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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars


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Old 04-10-2007, 09:23 AM   #31
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that doesn't make any sense though...I replaced it less than a month ago
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Old 04-10-2007, 10:27 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niSm095
that doesn't make any sense though...I replaced it less than a month ago
I'd bet on this
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I replaced the thermostat with a generic one I found at oreilley's, sealed everything up
being the explanation.

Old proverb, "He who buy cheap thermostat pay twice." OE replacement is what, $12? Nismo is $60-ish, drops temps pretty well in higher performance applications.

Be careful with the sealant, as with threadlock less is more... silicone sealer and coolant does funny things, and could easily stick open an otherwise functioning thermostat. A thin film is all you need to seal the housing...

Edit for fumble fingered typing
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Old 04-10-2007, 10:45 AM   #33
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do you actually have a temp gauge? or by temp gauge do you mean "stock mystery needle that shows the same value between 160 and 220 degrees"
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Old 04-10-2007, 10:50 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niSm095
i was thinking about an expansion tank to match the oil catch can i got from greddy. I haven't mounted the can yet, waiting on my front mount to get here so the SMIC piping is out of the way. what expansion tank did you get?
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Old 04-10-2007, 12:24 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chmercer
do you actually have a temp gauge? or by temp gauge do you mean "stock mystery needle that shows the same value between 160 and 220 degrees"
unfortunatly I mean the latter of the two.

I'm replacing the coolant temp sensors today, If that's not the root of the problem, I found someone who will get me a nismo thermostat for a good price.
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Old 04-13-2007, 10:05 PM   #36
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Okay, so here's what has happened since.

To resolve the issue of the temperature dropping on the interstate, I went to my friend who assisted me in changing the thermometer. We agree that we aren't sure if the thermometer was lined up correctly upon installation, with the floating valve at the top. So we took it apart again tonight, find that it was pointing to 9 o clock when it should have been pointing to 12 o clock. Maybe an issue, maybe it wasn't. I dropped the thermostat on accident, went ahead and bought another just to be on the safe side. Installed it. Refilled coolant, bled the system...

Then, we went to drive around, test it out. As we got on the interstate I noticed the factory needle pointing a little higher than it should have been, and as we got on the interstate it slowly rose more. About 3 exits down the interstate, I got off, and started through some stop lights. At first it cooled a little, then about 1/4 mile down the road it began overheating again.

So we pulled off and opened the hood, checking first for leaks. No leaks whatsoever. Then we notice a bubbling sound from the back of the engine. Easiest way to describe the sound: if you were trying to force air/water through a straw, then bent the straw as it was passing through, there would be a gurgling sound. (In this case, more like hot, bubbling liquid). It sounds like the noise is coming from somewhere along the heater hoses, but it's too dark to see anything.

So now what we're thinking is that perhaps a heater hose is crimped, not allowing enough coolant through at higher speeds, as the engine is working harder, but at idle and low speeds, it doesnt need as much coolant, so the stinted flow of coolant is enough. Is that bizarre? Could that actually be the problem?

Only other option in the system are the temp sensors. And I planned on changing those tonight too, but ran out of daylight to continue working. Now that we heard the bubbling though, it doesn't seem to explain the problem. Although, it did seem to explain the earlier issue of the temperature dropping to cold on the interstate.

Help? Input?
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Old 04-14-2007, 04:04 PM   #37
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anybody?



msglngth
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