Clutch Engagement Issues - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Champster · 05-27-2007, 11:56 AM

1990 S13

Problem:
Clutch is not engaging into any gears. 1st, 2nd, 3rd, Reverse, etc. In order to move the vehicle, a clutchless shift must be performed. Alternatively in order to shift, gears must either be forced or placed into gear with the car off. No grinding sounds to report. No slipping. Clutch grabs and car jerks when clutch is depressed upon starting the vehicle.

Whats been replaced:
(1) Clutch Master Cylinder
(2) Slave Cylinder

Whats been done:
(1) Bled the lines. Spent a total of two hours over the period of two days bleeding the lines for air. Note: Pedal does not return automatically throughout the bleeding process.

I'm considering replacing the clutch lines for braided ones as I'm almost sure I have air in the line issues. The next thing I'm considering replacing is the Pilot Bearing.

Let me know your thoughts gents.

benefitx · 05-27-2007, 12:54 PM

u have to pull the pedal up with your hand when you bleed it

Champster · 05-27-2007, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benefitx

u have to pull the pedal up with your hand when you bleed it

I have been. I was wondering if there is a point in the bleeding process where the clutch pedal should return on its own.

nassin31spr · 05-27-2007, 02:06 PM

Yes the clutch should start to return. Did you remove the damper box. It makes bleeding the clutch much easier.

Champster · 05-27-2007, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nassin31spr

Yes the clutch should start to return. Did you remove the damper box. It makes bleeding the clutch much easier.

Yes sir. The Damper box is gone.

Also b/c the fact that the clutch does not return, does this indicate that there is still air trapped within the system?

nassin31spr · 05-27-2007, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Champster

Yes sir. The Damper box is gone.

Also b/c the fact that the clutch does not return, does this indicate that there is still air trapped within the system?

Yup, If none of the system is leaking then you still have air in it. When you bleed it you start out having to pull the pedal back with your hand and then it should get steadily stiffer until the line is completely free of air. Give it another shot. Good luck.

johngriff · 05-27-2007, 08:21 PM

Bench bleed the master cylinder. Or just pump fluid through it with the bleed on the slave completely open.

Champster · 05-28-2007, 12:06 PM

Right on. Thanks gentlemen.

I'll give this a shot again.

SDS13COUPE · 05-28-2007, 12:18 PM

Was this car a auto converted to 5 speed. My friend had similar issues with his and he told me he had some b.s. guy do his swap. So I did it the right way and my friend loves it now. I replaced the throwout bearing, and pilot bushing since the autos are bigger than manuals causing play on the input shaft. I also put a new flywheel since his had hairline cracks and hotspots. Have you dropped your tranny yet.

contranication · 05-28-2007, 06:54 PM

you can't bench bleed our MC... I had this same problem, (the whole not going into gear thing) it ended up being that first the slave went bad, then the master, then two of the bolts of the PP were stripped off from the flywheel... blah blah so I went through everything....

The point of the story is... to bleed your system the best... unhook your MC from the firewall, bring it up above the level of the highest bend basically outside of your engine compartment, of course being careful not to bend the hard line, then gravity bleed your system for about 10 minutes you should have at least one of those big bottles of brake fluid... this ensures that you don't have any air in your system... if you want an explanation as to why this works and why sometimes regular bleeding doesn't PM me, I'll be happy to explain

when done just close the bleeder on the slave, cap your reservoir, with liquid in it and put the MC back in its place... then to be absolutely sure that you did everything right try and do the normal bleeding method within two try's you should have great pedal feel... if you don't then change your MC

oh and by the way I took out the stupid clutch dampener that thing just makes everything difficult to bleed

*swayray* · 05-28-2007, 07:23 PM

true... if you line is old and cracking... you might as well replace it w/ an ss line... you may also need to adjust your clutch pedal to an optimal pump level...

Champster · 05-28-2007, 07:45 PM

SDS13COUPE: The guy I purchased the vehicle from swapped in a KA-E because the DE that was originally in the car had blown. The KA-E thats in the car is a manual.

I'll report back tomorrow with the results. Thanks a bunch gents.

Champster · 07-05-2007, 01:53 PM

Finally got everything sorted out. Thanks guys for all of your help.

It was the clutch indeed. I had to replace it. From the looks of it the clutch was shot. I lost 2 springs and it was beat to shit.

I'll get some photos up for you gents later.

Thanks again.

05-27-2007, 11:56 AM	#1
Champster Leaky Injector Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: DTOWN (Littleton) Posts: 105 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Clutch Engagement Issues 1990 S13 Problem: Clutch is not engaging into any gears. 1st, 2nd, 3rd, Reverse, etc. In order to move the vehicle, a clutchless shift must be performed. Alternatively in order to shift, gears must either be forced or placed into gear with the car off. No grinding sounds to report. No slipping. Clutch grabs and car jerks when clutch is depressed upon starting the vehicle. Whats been replaced: (1) Clutch Master Cylinder (2) Slave Cylinder Whats been done: (1) Bled the lines. Spent a total of two hours over the period of two days bleeding the lines for air. Note: Pedal does not return automatically throughout the bleeding process. I'm considering replacing the clutch lines for braided ones as I'm almost sure I have air in the line issues. The next thing I'm considering replacing is the Pilot Bearing. Let me know your thoughts gents.

05-27-2007, 02:06 PM	#4
nassin31spr Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: clay town NC Age: 45 Posts: 437 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	Yes the clutch should start to return. Did you remove the damper box. It makes bleeding the clutch much easier. __________________ *"Home is where the armor is"*

05-27-2007, 08:21 PM	#7
johngriff Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 4,103 Trader Rating: (4) Rides Gallery: johngriff Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Bench bleed the master cylinder. Or just pump fluid through it with the bleed on the slave completely open. __________________ [email protected]

05-28-2007, 06:54 PM	#10
contranication Zilvia Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: West palm Posts: 165 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	you can't bench bleed our MC... I had this same problem, (the whole not going into gear thing) it ended up being that first the slave went bad, then the master, then two of the bolts of the PP were stripped off from the flywheel... blah blah so I went through everything.... The point of the story is... to bleed your system the best... unhook your MC from the firewall, bring it up above the level of the highest bend basically outside of your engine compartment, of course being careful not to bend the hard line, then gravity bleed your system for about 10 minutes you should have at least one of those big bottles of brake fluid... this ensures that you don't have any air in your system... if you want an explanation as to why this works and why sometimes regular bleeding doesn't PM me, I'll be happy to explain when done just close the bleeder on the slave, cap your reservoir, with liquid in it and put the MC back in its place... then to be absolutely sure that you did everything right try and do the normal bleeding method within two try's you should have great pedal feel... if you don't then change your MC oh and by the way I took out the stupid clutch dampener that thing just makes everything difficult to bleed Last edited by contranication; 05-28-2007 at 06:58 PM.. Reason: added information

05-28-2007, 07:23 PM	#11
swayray Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: torrance Posts: 1,017 Trader Rating: (23) Rides Gallery: swayray Feedback Score: 23 reviews	true... if you line is old and cracking... you might as well replace it w/ an ss line... you may also need to adjust your clutch pedal to an optimal pump level... __________________ http://www.thenismoshop.com

05-27-2007, 12:54 PM	#2
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	u have to pull the pedal up with your hand when you bleed it

05-28-2007, 12:06 PM	#8
Champster Leaky Injector Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: DTOWN (Littleton) Posts: 105 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Right on. Thanks gentlemen. I'll give this a shot again.

05-28-2007, 12:18 PM	#9
SDS13COUPE Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: May 2006 Location: San Diego Age: 39 Posts: 1,403 Trader Rating: (19) Feedback Score: 19 reviews	Was this car a auto converted to 5 speed. My friend had similar issues with his and he told me he had some b.s. guy do his swap. So I did it the right way and my friend loves it now. I replaced the throwout bearing, and pilot bushing since the autos are bigger than manuals causing play on the input shaft. I also put a new flywheel since his had hairline cracks and hotspots. Have you dropped your tranny yet.

05-28-2007, 07:45 PM	#12
Champster Leaky Injector Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: DTOWN (Littleton) Posts: 105 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	SDS13COUPE: The guy I purchased the vehicle from swapped in a KA-E because the DE that was originally in the car had blown. The KA-E thats in the car is a manual. I'll report back tomorrow with the results. Thanks a bunch gents.

07-05-2007, 01:53 PM	#13
Champster Leaky Injector Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: DTOWN (Littleton) Posts: 105 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Finally got everything sorted out. Thanks guys for all of your help. It was the clutch indeed. I had to replace it. From the looks of it the clutch was shot. I lost 2 springs and it was beat to shit. I'll get some photos up for you gents later. Thanks again.