|
|
|||||||
| Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
 |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
07-14-2007, 08:15 PM
|
#1 |
|
Leaky Injector
|
Electric Fan questions
What fans are u guys using..??
How are they wired..?? If they are on a thermstat, what temp do u have them kicking on at..?? I had a set of FAL dual 12's and they just burned up on me. They kept blowing fuses about 1-2 times per week. They were 5+ yrs old so i guess they gave me my $$ worth.. Im not sure i wana buy a new set cause ive come close to overheating and messing up a built motor cause these damn fans kept blowing fuses... Ive been looking into SPAL's and Perma Cool... |
|
|
| Sponsored Links |
|
07-14-2007, 08:20 PM
|
#2 |
|
Post Whore!
 
|
Get a Crown Victoria V8 fan... Flows 4500 cfm or so I'm told...
My fans are wired into the battery... |
|
|
|
|
07-14-2007, 08:31 PM
|
#3 | |
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Quote:
they kicked on via thermoswitch which activated relay which drew power through TWO 30A relays. i wouldnt recommend running them through ONE relay, they draw a lot of amperage. most people here are idiots and have no idea about relays and amps, so make sure your run thick wires and install them properly. if you dont, they'll underdraw and fail prematurely, wont flow enough, or will just burn wiring n shit. be smart. dont be like the rest of these idiots...... gotit? good. now go install that shiet. |
|
|
|
|
07-14-2007, 08:42 PM
|
#4 |
|
Post Whore!
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Arden, NC
Age: 40
Posts: 4,460
Trader Rating: (1)
  Feedback Score: 1 reviews
 |
^What Mike said.
It's how I ran my Altima fans. Used a cheap thermoswitch from Advance though and it's been good so far, even using it at and auto-x with the car running in staging with 100* heat.
__________________
My 240 vBgarage |
|
|
|
|
07-14-2007, 09:29 PM
|
#5 |
|
Post Whore!
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: 717, PA
Age: 39
Posts: 3,324
Trader Rating: (6)
Feedback Score: 6 reviews
|
im using a 14" permacool with an adjustable therm thats wired directly to the battery terminal
im pretty happy with it so far, the thermostate is set really low right now (i havent gotten around to adjust it)
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
07-14-2007, 10:13 PM
|
#6 |
|
Leaky Injector
|
My setup was as follows:
An adjustable therm with 2 prongs to it. Both prongs were OPEN when the therm was out of range. When the therm reached my temp setting, it provided continuity between the 2 prongs. SO what i did was one of those prongs went to CHASSIS ground via 10-12 gauge wire. The other prong on the therm went to the NEGATIVE side (again via 10-12 gauge) of the 12V 30 amp SPST relay COIL side. SO when the therm clicked... it provided GROUND to the coil. The positive side of that coil on the relay was fed from my wiper motor via 10-12 gauge since it was the ONLY source in the engine bay that i could find that had 12V while the ignition was OFF and turbo timer was running.. this way the fans would stay ON while the timer was running... Dont know why i used such thick wiring for the coil side on that relay... its just a coil.... but oh well.. Next i took the 2 negative wires from the fans and tied them together and put them to chassis ground.. The wires comming off the fans were smaller than 12 gauge just to let u guys know this... I then took the 2 positive wires from the fans, tied them together and slapped them to the relay (non coil side... duh..) The other side of the relay went to 12V at the fuse box in the engine bay. I tied it down to the screw post cause that cames directly from the battery. I also put in an inline fuse holder with a 30 amp fuse and that holder was also a 10-12 gauge wire on each side... I used larger gauge wiring than the wiring that was used on the fans from factory... Now these fans were rated at 19.5 amps and they said to use a 30 amp fuse which is what i used. Maybe i was wrong at putting both fans together on the same circuit / relay / fuse and it was getting too hot and too overloaded to the point where it would keep blowing fuses as i was experiencing.... These fans were over 5 yrs old and they lasted this long wired this way, granted they blew fuses 1-2 times per week, but they kept on running till now.. Who knows, maybe if i would have wired each fan on its own relay and own fuse... maybe they might still be working today and blowing less to no fuses... Oh well, i liked the FAL's... they worked, but i think i may try a different brand this time. Something with more CFM's cause its like 95 deg out and im gonna need all the cooling i can get... And NO im NOT gonna wire them to run all the time... thats rediculous. Not only does that strain the elec system, but u dont need fans running while ur on the hwy.... |
|
|
|
|
07-15-2007, 11:03 PM
|
#7 |
|
Zilvia Addict
 |
Get Altima fans
Cheaper and work quite well. Also they are dual speed!!! Wire each speed with a relay (4 relays total) and use 10 gauge wire minimum on both power and ground. DO NOT CONNECT them directly to your AC relay or you will actually melt your OEM crappy wiring. |
|
|
|
|
07-16-2007, 12:26 AM
|
#8 | |
|
Leaky Injector
|
Quote:
Just like the low and high speed on these fans... WHat is low speed and what is high speed...?? For all we know low speed it like 1000 cfm and hi speed is onlt 1500 cfm.... I know people sware by these fans and few say they can match or even outflow the FAL dual 12's.... and i accept what they say. But the way i see it, id rather buy a set of fans that tell me what their flow rate is.. does anyone know the physical dimensions of these altima fans..?? |
|
|
|
|
|
07-16-2007, 12:48 AM
|
#10 |
|
Leaky Injector
|
KA-T with stock fans, no AC, so when AC button pushed in/ fan on, the elec fan will come on also. Now, with aftermarket radiator things obviously change, I know Accord fans will work.
|
|
|
|
|
07-16-2007, 01:56 PM
|
#11 |
|
Zilvia Addict
|
If you are looking to spend wayy less than 200 buck for a good quality set of fans, the altima are your choice.
If you want to pay premium price for, in my opinion, crappy fans, get whatever brand you want. As for CFM output, there was a post on Nico where they tested several combinations of radiator/fan. Was for a SR but that doesnt matter for a CFM comparison. |
|
|
|
|
11-07-2007, 06:44 AM
|
#14 |
|
Zilvia Addict
|
Was looking at this in the Chilton ( i know, gay) manual and considering the Altima set-up....Were they difficult to wire in? Were you able to use the factory harness etc? Any help would be appreciated. Kudos to whoever posted up that 240 thread...
Thanks CH |
|
|
|
|
11-07-2007, 07:44 AM
|
#15 |
|
Zilvia Addict
|
The install is as hard as you want to do it
You can make it simple, with a switch and manual activation or fully automatic with a thermistor and ECU control. I used 4 20 amps relays...yes 4!! these suckers draw a lot of amps at startup. Seems like an overkill but I dont like to compromise my engine cooling. Each fan, has 4 wires, 2 positives and 2 negatives (8 in total), with matching wire colors, ended with 4 wires (used 12 gauge wire) Each relay will power each fan and speed. So, in case of one relay fail, I have a backup to to take over. I joined each pair and ended with a total of 4 wires (no use gauge 10 at least!!) For the normal use, no AC or ECU related, I conected one pair or positives to a relay then the relay activator lead is connected to an adjustable thermistor. For the ECU/AC use, I went to a junkyard and cutted a fan harness out of a single speed Nissan fan (I dont like to cut my oem harness) That connedtos has 2 wires, + and - I didnt use the - lead but the + went to the activator lead on a relay. Hard to follow, but easy to wire!!! How do they perform? No AC operation, my fans starts in low speed at 190, shutdows in less than 15 secs to 170...its simply impressive. Now then, with the AC....beware, these suckers will draw you and any little critters in front of them!! Normal OEM AC fan will start whenever the AC is on and speed is under 25 mph. Lets say you turn on your AC, car is idliing. Fans will start in low speed. Engine warms up to 190 and then the fans will go on high until: the AC is tuned off or engine temp go under 170. Or the car is moving above 25mph Again, this is my setup. Also, if the ECU "sees" temps over 212 (via coolant temp sensor) they will start the fans, on low. In summary, the fans will go on "high" only if 2 conditions are met. IMO, these fans are way better, performs better, looks OEM, and fit like OEM than those FAL craps. They are even cheaper and you can replace the motors using Nissan OEM parts available on your dealer or junkyards!! |
|
|
|
|
11-07-2007, 08:03 AM
|
#16 | |
|
Post Whore!
|
Quote:
http://home.satx.rr.com/nissanweb/RadTest/RadTest.htm
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
11-07-2007, 08:03 AM
|
#17 | |
|
Zilvia Junkie
 
|
Quote:
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html...-electric.html Last edited by SILVIA_KIDs14.5; 11-07-2007 at 08:05 AM.. Reason: put link in |
|
|
|
|
|
11-07-2007, 08:57 AM
|
#18 |
|
Zilvia Junkie
|
im using the stock ka fan for my sr...i just cut the two wires from the fan and wired it up to my battery and on to a switch inside my car...it does the job and haven't had any problems with it.
|
|
|
|
|
11-07-2007, 12:34 PM
|
#19 | |
|
Zilvia FREAK!
 Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Tucson AZ
Age: 36
Posts: 1,258
Trader Rating: (5)
Feedback Score: 5 reviews
|
Quote:
Wired to ignition for low High is wired to a switch works great only bad is I cant really play my radio without the car running.... |
|
|
|
|
|
11-07-2007, 12:36 PM
|
#20 |
|
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 4,103
Trader Rating: (4)
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
|
98 ish toyota corolla fans are "almost" bolt on (minor cutting, brackets), ideally, hook low up to ignition, and high up to a THERMOSWITCH. Big advantage is lots of airflow, and the shroud lines up perfectly.
__________________
[email protected] |
|
|
|
|
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
