Ignited Push button start into S13 troubles - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

g6civcx · 11-28-2007, 05:48 PM

The ignition switch harness has 5 pins: 12V(+), Accessories, Ignition, and two (2), repeat, 2 starter pins.

1 starter pin goes to the starter while another goes to the ECU. I think you're missing the other wire to the ECU. That's why it's cranking but not starting.

That wiring diagram is not correct for Nissan. If you're nice to me I can do a correct schematic for you. But first, you have to answer my questions:

1) What is the brand of the start switch?
2) How many pins does it have?
3) What does each pin do?
4) What is the maximum current (measured in Amps) can each pin handle?
5) What happens when the start button is pressed? Which pins are connected?

If you don't know the answer, contact the vendor and maybe they can contact the manufacturer.

If you can't get the answer, sell the switch and get another one from a reputable manufacturer. This is very basic information to wire up electronics and any manufacturer not willing to supply you with this info is shady.

g6civcx · 11-29-2007, 06:22 AM

Don't worry about the relay for now. It' just a standard 12V 5pin relay. Let's talk about the starter switch.

Can you answer this question for me?

Quote:

Originally Posted by g6civcx

4) What is the maximum current (measured in Amps) can each pin handle?

How much curren can pins 1 and 4 handle? You can connect these pins to your ignition switch but you have to be careful that you use the right gauge wire and, if necessary, put a fuse in front of them.

Basically, how many amps can your starter switch handle? Because potentially this switch can see as much as 30A if you wire it to the ignition switch (the ignition switch has a 30A fusible link).

The problem is if your starter switch is rated for less than 30A, you may have already fried it if you don't have a fuse in front of it.

Can you find out the answer to this? If you know for sure it can take 30A max then I'll be more confident that the rest will work.

.:JD240:. · 11-29-2007, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g6civcx

Don't worry about the relay for now. It' just a standard 12V 5pin relay. Let's talk about the starter switch.

Can you answer this question for me?

How much curren can pins 1 and 4 handle? You can connect these pins to your ignition switch but you have to be careful that you use the right gauge wire and, if necessary, put a fuse in front of them.

Basically, how many amps can your starter switch handle? Because potentially this switch can see as much as 30A if you wire it to the ignition switch (the ignition switch has a 30A fusible link).

The problem is if your starter switch is rated for less than 30A, you may have already fried it if you don't have a fuse in front of it.

Can you find out the answer to this? If you know for sure it can take 30A max then I'll be more confident that the rest will work.

I sent an e-mail to ignited asking them how much current the switch can handle hopefully they get back to me.

Well browsing their site I find a different set of instructions then the ones that came with my button, are all generic 5pin relays the same (as in which pins are which?), because the way they say to wire out the pins of the relay is not the same as what i did. The way i wired the relay is according to the instructions from the relay manufacturer,should i try the way on the ignited site?

http://www.ignitedperformance.com/pushbutton.pdf

They have pin 85(supposed to be ground) and pin 30(supposed to be fused power from battery) flip flopped.
They also have pin 86(supposed to go to the switching means) and pin 87( supposed to go to whatever your powering starter in my case) flip flopped.

I did notice that the wire i have giving power to the switch is not 12 gauge it's inferior could this be my problem?

g6civcx · 11-29-2007, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by .:JD240:.

I sent an e-mail to ignited asking them how much current the switch can handle hopefully they get back to me.

Well browsing their site I find a different set of instructions then the ones that came with my button, are all generic 5pin relays the same (as in which pins are which?), because the way they say to wire out the pins of the relay is not the same as what i did. The way i wired the relay is according to the instructions from the relay manufacturer,should i try the way on the ignited site?

http://www.ignitedperformance.com/pushbutton.pdf

They have pin 85(supposed to be ground) and pin 30(supposed to be fused power from battery) flip flopped.
They also have pin 86(supposed to go to the switching means) and pin 87( supposed to go to whatever your powering starter in my case) flip flopped.

I did notice that the wire i have giving power to the switch is not 12 gauge it's inferior could this be my problem?

Alright, right now my recommendation is to get rid of this switch. Their wiring instructions are wrong!

12V relays are pretty standard. 85-86 are control signal and ground. Doesn't matter which is which. 30 is current. 87 is load.

Their instructions are completely wrong!

This is the correct way.

-4 to 12 volt source
-3 to 85 or 86, the other one of 85 or 86 to ground
30 to 12 volt source
87 to starter wire

It looks like 1 and 2 are for the illumination. These 2 pins are not important.

This switch is a piece of junk.

If you still want to use it, I would remove your starter switch and check for continuity between pin 3 and pin 4 with a multimeter when you press the button.

This is the easiest way to hook it up, but this is assuming the switch can handle 30A. They recommend using a 40A relay but said nothing about the switch's rating. If the switch can handle 30A you don't need a separate relay.

Pin 1 - for now don't connect this pin.
Pin 2 - connect this pin to ground to be safe.
Pin 3 - connect this pin to the Black/White and Black/Yellow wires on the ignition switch harness.
Pin 4 - connect this pin to the White wire on the ignition switch harness.

The wires you use on pins 3-4 should be the same gauge as the Black/White, Black/Yellow, and White wires. 12 gauge won't be enough for this setup.

If they come back and say the switch can't handle 30A then we'll have to use a relay.

The idea is to connect the White wire to the Black/White and Black/Yellow wire when you press the button. That's all the ignition switch does.

Call them. Ask how many amps pin 2 and 4 can handle max.

11-28-2007, 05:48 PM	#1
g6civcx Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 5,764 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	The ignition switch harness has 5 pins: 12V(+), Accessories, Ignition, and two (2), repeat, 2 starter pins. 1 starter pin goes to the starter while another goes to the ECU. I think you're missing the other wire to the ECU. That's why it's cranking but not starting. That wiring diagram is not correct for Nissan. If you're nice to me I can do a correct schematic for you. But first, you have to answer my questions: 1) What is the brand of the start switch? 2) How many pins does it have? 3) What does each pin do? 4) What is the maximum current (measured in Amps) can each pin handle? 5) What happens when the start button is pressed? Which pins are connected? If you don't know the answer, contact the vendor and maybe they can contact the manufacturer. If you can't get the answer, sell the switch and get another one from a reputable manufacturer. This is very basic information to wire up electronics and any manufacturer not willing to supply you with this info is shady. Last edited by g6civcx; 11-28-2007 at 09:26 PM..