OEM or Upgraded Internals? - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Rocko · 03-21-2008, 08:00 AM

Iv been doing some research lately trying to figure out what I want to do with my car In terms of a Rebuild. I Guess I should give a little background on the car before I go asking questions.

The car is a 91 Coupe with an SR20DET Redtop swap. I just bought this car as a project and it came with a ton of parts already installed including a Forced Performance Big T28, 3 Inch Turbo-Back Exhaust, Profec B Boost Controler, Ect.

The motor currently has rod knock so im trying to figure out what route i want to go with a rebuild or a swapping shortblocks.

I want to shoot for ~300whp on the Turbo I have with supporting mods (fuel,tuning, cams, ignition, ect.) and have a motor capable of holding 450-500 if I chose to go big later. I realise that people have put down 500+ on the stock bottom end (Iv seen mentions of Enjuku's 540rwhp race car on a stock bottom) but Im curious to know how long the stock equipment will hold together at that power level.

Here are the options iv looked at and what I know so far, any advice on these or any alternatives would be helpful:

* Swap on a stock used shortblock: Cheap but I dont think there will be any way to tell how good the condition is since it probably wont come with any compression or leakdown test results and most likely unknown milage

*Rebuild to stock: Not too expensive and well within the budget I have for the car but Im not sure how much HP it can handel reliably

*Rebuild with an Eagle Rods/CP Pistons Combo: Sure to handel the power levels im looking at but definately more expensive.

So what does Zilvia think?

*fliprayzin240sx* · 03-21-2008, 08:11 AM

If you got the money and can afford the down time...why the fuck not build it?

If you're broke, just do a fresh rebuild, bearings, rings and whatever else is fucked up on the bottom. I've seen enough people do a stock rebuild on their bottom end and stick a built head make 450 whp - 480whp.

Rocko · 03-21-2008, 09:42 AM

Yeah downtime isnt really an issue, I usualy drive my truck and bike when im home....just a toy

I guess the question is weather or not the extra ~900 for upgraded rods and pistons is worth it for those power levels.

*ManoNegra* · 03-21-2008, 09:50 AM

The way I see it I would do PE or Apexi hg and ARP rod and head bolts on. Rest OEM. Boost it to desired level and if/when it eventually it blows up get another block. But then again I'd only want ~350hp.

corriganjoshua · 03-21-2008, 10:23 AM

I always upgrade my counterparts

WilloW · 03-21-2008, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

If you got the money and can afford the down time...why the fuck not build it?

What he said ^^^. I had the same dilemma before, but I figured if I was going to tear it all apart then I might as well just do it with some insurance.

Rocko · 03-21-2008, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WilloW

What he said ^^^. I had the same dilemma before, but I figured if I was going to tear it all apart then I might as well just do it with some insurance.

Yeah it sounds like the extra cash is going to be worth it.

Can anyone recommend a good place to get the whole rebuild kit? so far iv just seen places selling the components individually. Im sure i could google some upgraded rebuild kits but I want to know which ones are proven.

Dousan_PG · 03-21-2008, 01:02 PM

if u have th emoney
upgrade inside too

Mi Beardo es Loco · 03-21-2008, 01:03 PM

I would def say rebuild the internals with some forged components, but since you're not going for 500+ hp then I wouldn't go insane with the stroker or anything. Keep it modest (with the eagle rods etc), balance the crank, deck the block and just make sure the block is cleaned up before throwing it back in there. It just adds extra insurance that is much needed when you're doing hard driving. I would also advise to getting ARP rod bolts. If you want to spend a little extra then try to go arp head bolts but the rod bolts are a bit of a weak spot I found on the sr.

bmhossain · 03-21-2008, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rocko

Yeah it sounds like the extra cash is going to be worth it.

Can anyone recommend a good place to get the whole rebuild kit? so far iv just seen places selling the components individually. Im sure i could google some upgraded rebuild kits but I want to know which ones are proven.

www.240sxmotoring.com A guy named Jeff there hooked me up with everything I needed. They don't sell a kit but I emailed them and he worked with me.

Sileighty_85 · 03-21-2008, 03:04 PM

For OEM Parts go to www.theNismoshop.com Cheapest prices for OEM as well as after markert parts Water Pump, Oil Pump, gaskets....
I got alot my my parts from www.enjukuracing.com and www.RHDJapan.com

But go full aftermarket, get your Crank blanced and polished for the New internals, The power band is sooo smooth, very minimal Vibration in the high RPMS

03-21-2008, 08:00 AM	#1
Rocko Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Louisville Ky Age: 39 Posts: 50 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	OEM or Upgraded Internals? Iv been doing some research lately trying to figure out what I want to do with my car In terms of a Rebuild. I Guess I should give a little background on the car before I go asking questions. The car is a 91 Coupe with an SR20DET Redtop swap. I just bought this car as a project and it came with a ton of parts already installed including a Forced Performance Big T28, 3 Inch Turbo-Back Exhaust, Profec B Boost Controler, Ect. The motor currently has rod knock so im trying to figure out what route i want to go with a rebuild or a swapping shortblocks. I want to shoot for ~300whp on the Turbo I have with supporting mods (fuel,tuning, cams, ignition, ect.) and have a motor capable of holding 450-500 if I chose to go big later. I realise that people have put down 500+ on the stock bottom end (Iv seen mentions of Enjuku's 540rwhp race car on a stock bottom) but Im curious to know how long the stock equipment will hold together at that power level. Here are the options iv looked at and what I know so far, any advice on these or any alternatives would be helpful: * Swap on a stock used shortblock: Cheap but I dont think there will be any way to tell how good the condition is since it probably wont come with any compression or leakdown test results and most likely unknown milage Rebuild to stock: Not too expensive and well within the budget I have for the car but Im not sure how much HP it can handel reliably Rebuild with an Eagle Rods/CP Pistons Combo: Sure to handel the power levels im looking at but definately more expensive. So what does Zilvia think?

03-21-2008, 08:11 AM	#2
fliprayzin240sx Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 17,998 Trader Rating: (19) Rides Gallery: fliprayzin240sx Feedback Score: 19 reviews	If you got the money and can afford the down time...why the fuck not build it? If you're broke, just do a fresh rebuild, bearings, rings and whatever else is fucked up on the bottom. I've seen enough people do a stock rebuild on their bottom end and stick a built head make 450 whp - 480whp. __________________ If you think Zilvia has too many assholes... CLICK HERE!!!

03-21-2008, 10:23 AM	#5
corriganjoshua Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Wrong End of the Railroad Tracks Posts: 422 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: corriganjoshua Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I always upgrade my counterparts __________________ Team Inertia Cheap,Fast,Reliable you can only have 2.

03-21-2008, 01:02 PM	#8
Dousan_PG Post Whore! Join Date: May 2002 Location: Orange County, California Age: 46 Posts: 16,640 Trader Rating: (23) Rides Gallery: Dousan_PG Feedback Score: 23 reviews	if u have th emoney upgrade inside too __________________ Aaron Pink GodziRa www.geocities.com/pink_godzira

03-21-2008, 03:04 PM	#11
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	For OEM Parts go to www.theNismoshop.com Cheapest prices for OEM as well as after markert parts Water Pump, Oil Pump, gaskets.... I got alot my my parts from www.enjukuracing.com and www.RHDJapan.com But go full aftermarket, get your Crank blanced and polished for the New internals, The power band is sooo smooth, very minimal Vibration in the high RPMS __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

03-21-2008, 09:42 AM	#3
Rocko Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Louisville Ky Age: 39 Posts: 50 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Yeah downtime isnt really an issue, I usualy drive my truck and bike when im home....just a toy I guess the question is weather or not the extra ~900 for upgraded rods and pistons is worth it for those power levels.

03-21-2008, 09:50 AM	#4
ManoNegra Guild of Skullduggerous Intent Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Socal Posts: 7,841 Trader Rating: (48) Feedback Score: 48 reviews	The way I see it I would do PE or Apexi hg and ARP rod and head bolts on. Rest OEM. Boost it to desired level and if/when it eventually it blows up get another block. But then again I'd only want ~350hp.

03-21-2008, 01:03 PM	#9
Mi Beardo es Loco Nissanaholic! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: A place where boob jobs ruined the best thing about being a fat chick. Posts: 1,774 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I would def say rebuild the internals with some forged components, but since you're not going for 500+ hp then I wouldn't go insane with the stroker or anything. Keep it modest (with the eagle rods etc), balance the crank, deck the block and just make sure the block is cleaned up before throwing it back in there. It just adds extra insurance that is much needed when you're doing hard driving. I would also advise to getting ARP rod bolts. If you want to spend a little extra then try to go arp head bolts but the rod bolts are a bit of a weak spot I found on the sr.