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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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Remove Heater Core or Keep it???
Well, I'm in the process of relocating my engine bay harness to under the dash and running just the nessary wires out to the engine bay. Then I thought to myself, this would be a lot easier if the heater core, blower motor,ect. were gone.
I live in Buffalo, NY. but its only going to be driven in the summer (probally from april to setember) and will also be in a garage over night. I could care less if I had heat but I'm just wonderin if its going to be a pain in the ass if I have to defrost and I can't do it. Does anyone know how much the heater core, blower motor, etc. weight??? So tell me what you think.....keep it or lose it. Thanks |
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#2 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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If it is in a garage, you can get away with it, but if you park it on the street then you won't be able to defrost it very well. They only weigh about 10 lbs each.
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#3 |
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Are your plans running the wires through the firewall where the heator goes through?
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#4 |
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Yea it will be in the garage 99% of the time. During the time frame im going to have the car on the road, I don't think its going to get that cold for me to have to defrost, if I leave the car outside. I guess I can always put it back in if its being a pain.
My plans were just to have a really clean engine bay, I yanked the entire harness into the cabin and I'm going to extend the 15 or so plugs back into the engine bay using the fender hole on the passenger side and make sure those wires are hidden. Not having the heater core and all that there, will make this WAY easier. |
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#6 | |
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I pulled my heater core and a/c and everything out on the new build. Its sooo much nicer now there is lots of room under the dash to run wires and acc. My car is driven 5 days a week to work and then to and from the track but its only 10-15 min to work so it doesnt really bother me. I would be curious about the race application defroster? I havnt started driving yet and I worry about the window getting fog'd up in the winter even though its just socal and it never gets that cold. Let me know any info on these setups. otherwise I figured I would just run fog-x found these and similar items might be able to mount 2 of them below the dash defroster vents and then wire them into a dash switch should defrost and solve the problem. plus they are lightwieght heaters if you are worried about getting cold. |
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#7 |
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Yea im definately gonna take everything out now. It's like appox. 30 pounds too, nice weight savings. I can always put it back in if want. Thanks everyone for your input.
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#8 |
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I wonder if there is a compact electric heater core/ blower that could be rigged for de-frost/ some bit of heat. IIRC I remeber seeing something in a hot rod resto catalauge.
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#9 |
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brainfood- yes, it is pretty anoying even in socal. I'm in socal and my heater core is just disconnected because it started to leak and needs to be replaced.
Its embarasing coming out of the movies at midnight with a date and having to wipe the windshield. Just the body heat inside and the cold outside seems to cause fogged windows... Not a HUGE deal, but if you can keep it, i would.....even in socal. |
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#10 |
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buffalo, ny
this is not a good idea i live relatively nearby. nyc area. weather is worse up by you iirc. 240sx gets shitty airflow even with the windows down and your windshield will fog before you take it out, try driving the next few weeks without using any climate control ish, during the rain. its not pleasant. its embarassing meeting up with friends with your left arm soaking wet and you can forget about girls sitting in your car! even the cool ones who tolerate harsh ride, noisy interior and dirty seats won't stand for wet hair and wet clothes. |
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#11 |
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Remove for the bulk of the rewiring, but reinstall when the bulk of rewiring is done. Keep the heater core for the sake of defogging your front window. Gut the evaporator core and reinstall the empty box to be used for ducting from the blower motor into the heater core. Use duct tape to cover both sides of the holes left from the misssing evaporator core.
Of course...you can always just gut the heater and evaporator cores and use rainx defog on the inside of your windows regularly. If you care about air circulation...find a way to rig some ducting underneath the dash to keep air flowing through the ventilation.
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#12 |
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i tried the rain-x anti fog
was clear after application became weird and foggy after 2 weeks, not just in rain, but even in dry weather we had to go to town on it with a ton of windex and alot of elbow grease would not do that again |
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#13 |
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Rayne I really like your idea. All of my heater core ducting is gone already except for the defrost part. So that gives me some more room. I'm gonna leave out the Evaporator and rig up a duct to connect the blower motor and the heater core, and that will give me more room for wiring.
Thanks for the idea. I'm a idiot and didn't even think of the raining while driving problem. aznpoopy - hahaha very true |
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#14 |
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i took both my heater core, ac box, and blower motor out of my coupe, then i disasembled the heater core box and actually took the radiator core out and plugged it back into the stock location with no heater box or anything i used a motocycle fan with an on/off toggle switch thats enough warm air for me LOL seems to work great right now and plus its a lot lighter too!
-Gleb
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#15 |
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aznpoopy- The catch with anti-fog treatments is the fact that you have to reapply the product on a regular basis or it become foggy. Swim google companies like Speedo and TYR have been using anti-fog chemicals on there googles for years. However the swimmers have to re apply an anti-fog product after every swim session or swim meet just to keep the googles from fogging up later.
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For a street car, I recommend you have at least a heater for defrosting purposes, but it's your choice.
If you do choose to delete the heater core, remember to route the heater hose nipples on the engine. Don't just cap them off because you may have reduced flow. Protip: saliva protects goggles the best. Learned that from the swim coach at my college. |
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#18 |
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aznpoopy said it best. search back a couple years, i was one of the few driving around an s13 with nothing it but 2 seats and a motor. pretty much a shell that moved.
ive driven through rain to go to the track (buttonwillow) about 2 hours away, it wasnt fun. you pretty much need to drive with some extra rags, periodically drying off the inner windshield when it condensates. that was with my girlfriend at the time. now, shes my wife - and thats one of the reasons i married her. :-) water will run in through the windows, and theres pretty much no way to keep the car from condensating. i mean, i had no carpet or any fabric in the car.. so it was one big cold pile of metal. rain-x was the biggest waste of shit ever, it did nothing.. absolutely nothing to help. i mean, you are seriously beyond rain-x. you need heat-x. moreso, you need some type of de-humidifyer.. like air conditioning to dehumidify the cabin. |
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http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/mojave-heater.html
Here's what I am thinking of running in my project car, make a plenum box to run into the stock ducting so you can use the oem defrost/ dash vents, and strip everything not needed.
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#20 | |
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Sure.....I made a mistake....I know I am not the only person on this forum to miss spell a word or two every once in a while. To whom ever reading my last post....omit one "O" in the word Google and googles. I miss spelled the word Goggle and Goggles. ThatGuy, thank you for pointing my error out to me.
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So, you proudly display that you have a medical condition in your signature? What's next? "Hey everybody I'm a hemmorroid creme user" Signatures?
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