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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars


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Old 02-19-2007, 11:42 PM   #1
C. Senor
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you know what, go somewhere that can clear the codes, have them clear the codes, or disconnect the battery for a little while and then connect again and drive for like 100 miles....try to drive atleast 50 miles the day you take your car in and dont turn it off..its worth a try...there are some cars that for some reason everytime they are turned off the readiness codes turn off, that could be a possibility also... honestly in some random cars, there's been really severe conditions that takes somewhere north of 500 miles before the codes set, i dont know how much a new ecu for an s14 is, but i think drivin a 100 miles or so would be cheaper....assuming that works.
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:10 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s13coupeluv
you know what, go somewhere that can clear the codes, have them clear the codes, or disconnect the battery for a little while and then connect again and drive for like 100 miles....try to drive atleast 50 miles the day you take your car in and dont turn it off..its worth a try...there are some cars that for some reason everytime they are turned off the readiness codes turn off, that could be a possibility also... honestly in some random cars, there's been really severe conditions that takes somewhere north of 500 miles before the codes set, i dont know how much a new ecu for an s14 is, but i think drivin a 100 miles or so would be cheaper....assuming that works.
wow! don't post advice if you don't know what you're talking about...seriously! Why would you clear the codes? And why would you disconnect the battery? The car will have to go through its monitors ALL over again, which isn't what this dude wants. What he needs is to pass emissions.

One thing to keep in mind is that NOT all the monitors have to pass. YOu are allowed 1 or 2 failed monitors ( i forget exactly how many you can have that haven't passed).

But basically you need to go through the proper drive cycle like previously stated and try and fix whatever issues you are currently having w/ the car.

Also, just b/c the MIL isn't on, doesn't mean that there isn't a DTC.

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Old 02-20-2007, 12:29 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shayrgob240
wow! don't post advice if you don't know what you're talking about...seriously! Why would you clear the codes? And why would you disconnect the battery? The car will have to go through its monitors ALL over again, which isn't what this dude wants. What he needs is to pass emissions.

One thing to keep in mind is that NOT all the monitors have to pass. YOu are allowed 1 or 2 failed monitors ( i forget exactly how many you can have that haven't passed).

But basically you need to go through the proper drive cycle like previously stated and try and fix whatever issues you are currently having w/ the car.

Also, just b/c the MIL isn't on, doesn't mean that there isn't a DTC.

PEace
Well before I ordered this OBD2 USB adapter (which hasn't arrived yet) I took it to AutoZone and scanned it with the cheaper one there. No codes came up. Said all was ok It didn't scan the MIL readiness monitors, however, because it was kind of a ghetto device.
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Old 02-20-2007, 11:03 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shayrgob240
wow! don't post advice if you don't know what you're talking about...seriously! Why would you clear the codes? And why would you disconnect the battery? The car will have to go through its monitors ALL over again, which isn't what this dude wants. What he needs is to pass emissions.

One thing to keep in mind is that NOT all the monitors have to pass. YOu are allowed 1 or 2 failed monitors ( i forget exactly how many you can have that haven't passed).

But basically you need to go through the proper drive cycle like previously stated and try and fix whatever issues you are currently having w/ the car.

Also, just b/c the MIL isn't on, doesn't mean that there isn't a DTC.

PEace

hahaha i dont know what i'm talking about...you should heed your own advice..i work at a smog shop smart ass....i think i know exactly what i'm talking about....i was telling him to reset the codes because sometimes they are fixed by reseting them....you cant just tell him one things will work for every car....you cant tell him the ecu is bad, you cant tell him those sensors are messed up because thats a possibility as well, you cant tell him the wiring went bad to those sensors because that could happen as well, that could be the cause as well....that's why i told him to reset it, disconnecting the battery by the way makes all those readiness sensors reset themselves, yeah a little info for you right there, or clearing all the codes will reset the readiness test not just the engine codes, but i figured maybe resetting the codes and driving, which is what you have to do to set the readiness codes, would be cheaper than doing everything else, and if it didnt work he'd lose like half a day, and IF, remember i said if, it worked he would save money....but that's just advice from some one that "doesnt know what they are talking about." good luck with that od2 reader you bought, i hope you find the problem so you can get your car registered...oh and it depends on the car on how many readiness test he car can have not set to pass, could be anywhere from 1-3, just so you know for next time.....and yes i know that just because the MIL(check engine light) light isnt on it doesnt mean that there isnt a DTC (diagnostic trouble codes for those reading that dont know what those stand for), but you can have a dtc that is continiously being monitored and still be fine, also just so you know...anyways ways long enough school session/rant....like i said earlier hope you find your problem.
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