;
now I'm trying to fit in a pair of 6's, 4's and tweets...
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Old 07-05-2002, 06:21 AM   #4
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and fuck me, that is a good fucking deal by the way.
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Old 07-05-2002, 02:12 PM   #5
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I have the DKD 4x6's in the back and RSC 216 comps up front. The DKD's are nice, but not even close to the reference or Q series. but for $50 you can't go wrong. I am assuming your getting the 116's. They handle from 50-120 watts. They do not require an amp, but would sound about 100% better with one. a small 200watt 2 channel amp would do the trick

btw - use 1/4" material for the baffles.  It fits much better than the 1/2" stuff under the door liner, and you can use the orig screws.



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Old 07-05-2002, 02:35 PM   #6
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If you need an amp i can sell you a Power Acoustik sp2x-300 which is 70wx2 at 4ohms or 85wx2 at 2ohms  bridged is 300w max.  it has built in crossover with bass boost.  it is still in the box and never been used.  i just never got around to putting it in.  it is one that has the clear top with blue neon inside.  I will sell it to you for 100 plus shipping  if interested.
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Old 07-05-2002, 02:50 PM   #7
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (sykikchimp @ July 04 2002,4:12)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">btw - use 1/4" material for the baffles. It fits much better than the 1/2" stuff under the door liner, and you can use the orig screws.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
That was my next question, what size lumber do I need to pick up &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/hehe.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':hehe:'>
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Old 07-05-2002, 06:42 PM   #8
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (nissan's_fury @ July 05 2002,3:35)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">If you need an amp i can sell you a Power Acoustik sp2x-300 which is 70wx2 at 4ohms or 85wx2 at 2ohms bridged is 300w max. it has built in crossover with bass boost. it is still in the box and never been used. i just never got around to putting it in. it is one that has the clear top with blue neon inside. I will sell it to you for 100 plus shipping if interested.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
wow, a $30 savings &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/hmmm.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':hmmm:'>
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Old 07-05-2002, 09:42 PM   #9
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If I did buy a small amp for the 6.5", like a 2 channel, how much power should I get for each channel? Then I could use my 45x4 Head to power my rears. Where would I hide a small amp up front? Who even makes a small one?
Jeff
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Old 07-06-2002, 06:11 AM   #10
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I would get a 2 channel with an RMS near the RMS of the speakers. &nbsp;Just turn down the bass up front, cuz wood baffeling + an amp will mean your speakers will start saying "I love you" too.
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Old 07-06-2002, 08:55 PM   #11
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (rancid240 @ July 06 2002,07:11)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I would get a 2 channel with an RMS near the RMS of the speakers. Just turn down the bass up front, cuz wood baffeling + an amp will mean your speakers will start saying "I love you" too.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
No disrespect and all...

Most people really into it will say (me included) to get as high a RMS value you can while maintaining a low THD value; keep your gains low and you'll never clip your amp (which is the surest way to ruin a driver). If u want a great bargain I suggest US acoustics; I'm running one right now and it produces cleaner mids and highs then my friggin' fosgate.

Oh, and wood baffling will not resonate if that's what you're suggesting, and certainly not at the power he's likely to be pushing (that's why we use it in pretty much every enclosure application including highs and subs.)

Oh, good call on the 2 channel; definately stay away from bridging a 4 channel into 2 because your THD will shoot thru the roof.



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Old 07-07-2002, 06:42 AM   #12
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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">No disrespect and all...</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

None taken. &nbsp;I just like to stick to that rule though. I had a pair of infinity components up front running off of a 4 channel (which also powered speakers on the rear deck) &nbsp;and it rattled (resonated?) so bad i had to take them off. &nbsp;oh well...i found some silvia panels with holes for tweeters and i plan on bringing them back (there the panels above your door panels)
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Old 07-08-2002, 09:15 AM   #13
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I agree US Acoustics makes awesome amps. &nbsp;If your worried about resonation, get some dynamat, or brown bread, or mmats dampening material.
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Old 07-09-2002, 11:06 AM   #14
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I made my own pods out of 3/4" MDF and 1/4" grills. I have 6 1/2" Cadence ZXN6K's and 5 1/4" in the doors. I had to cut the door panels and doors, but it was worth it and they sound great!

240 Door pod pics
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