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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Leaky Injector
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getting SR20 to 350-400 whp
So here is the deal, I have an S13 with a S13 blacktop SR20. The car used to feel fast for the first month that I was driving it, then I got used to it. I know it hasn't actually slowed down because it is still faster than the cars and bikes I raced when I first swapped it in. It has a built head with stock cams, stock bottom end, big FMIC, 3" turbo back exhaust, ect. (I’ll post the full list). I want to know some tried and true steps to make over 350 whp without too much boost (below 25psi). I plan on using a power FC for E/M. I would like to use the manifold it has on it (done a lot of custom work to it), but I could change it if need to.
I was looking at GT2871R's but haven't found any dyno graphs of them clearing 350hp. I know I don't want some huge turbo if I can get away with it. Basically, If you guys could list all the parts I would need (inj. size, turbo, ect.) to make a setup that can put down the numbers I am looking for that would be awesome. Engine mods: Engine: ’94 Blacktop SR20DET from 180sx XS Power turbo manifold (highly modified) XS Power turbo extension Crower Valve springs Crower Titanium Valve spring retainers Exedy stage one clutch Greddy V-SPL front mount intercooler Greddy aluminum oil pan Cometic headgasket (1.2mm I believe) New exhaust valve guides New valve seals Valve grind Ported head Head surfaced HKS SSQV blow off valve Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump 300zx fuel filter Manual boost controller ARP head studs TC Sportline rocker arm stoppers Megan racing 3” flex down-pipe Megan racing 3” test pipe Motoria 3” cat-back exhaust Thanks for the help! |
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#4 |
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yep i agree with these guys...740injectors, 255lph fuel pump, enthalpy rom tune, act clutch and get yourself a wideband while youre at it and you should be golden
and oh yeah spend the extra $$ and get yourself a good tune |
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#8 | |
Post Whore!
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Quote:
sound like your going economical Now on turbo choice, i would go top mout, 38mm tial wg, use the manual BC, use a .48 ar turbin housing t3 with a 50 trim t4 compressor wheel, stage 3 turbine wheel, to4e housing. Cams will be a must, go 264 step II. hks or stage 3 brian crower the setup changes i suggest will give you a solid powerband from 4k-7800rpms if you wanted. I suggest Power FC for your EMS and have someone else tune it who knows what they are doing. Get the kit with the Map sensor if you can. cheers.
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#9 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Now on turbo choice, i would go top mout, 38mm tial wg, use the manual BC, use a .48 ar turbin housing t3 with a 50 trim t4 compressor wheel, stage 3 turbine wheel, to4e housing.
i cant wait steve haha but yea i was gonna say pretty much what steve did say.... if your gonna invest this much in a build FUCK XS POWER get something else
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#10 |
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my set up was:
s14 sr20 stock internals T3/to4e 57 trim .63 a/r stage 3 wheel vband exit custom made top mount mani ssautochrome 38mm wastegate deatschwerks 740cc injectors walbro 255lph fp fmic z32 Maf HKS filter enthalpy rom tune mild head work, port and polish rebuilt block hallman mbc making 350rwhp at 17psi |
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#11 |
Leaky Injector
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I did lots of welding, smoothing, and bracing to that manifold to make it look decent enough to install. As for engine management I was planning on going to a power FC and having it tuned by a well-known shop around where I live.
Top mounts look bad ass, but I am worried about the heat by the brake master cylinder. It gets hot mow and I have a ceramic-coated shield between it and the manifold. I don't mind if I fry the clutch, I assume it will happen very soon if I can get that power. The MAF will depend if I go to a MAP setup So basically it looks like I need **740cc inj. **Possibly a Z32 MAF **Manifold (depending on turbo)... I think I would like to stay bottom mount if I could fit it. Thoughts? **Turbo. Lots of options it looks like. I am not all that hardcore into compressor maps and stuff so I am a little lost on this stuff, even though it is the most important. ** W/G depending on turbo. I also think I may want to stay internal if at all possible ** Power FC ** Cams.. What would the stock ones limit me around? So I see like $3,500-$4,500 and some extra. What would you estimate? Am I going a little overboard that I just want something that just feels really fast? To the people that are around this power, do you like it? Would you want more? Or is it about right? Thanks so much for the ongoing help guys! |
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#12 |
Nissanaholic!
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you WILL need a z32maf. more then likely a differant clutch. top mount(suggested), gt2871r at the smallest i would suggest a gt30XXR, if you go topmount go to external WG and open dump(if you can get away with it in your area)
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#14 |
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HKS GT-RS if you want to buy an overpriced turbo....
to the OP keep your eye on the forsale pages...i just sold my t3 and 740injectors for $600 you can get pretty good deals if you keep an eye out...i got more turbo stuff fs if your interested ![]() |
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#15 |
Zilvia Addict
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stock manifold.
gt2871r .64 z32 maf 740cc injectors (deatschworks are cheap) jwt s3 cams tomei or apexi hg. not cosmetic. arp headstuds are ok at 80ft lb as recommended earlier enthalpy tune now if you want 400whp then get the greddy intake manifold good torque, good powerband and great reliability Edit:Steve, what is your reasoning for always going top mount the t3/t4 50 trim? gt2871r spools up sooner and can retain stock manifolds and everything and still make decent power. This is by no means a jab at you, I just always see you recommend it on here and also on freshalloy. Pm me if you dont want to clutter up the thread. |
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#16 |
Leaky Injector
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Well, the MAF depends if I go to a MAP setup with the power FC. I necessarily want 400hp just 350 and above. If going top mount would end up costing me an extra 2 grand for not that much power it wouldn't be worth it to me. although on the other hand, A better manifold wouldn't be a bad idea.
Lets say on a budget of $4k what could I Assembly and make good power on my stock bottom end. Keep in mind I would run lower boost just driving around and I don't want to blow my bottom end up the first month by way over working it. |
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#18 |
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I just so happen to have a T3/To4e AR .60 exhaust .63, stage 3 wheel, top mount manifold custom made to pull the turbo further away from brake booster and master cylinder and also clear S14 stuff like I have installed on my S13, TiAL 38mm and Q45 MAF. It's all at a FRACTION of your estimates bro. I'll take 1300 plus actual shipping. All stuff is brand new, 0 miles. Came upon some rough financial times and I've had to abandon the project for now.
here is a link. http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=144821 PM me if interested. Last edited by DOOK; 05-25-2007 at 10:26 AM.. |
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#20 |
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been sitting since november
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#21 |
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thats a go... and its a pretty good deal too all you need is a downpipe.... thats a similar setup to what steve recommended just slightly larger... it might be a LITTLE more laggy but not undriveable I say DO IT
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#22 | |
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#23 |
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gt2871r .64 will hit 350whp, some have hit 400whp (codyace). You can stay bottom mount and you will have full boost by 3500rpm
as everyone else said, wideband, 740cc injectors, z32 maf if going maf, rom tune if not going standalone, and a good set of cams |
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#24 |
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Haha caught me while I was editing. I don't have the loot right now man AND the exact turbo I want (the one Steve mentioned above) one of my buddies is holding for me.
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#25 |
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I'm not picky about buyers, either of you can get it haha
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#26 |
Leaky Injector
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^^ thinking about it. I just dont know a ton about turbos, so I am waiting to hear what all those seasoned vets. on here have to say. How much did you pay for all that? if you don't mind me asking. It would be fun!
I was also thinking about a 3071R with a t2 housing (i heared they made it) |
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#28 | |
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#29 |
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are you talking to me?
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#30 |
Leaky Injector
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anyway, I think I may be loosing my mind. Now I am seriously considering pulling the engine and rebuilding the bottom end with forged pistons and new rods. I just noticed my front main seal is leaking a little, and I'm burning oil I figure out the rear turbo seal.
I don't know, the current bottom end gives me perfect comp. and 2% or 3% leak down on each cyl. (all the same). Would it be worth it to build it up? should I just say f it all and go to an rb25? I am questioning everything now. I need some encouragement so I just don't give up. choices: -fix front main seal, then go to a bottom mount gt3071R, power FC, and big injectors ---like $3-$3,500 -Build bottom end, go to a T3 topmount, power FC, and big injectors--Like $5000 -sell SR, go to RB25 mildly stock --like $4,000 Would a built SR be way more fun than mild RB? Horsepower is horsepower i guess. |
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