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Old 02-25-2007, 01:31 AM   #1
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s13 Chassis Modification!!!

well i blew my motor and since i have to wait a while to get a new one i was moveing around some stuff in the engine bay ans stitch welding stuff. i was wondering where people have relocated there fuse boxes ans how to disconnect them from the main harness. looks like i would have to cut and reatach it. any thoughts?



also i was wondering if s13s had plastic trays/splitters under the motor? and if anyone ahs made custom ones out of sheet metal. i am going to do it and just curious what peoples desighns look like. here is an example of what im talking about. i was thing if just using the holes in the subframe to mount it and rivit it to other supports. maby cut some vents in it to drain water.

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Old 02-25-2007, 01:37 AM   #2
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yup, cut and re solder the wires is the route i went. i put my fuse/relay boxes in my glove box. im in the process of finishing it up actually. i moved my charcoal canister to the passenger's side under the alternater as well. shortened the vacuume lines and tucked it away. (my motor is in now) i also have plans to make a skid plate very soon (lowered my car more)

ill get some more pics if youd like

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Old 02-25-2007, 02:09 AM   #3
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ya pics of where you put the wires and how it looks with the motor in would be sweet! and what did you do about the passangers side fusebox jsut lengthen the wires for the 3 or 4 plugs and brought them back through the firewall and to the alternater and tranny harness?
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Old 02-25-2007, 08:34 AM   #4
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The entire underhood harness unplugs inside at the SMJ. No need to cut anything unless you're shortening what you have.
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Old 02-25-2007, 10:15 AM   #5
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there are a couple of threads where a guys have made skid plates out of traffic signs. i cant find the thread but what he did was take a rectangular street sign and bend it in places so that it would fit over the oil pan, drilled holes and bolted it on.
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Old 02-25-2007, 04:57 PM   #6
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i made some brake ducts from roof flashing and poprivets, in my wrx. it comes in a 10 foot roll, it's 22ga(i think) aluminum. and less than $10 at meeks/homedepot/lowes. the whole project used less than 4 linear feet.
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Old 02-25-2007, 05:11 PM   #7
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roof flashing, thats sounds good! and it the plug for the ahrness that big white plastic box with the 10mm bolt on it?
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Old 02-26-2007, 08:07 PM   #8
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Heres some shitty pics of my extremly slow progress... Engines still gotta come out for stich welding and paint. She's along ways from being back together. Pulled both harness' and removed every excess wire I didnt need. Then mounted my fuse/relay's on the bumper support. My front bumper is just held in with zip ties so Im not sweating having to access them.



Tucked

Nothing needed here.

un-needed wirring

The wiring going back in.
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Old 02-26-2007, 08:37 PM   #9
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i hear stitch, spot, and seam welding makes a HUGE difference. i'd love to learn how to and do it myself
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Old 02-26-2007, 08:52 PM   #10
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i like where you put the fuse boxes. i think im going to put the up front somewhere like that. i dont think im going to go through the trouble of buying all that whire and lose the room in my glove box. i will post pics of my progress in a cupple days.
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Old 02-26-2007, 08:56 PM   #11
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Is there any real science behind stich welding, other then knowing how to weld?
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Old 02-26-2007, 09:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
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i like where you put the fuse boxes. i think im going to put the up front somewhere like that. i dont think im going to go through the trouble of buying all that whire and lose the room in my glove box. i will post pics of my progress in a cupple days.
There's no need to buy any wire. 99% of it is actually shortened a good three feet.
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Old 02-26-2007, 09:15 PM   #13
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ohh no $hit! well im going to have to go look at when it stops raining.
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Old 02-26-2007, 09:18 PM   #14
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Yea I like the Idea of having the Fuse Box alot. Seems alot easier.
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Old 02-26-2007, 09:28 PM   #15
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Stitch Welding hard at all but,
1) You have to remove the engine and fenders to get to all the seems
2)Make sure you clean the seams on the strut tower VERY well, that means jacking up the car, takeing the wheels off and grinding that tar stuff off the seams in the inner fender well. Trust me if you it will fuck you up. and make sure the ALL the glue is gone.

Yes it does provide a significant difference
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Old 02-26-2007, 09:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bleach8484
Yea I like the Idea of having the Fuse Box alot. Seems alot easier.
i dont understand what you are saying? we were talking about reloacating the fuse boxes not removeing them.
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Old 02-27-2007, 02:12 AM   #17
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update, it is hailing on my cars ...
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Old 02-27-2007, 12:02 PM   #18
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i use a painless kit
only one fuse box in the interior that works the whole car. relays and all
rear wires are like...10? i forget just not much

going to rip the car apart in the next few weeks adn spot weld it. and then repaint all the interior/engine bay.
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Old 02-27-2007, 12:36 PM   #19
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Relocated and shortened both underhood fuseboxes in mine..moved them into firewall behind glove. My friend is using a painless box like aaron, pretty cool with its own relays etc and less wiring. Nissan bay looks way better w/ all those wires relocated/cut/moved out of sight.

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Old 03-02-2007, 01:32 AM   #20
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so here is whats going on.

before the rebuild
<a href="http://img204.imageshack.us/my.php?image=b4yj6.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/4467/b4yj6.th.jpg" border="0" alt="Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us" /></a>

after the rebuild, then it blew at 2600 mines, damn waterpump
<a href="http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=afterdv2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/5959/afterdv2.th.jpg" border="0" alt="Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us" /></a>
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Old 03-02-2007, 01:34 AM   #21
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pk computer is being stupid i will try agan tomarrow.
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Old 03-02-2007, 09:01 AM   #22
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subscribing. This is good info for my racecar.
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Old 03-03-2007, 12:05 AM   #23
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ok here are some pics that worked. and i was looking at the painless whireing kits, BAD ASS! i might do that in the fiture not on this 240 but deff on my next one i buy.

before the rebuild.

after the rebuild, ya 2600miles then my clutch fan shattered and broke my waterpump and boom. what ever.

And now



q45 upgrade. and new pulleys just for fun. repainted and rebuilt alternator. and powersteering pump.
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Old 03-03-2007, 12:50 AM   #24
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Crapy bird shit welding, wire was like 10 years old and ran out of gas. so im gona buy some gas and new wire after i get back from austraila next month.
rad and intercooler

hello rod


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Old 03-03-2007, 09:47 AM   #25
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where did your buy a rebuild kit for the alternator?
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Old 03-03-2007, 05:07 PM   #26
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because i cannot go buy a brand new sr20det altermator for my car. nad because if i have the time to do it why not. the qusetion is why would you buy a new one for 10 times the amount of money?
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Old 03-03-2007, 09:45 PM   #27
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Quote:
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because i cannot go buy a brand new sr20det altermator for my car. nad because if i have the time to do it why not. the qusetion is why would you buy a new one for 10 times the amount of money?
He asked "where" not "why"

Great thread, keep the pics comin!
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Old 03-31-2007, 03:13 AM   #28
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hay back from australia some crazy nissans. and came back and the firsh thing i did was unpack and called my friends and pet my car. yep i pet it. like rub... anyways i had a bbq with friends and worked on my car some more. i took the fenders off and moved some wires and hammered out some stuff. frames a tiny bit bent so i hammered it a little and im gona go pick my friends welder later today. and go at it. pic time!

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Old 04-06-2007, 01:09 AM   #29
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well i finished welding and painting today. also polished my intake and fuel injecter covers. cleaned out my IACV and put on a new gasket. and started bolting stuff back on.










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