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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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I was attempting to replace my frontend and got to the fenders.. the left fender came off quite easy. The right one started out easy and then then the bolt on the top in the corner (you have to open the door to get it) decided to go soft and it stripped on me. WD-40'd the sucker and I used the correct 10mm wrench. I proceeded to try with a screw driver and that started to strip too. Any advice you guys can give me. Are their any repair kits or some way to get off the bolt. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/nervous.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':nervous:'>
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#3 |
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Yeah I checked out the local pepboys (yeah i know they suck, but they're the only ones open to 8 around here on a saturday night) and the screw extraction kit they had was a tube of some kind of goo, it claims to make the grip on the head of the screw driver better, but I don't think it's actually gonna work, unless this is what you're recommending. The bolt i'm working on is not fully stripped, but it's getting there. I guess I have to wait till tomorrow to finish working on my car.
By the way, anyone considering getting a chilton manual, they suck and don't help at all.
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#4 |
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Nothing wrong with a Chilton manual. I have one for my 1995 and its come in handy.
On to your problem though. Can you get vise grips in there? If you can just get it started past the stuck point then you can unscrew it most likely and then just replace the screw with a new one. Are you confident with a drill? If so drill it out. That way you get the problem solved and play with power tools!
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#5 |
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I was at sears yesterday and saw a bolt extractor set made by craftsman for $20. Basically you have a rounded off nut and you use one of these sockets close in size and it cuts into the nut as you turn it until it finally grips it. Should work on a bolt as well. I haven't tried it but could have used it more than once.
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1989 240SX Coupe -Eibach Prokit Springs -KYB AGX Struts -Apex-i N1 Dual Exhaust Westminster, CO |
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#6 |
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chiltons is decent, it's cheaper than a FSM so that's what I'm using temporarily.
the traditional screw extractor requires u to drill a small hole an inch or so into the screw body, insert the extractor and twist. It buries itself into the screw and turns it out. The craftsman one locks into the existing head and doesn't require u to drill, may not work for every case though; for instance a socket head. |
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#7 |
Zilvia Junkie
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I have teh craftsman extactor kit that gschroeder78 talked about.
It is a drill bit that drills partially into the head of the bolt or screw, and then turns it out. These do work, but you have to be careful. You need to start and keep it fairly slow, if you run it on full speed, you'll just drill into it. However, we have successfully removed a couple of stripped bolts holding my friends stock rotors in. I recommend these bits with a cordless drill. A corded drill has too much torque, whereas a cordless is easier to make it run slowly. Worst case scenario, you can take it to a shop, and the can get it out with a blow torch.
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#8 |
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There were two kinds of craftsman screw extractors. The drill bit one that Archangel was talking about and the other one I got, it just requires you to tap on the correct size socket as gschroeder explained and it worked well. I was having the hardest time, but when I tapped the socket on the 10mm bolt, it was all downhill from there. Thanks for the help guys
<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'>
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#9 |
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So it worked good huh? I'll have to pick one up I guess. Thanks for being my guinea pig.
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1989 240SX Coupe -Eibach Prokit Springs -KYB AGX Struts -Apex-i N1 Dual Exhaust Westminster, CO |
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