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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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Sounds like a clutch issue or synchros.... Check when you press in the clutch pendal that the fork is moving? Check if the slave cynlinder is leaking..... Check if your clutch master cylinder is leaking as well.... Go from there....
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#2 |
Zilvia Member
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I was in the same situation you were in. Gears in when cars off, won't go in when the cars on. Like Slider said it could be your slave cylinder but in my case unfortunately it was my clutch. When the transmissions shop took it apart, one of the springs on the clutch was broken.
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#3 |
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SYNCHROS??? Ummmm, ok....... Anyways it is either a problem with the clutch master, clutch slave, clutch lines/hose, or the clutch itself. Look at the firewall under the master cyl under the dash. If you see fluid running down from the master then it is bad. Next get under the car and look at the slave cylinder. Pull back the rubber boot on the slave, if there is fluid in there than the slave is bad. Next visually inspect the clutch line, clutch hose, and the fittings for leaks. If all of that is good then it is a problem with the clutch itself. If you find a leak don't assume that that is the only problem. Inspect the entire system for leaks as it is totally possible that more than one component has gone bad. If you have to replace any part of the hydraulic system do yourself a favor and remove the dampener valve that mounts to the frame. It is a pain in the ass to bleed the system with that part installed. All you have to do is bend the clutch line, CAREFULLY don't kink it, so that it screws directly into the clutch hose.
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#4 |
Leaky Injector
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checked all. looked at the slave and had my brother-in-law push in the clutch. the slave is properly engaging the fork
didn't know if someone else had this problem (without it being the master/slave cylinder) guess i'll have to seperate the tranny again. what gets me is it worked perfectly fine before going into the paint shop. (they only rolled it in and out of the shop during paint since we removed the fmic) |
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#6 |
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Broken clutch fork pivot.
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#7 | |
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Quote:
Back off the clutch pedal stopper bolt all the way out (remove it) and extend the master cylinder rod all the way out. This will give you full clutch pedal and master cylinder travel. If that doesn't work, try bleeding the slave. If you have the clutch damper, remove the damper box and run the line straight from the master to slave. 95% of the time this will fix most clutch issue on 240s. |
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