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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#32 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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so no ac or heat?
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#33 |
Post Whore!
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What MIG welder are you guys using and what is your set-up? Power?
How are you performing the stitch welding on the chassis? Build looks real promosing, should be fun to follow your progress. Keep up the work fellas! |
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#35 |
Zilvia Addict
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Location: chandler, az
Age: 37
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thats not the final shape of the cage is it?
its awefully far from those a pillars great build though id love to find a coupe near me!
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I'm Making a conscious effort to be nicer ![]() 1989 coupe yay! |
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#36 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Location: SoCal! 626!
Age: 34
Posts: 1,075
Trader Rating: (4)
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wow! this looks like a interesting build up!!! i wanna see the finished product!!!
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#37 |
Zilvia.net Advertiser
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Location: Michigan
Age: 37
Posts: 5,616
Trader Rating: (16)
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holy stitch welds batman! I take it you're going for chassis strength, because it seems like half of those would do. Did you make sure you had some way to keep the chassis from flexing with the heat?
Cage and rear firewall look good.
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Build: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=643065 Friends don't let friends buy knock-offs. |
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#40 |
Zilvia Junkie
![]() Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Vista CA
Age: 39
Posts: 339
Trader Rating: (7)
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just a thought, you said that your pipe bender was crushing the tubing? A cheap trick is to find a way to plug the ends, plumbing cap etc etc...plug one side, fill it completely with sand, then plug the other side, it should not collapse if done correctly...
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#41 |
Premium Member
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Location: Santee California
Posts: 2,107
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Looks like a good project car for 500 bucks.
Off the top of my head: FIBERGLASS DASH" Don't get overly exotic making one. Pre Fabbed flat panels are the way to go for good weight loss. I think my dash is 3lb's. FUEL CELL: Not necessary right now until you start running race gas and need to control your weight (racing and TA anyway) But a good upgrade. 2 WAY DIFF: For drifting is fine. Not for racing or TA. For that you should stick with a Helical like a Quaife Helical LSD if you are serious about racing. SWAY BAR: For drifting you want a good rigid setup front and back. For race and TA you want a rigid setup in the front, and softer setup (stock) in the rear. WEIGHT REDUCTION: Plenty to be had starting with that sound deadening (30lb's) on that alone. Good luck and keep us updated. ![]() |
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#45 |
Zilvia Addict
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Location: The SLC, Utah
Age: 39
Posts: 794
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looks like your off to a good start man.. That sucks the car is that far away.. I would hate not being able to go out and work on my car whenever.. stitch weldin looks good..
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#46 |
Zilvia Junkie
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: W Mass.
Age: 37
Posts: 561
Trader Rating: (3)
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Lovin this build! Car is coming out very nicely. Props!
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#47 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Simi Valley, CA
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I would have mounted the fuel cell lower, almost in the stock location, personally. I would have also made the rear firewall and trunk floor out of aluminum to save weight as the cage should brace the back of the car good enough to not need the extra rigidity of the welded in firewall and trunk pan. I would really like to see what kognition has to say about my opinions though. Good overall build thoguh!
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#50 |
Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: philly
Age: 45
Posts: 206
Trader Rating: (4)
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build
Ok, it has been a while since I last posted. Been busy building. As far as the welder I am using, mostly MILLER 135, mig, 75/25 argon/CO2, 110 power, .030 wire for most and .024 for the sheet. Also have a generic tig/plasma setup. Not using that much right now but will tig the stainless tubing. This is my first rollcage. I have definately learned a lot. I know that it is by no means perfect but I am happy with the overall result. The X-bars were very difficult. My cheap tubing notcher only goes to 45 degrees and the x-bars are around 60 degrees. That meant a lot of hand notching. By the end I was getting much better and faster. There have been several comments on the amount of stitch welding/chasis stifening we are doing, I just want to clarify. We are building this car on a very strict $10,000 budget with the overall goal of creating a competative car ( with the right driver, not me ). We do not want to have to rebuild this car anytime soon. With that in mind we are probably going overboard to create a chasis that will hopefully stand up to the abuse of regular track days and regular competition. Perhaps we are dreaming big but can you blame us. Thanks for all the support,
JKP |
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#54 |
Zilvia.net Advertiser
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Looking good so far.
Nice fab.
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Build: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=643065 Friends don't let friends buy knock-offs. |
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#55 |
Post Whore!
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i have so many ideas right now...
just out of shear curiosity... what is the total cost of your build to date? I already have the silvia front end so you dont need to include that. i really want to just tear my car apart and do it right the first time, take my time with it, you know?
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#57 |
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under 10 grand is doable. Are you going sr20? Seeing as how im working my ass off and still going to school, I dont have the time to do an sr20 swap. The people at Adrenaline Motorsports in STL quoted me 4500 for an sr20 swap done in house, if i end up going through them. Ive heard good stuff, but i want to make sure they dont half ass it. And i'll prolly have a 10 grand budget, so yeah... Damn i wish i had the time!!
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#58 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Fit the front bumper:
![]() ![]() I know the front end looks pretty banged up, but it was only like $350. It's all repairable, and will look great once it's fixed and painted (or I'll hit a wall and completly trash it first)... On to the V-mount: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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