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Old 11-24-2007, 06:34 PM   #31
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well im going to see if the company can just send me the right one. If they dont then i guess i dont have a choice. ill let you know monday. How hard would that be?
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Old 11-24-2007, 11:04 PM   #32
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Old 01-08-2008, 12:25 AM   #33
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OMFG. jdmofmiami's gay ass finally sent me the right ecu after about a month and guess what it started up just fine. I got a partially dead battery which is fine and a leaky radiator which can either be fixed or upgraded and my boost gauge doesn’t work but that can probably be easily fixed. My big problem is my clutch. For some reason when I bled it and got all the air out it would not engage all the way and it would lose enough pressure to just stick down. Now I think it is a bad slave cylinder but I am not sure. I can push it in manually and it will engage fine. So my question is will the slave cylinder off the ka transmission fit on the sr transmission and can it be anything else.
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Old 01-08-2008, 12:28 AM   #34
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in addition to above can someone tell me the order of the c clips that hold the shift knob in. I dont remember how to get it to stick in. thanks in advance for all your help
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Old 01-08-2008, 12:37 AM   #35
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So my question is will the slave cylinder off the ka transmission fit on the sr transmission and can it be anything else.
Yes, I left my KA one on when I did my swap due to it being in better condition. They are exactly the same.
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Old 01-08-2008, 12:49 AM   #36
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Hey thanks a lot. I have a like 10 min until I can touch my car. Does anyone know of anything else that would make the slave cylinder not engage and not pressurize
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Old 01-08-2008, 12:51 AM   #37
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lines/dampner not bled properly (if you still have the dampner I would toss it)
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Old 01-08-2008, 01:20 AM   #38
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Well i dont even know what a dampner is. where is it and what does it do?
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Old 01-08-2008, 02:18 AM   #39
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ok i just did some research and found out what the dampner is. And im not going to lie, im kinda scared. i never bent a line before and i dont really know where to get a new one. but i also havent driven my car in about a month and some and i just heard my sr20 run pretty good for the first time and i really want to drive it. if anyone has any advise i will gladly take it. well wish me good luck.
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Old 01-08-2008, 05:35 AM   #40
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yo adrian i did it. J/P. that shit was hard as hell though. i am about to cream myself. ive been wanting to drive my own sr20 for about 2 years and i finally drove it up and down the block, but i need a radiator, so i might as well upgrade to an aluminum one. it doesnt run too good cold but after like 3 minutes. its probably normal though. i got a bunch of little things to still buton up so ill probably be on again tomorrow asking something. thanks for all your help.
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Old 01-13-2008, 01:48 AM   #41
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Hey guys I am actually driving my car around now but it seems like I have a tuning problem. When I first start the car it cannot idle for anything by itself. I have to keep pushing the throttle in and out. If I keep the throttle in one spot then it will die. Also I checked my spark plugs and I am running lean. There all white. When the car warms up it runs a lot better at idle but when I get on it about 3/4 throttle when im in gear the car stuttering at about 3300 rpm. It stutters and I think it backfires for 10 seconds and sometimes it frees up and pulls hard. I got the walbro fuel pump in. does anyone know anything I can do? My guesses are checking for vacuum leaks and checking the FPR but I don’t really know how to do that. Also I think my BOV is messing up some how. If my engine idles at 1900 then it will just start whistling. It also just started making weird noises when it blows off. It’s not the high pitch like it was doing earlier. If you can help me out on any of this I would greatly appreciate it.
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Old 01-14-2008, 01:02 AM   #42
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hey guys i need some help with this problem. i dont even think my BOV is working right any more
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Old 01-14-2008, 01:11 AM   #43
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did you switch the tubes around on the throttle body nipples? you need to connect the bov to one of the top outlets or it wont work. this happened to me and i just switched it and my bov works now.
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Old 01-15-2008, 02:11 AM   #44
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i dont have any nippes on the top of my throttle body. i have the blowoff valve hooked on to the bottom of my freddy intake manifold. i could change it to the spot next to it but i dont think that would work. would that make my bov leak because im pretty sure that that is my problem. it leaks out at about 1900 rpm.
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:20 PM   #45
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does anyone know where to hook up the BOV with the freddy intake manifold?
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Old 01-15-2008, 07:24 PM   #46
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Quote:
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If you want I can walk you through a repin of the ecu harness.

i would like to know for future reference...
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Old 01-18-2008, 02:19 PM   #47
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i got some new symptoms if any can help. when i am tring to warm up my car in the mourning and i barely push the gas pedal it just dies. and there is now a weird sound coming from the head. it sounds like there is something in there getting knocked around. the sound gets louder when i down speed the engine. can anyone give me advise
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:01 PM   #48
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I think i have a collapsed lifter. so i am going to take it to a shop and have them pop the valve cover off and check it out since i wouldnt even know what to look for. There are some people telling me to get the solid type lifters since there almost the same price as the hydro lifters. What do you guys think? Are they any louder or will you even notice them? I heard something about you having to reshim it every 4 months but i dont know if that is true. is it? And i might as well get rocker arm stoppers installed too. right? Hes going to do it all for $600.
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Old 01-27-2008, 02:03 PM   #49
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finally found out what the noise was. my flywheel was lose and luckily no real damage. but i still have that idle problem and hesitation at 6psi. i can boost to 9 psi so i dont think its a boost leak. how do i troubleshoot my idle air control motor
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Old 01-28-2008, 01:41 AM   #50
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another one. does any one know if i can use my alternator off my ka. dont see why not since i used the lower harness.
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Old 01-28-2008, 11:59 PM   #51
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anyobody know if i could use the ka alternator
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Old 01-29-2008, 12:06 AM   #52
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nevermind i found it. still need help on my idle problem
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:25 PM   #53
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is it ok to run just the Greddy boost controller and not running a boost gauge. i only want one line comming off the fpr
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:27 PM   #54
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i dont think it should matter. im running a ebc and bov and i jus have the other nipple capped off. shouldnt be a problem just make sure to cap off what you are not using.
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Old 02-01-2008, 03:23 AM   #55
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if i did want to run a boost gauge and a boost controller how would i set it up from the fpr if its already t'ed. does anyone eles run both
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Old 02-01-2008, 10:47 PM   #56
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anybody got any input
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Old 02-01-2008, 11:23 PM   #57
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You should get a vaccum block i recommend it to everyone plus it also cleans up the engine bay so u dont have a whole bunch of little t's off ur lines.
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Old 02-05-2008, 11:14 PM   #58
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this might be a stupid question but would it be ok if i just run my boost guage to the manifold and not t it off to the fpr? would it be an accuate reading or do you have to t it to the fpr?
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Old 02-06-2008, 05:53 AM   #59
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That's how you should do it! Yes it would be accurate!
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Old 02-07-2008, 02:37 AM   #60
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hey thanks a lot. i just got a aem wideband 02 sensor in and i am running lean when it is cold and hot and even thru boost. its stays around 18 the whole time. it gets a little richer when i shift but then it goes lean hardcore. anybody know what i can do before i murder my pistons?
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