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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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front camber bolts, wrong ones?
got these from courtesy nissan, supposed to be for my S14, they don't look right. what do you all think?
![]() OEM bottom. |
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#4 |
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it'll be alright, you leave the bottom bolt in, so that should eliminate any play if any. Ive been running mine for about 3k miles so far, and a few friends have been running camber bolts on various vehicles for years and no trouble at all.
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#5 |
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they look fine, i took them out of a parts car i had, my car only had one bolt for the whole car? weird?
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#6 |
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Ack. Please don't use those things. I've seen too many issues with people running that janky ass shit. For starters, unless you torque both bolts down to 160ft-lbs+ the strut will move under enough load, throwing off any alignment changes you just made. There's nothing to keep it secure unless you tack the bolt and nut to the strut. Secondly, they make those with the cheapest grade steel possible, even the $30 Eibach versions will shear off with a good tightening. I've broken a lot of them on people's cars who swear by them but can't readjust them after driving the car hard.
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#7 |
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Yeah listen to Russ.
I bought some of those on my first S14 for camber. They sucked. Kept coming loose and sliding the camber in/out during hard driving, and you couldn't lock them down real tight cause you could just feel the bolt stressing with the wrench. I never snapped one but I'm sure I could have with minimal effort. They're just not strong enough to handle the loads placed on that area due to the Mcpherson setup. Save up some more cash and get camber plates. More accurate, more adjustability, more stability and better road feedback.
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#8 |
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I'ts stamped Grade 8 bolt. the OEM one is only grade 6, i could rock a camber plate but i am also looking to tilt the wheel slightly away from the coilover, which a camber plate can't do for me.
not that i am doubting you guys, but shouldn't grade 8 be able to hold up to quite the torque and beating? then it would be better to slot the holes to get the desired separation of coil,tire that i am looking for? and here is the current top of the coilover, i need the RS-R specific plates ![]() with RSR plates ends up looking like : ![]() but in the mean time i am not thinking that normal plates will work. Last edited by Tenchuu; 03-27-2008 at 03:13 PM.. |
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#9 | |
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Quote:
FWIW, I haven't had any problems with my camber bolts - yet. Last season I did 2-3 auto-x events a month, including a 25-run test-and-tune, and my camber is still spot on. That's not saying that the cams on the bolts won't wear away soon and screw it all up, though... |
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#10 |
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Reviving an old thread.
I have used these bolts before and never had any problems with shearing or self-moving camber adjustments. The big point I would like to make is that the new bolt looks like a 12mm bolt. Now someone correct me if I am wrong but I'm pretty sure this bolt is too small. Doesn't the 240sx, 300zx, etc. use the 14mm bolt? I seem to remember the old bolts I bought from Enjuku Racing were larger than those. It's been a while though since I had them. The reason I'm reviving this thread is because I recieved the 12mm bolts and did some research the other day only to find that ALOT of manufacturers list the same bolt size. But I'm pretty sure this size is too small, which would explain the shearing and bad adjustments wouldn't it? Unfortunately Enjuku doesn't sell them anymore....prolly cause they aren't the greatest option. But oh-well...bad economy means making sacrifices. EDIT: Okay PDM racing shows the S14 is a 14mm bolt and the S13 is a 12mm bolt. So I could see why companies are screwing it up. Rolling the S13 and S14 together in the parts list. Hope this helps someone eventually..... later.
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#11 |
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Just a FYI for anyone looking,
****************** i ended up shearing that bolt in half with rough daily driving. **************** took about 4 months of driving. I ended up with new coil overs with camber plates, and put the stock bolts back in. |
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