KA-T recommandation!! rebuild help!!

[pink godzila]

Ok, I read the KA-t thread but dont have the info I am looking for so hope someone up here can give me some recommandation for KA-T set up.

Im in SoCal and you know cops here are ass, so SR is not what I going for to sawp in my daily s13. I decide KA-T are better but I know it could still get ref ticket but I can just uninstall the turbo and other then back to NA again. Anyways, my KADE is about 175xxx, tickle sound from timing chain.. etc but the condition is pretty good still.

What do I need to build up a reliable KA-T?

What do I need to replace the old stuff in current KADE? *sure the timing chain but what else?

[DoriSaruMark]

How much power do you want? Whats youre budget like?

Most common problem in a KAT setup is fuel delivery. If you want to keep your engine internals stock, you can get away with using an FMU as long as you keep the boost under 7psi. anything more, you'll need some type of beefed up fuel managment(i.e. piggyback, injectors, fuel pump etc.)
As for the ticking noise, deffinatly change the timing chain and remove the top chain guard (there's a factory service bulletin that says to remove it) and that should take care of it.

[KAs14slider]

Or you can always go to ka-t.org and read about everything there.

[Joshkl]

yea fasho those ka-t .org dudes have 1000 hp ka's that do 7 seconds on the dragstrip. i want to turbo my ka as well.

[initial_drifter]

If you want reliable then you need to build the motor to exceed your power goal

Long story short you can't build a reliable KA-T on a budget build.

For starters replace all the old hoses, upgrade the fuel filter, etc.

[UNISA JECS]

Originally Posted by pink godzila

Ok, I read the KA-t thread but dont have the info I am looking for so hope someone up here can give me some recommandation for KA-T set up.

Im in SoCal and you know cops here are ass, so SR is not what I going for to sawp in my daily s13. I decide KA-T are better but I know it could still get ref ticket but I can just uninstall the turbo and other then back to NA again. Anyways, my KADE is about 175xxx, tickle sound from timing chain.. etc but the condition is pretty good still.

What do I need to build up a reliable KA-T?

What do I need to replace the old stuff in current KADE? *sure the timing chain but what else?

This is the same reason I choose to go KA-T (owned many SR20DET powered cars prior to going KA-T), because of cops and ref tickets, atleast its alot easier to swap back the KA to NA w/smog devices hooked back up.

Reliability is all in the tune so dont skimp there. Replace all gaskets, seals, hoses that you can while your at it.

[pink godzila]

Im looking about 200 hp or more..

So replace rods, piston, valve, srpings, no need??

Also, what can I do to prevent this happen "Most common problem in a KAT setup is fuel delivery"

[initial_drifter]

fpr, injectors, good fuel management system (Safc II can only do so much so get something better)

a headgasket should be in order as well

[sunnys14]

Originally Posted by pink godzila

Im looking about 200 hp or more..

So replace rods, piston, valve, srpings, no need??

Also, what can I do to prevent this happen "Most common problem in a KAT setup is fuel delivery"

Don't be cheap, period.

Get a walbro pump, get some SR 370's, get a tuned ecu.

The problem why KA-Ts get a bad rep is because people cheap out on basic shit and blow it up. Don't be a cheapass mofo.

[UNISA JECS]

Originally Posted by pink godzila

Im looking about 200 hp or more..

So replace rods, piston, valve, srpings, no need??

Also, what can I do to prevent this happen "Most common problem in a KAT setup is fuel delivery"

No need to replace rods, pistons, valves, springs.

Best thing you can do is get yourself a tuneable ECU and learn to tune yoruself or get to know someone that knows how to tune, reason you may hear KA-T blow is because usually those people are cheap and half ass things and blow there engines up. I don;t care if your goal is only 200whp you still need GOOD tunning if you want reliability, if your running a stock ECU your just on borrowed time, sure it'll last for a while depending on yoru driving habits but I guarntee you, your running on borrowed time.

Just make sure you get atleast a 190lph fuel pump or above, if you opt for a larger than 190lph fuel pump, you shoudl also invest in a adjustable fuel pressure regulator because you fuel pressure will raise 10-12psi on a ~255lph pump, the stock fpr wasn't designed to bleed off this much fuel, also get bigger injectors and a tuneable ECU, I suggest you also invest in a wideband if you value yoru engine.

[tckracker]

You must:
-Have a mechanically sound car to start with i.e. no malfunctioning sensors, low compression, arcing wires, bad plugs, etc.
-An engine with a base mechanical tune -no extra timing degrees to start until you can dynotune with a wideband O2.
-CORRECTLY tuned computer for the parts you are going to use like Enthalpy, JWT, or other tuning product.
-Upgraded Fuel(i.e. Z32 fuel filter, Walboro 255lph Fuel Pump)
-Know what is not included with whatever kit you are purchasing i.e. ...Exhaust turbo manifold bracket that connects the turbo back to the block to triangulate all that weight that is hanging off the side of a harshly vibrating engine and/or a flex section in your downpipe especially if you have old motor mounts or solid mounted exhaust.
-Know how much oil volume can be pushed through your turbo of choice because it cools and lubricates the center carrier , which means, YOU HAVE TO RUN A RESTRICTOR, if you expect any kind of seal longevity.
-Know what kind of driving you will be doing.
...Spirited daily driving = where you can get away with minimal cooling and oil upgrades
or
...I'm going to drift the ever living hell out of my car until I'm arrested or I bend it around a tree or another car = Aluminum radiator with dual electric fans and pre turbo oil cooler and/or upgrading to a water cooled and/or ball bearings carrier. etc etc etc...
-And most important ***Patience***. The best build threads on this and other sites are the ones where the builder took time and double checked, and fixed small problems that could become big later in the build. Turboing your car will not happen between your Monday night and Tuesday morning work shift.
Hope this helped.
May your turbo boost, for many years to come.
My Setup...
I have a turbo 1991 240sx with a low mileage dual overhead cam ka24de
-MSD 50lb top feed injectors
-JWT Top feed fuel rail
-JWT Custom tuned ECU
-Whetstone t3/t4 .63a/r oil lubricated turbo
-Whetstone stainless Downpipe, midpipe, and exhaust
-Whetstone oil inlet with reducer
-CXR blow off valve
-Turbosmart boost controller
-Whetstone Stainless Steel Turbo manifold
-Whetstone 38mm Wastegate
-Whetstone Front mount Intercooler
-Cold Air Filter
-Whetstone Aluminum Radiator and dual fans with auto temp "on"
-Misc. additional parts

-Shaun

[tckracker]

Originally Posted by UNISA JECS

This is the same reason I choose to go KA-T (owned many SR20DET powered cars prior to going KA-T), because of cops and ref tickets, atleast its alot easier to swap back the KA to NA w/smog devices hooked back up.

Reliability is all in the tune so dont skimp there. Replace all gaskets, seals, hoses that you can while your at it.

Rad, stock looking KA-t!!!
+1

[orion::S14]

Originally Posted by pink godzila

Also, what can I do to prevent this happen "Most common problem in a KAT setup is fuel delivery"

Most common problem IS NOT fuel delivery.

That is the easy part...

TIMING is the hard part.

Timing will blow up your motor.

Fuel is the easy half of tuning, any 't00ner' with an S-AFC can get that right.

TO have a reliable setup, you'll need to address the ignition timing advance under load/boost...and that means a tuned ECU.

Simple as that.

- Brian

[StockSucks]

+ eleventy billion on the tuning. Tuning is what makes or literally "breaks" a car. Never skimp on the tuning. Get on ka-t.org there are many many write ups and stickies that are very helpful

[EDT007]

As stated before, if the OP isn't trying to make a 700+whp monster he be'll fine w/ the fmu, sr injectors, fuel pump, intercooler, turbo kit. I'm running 6psi with the listed mods and have no problems. The car has been running this way for the past 6 years if that that makes a diff. Goodluck!

[sac]

To make reliable power i would suggest the following

New fuel pump (z32,walbro, something capable of delivering more petrol.)
New water pump
New timing chain kit (oem nissan only!)
New Headgasket (i chose cometic)
Ignition upgrade. (i am going CPI)
Some type of fuel controller or aftermarket ecu.
Larger injectors
Possibly new fuel rail
possibly new fuel regulator
MR GASKET COPPER EXHAUST MANI GASKET!!
z32 maf

You could be in the 1000-1500 or higher range by this time alone.
there is a old saying...
FAST, Cheap, Reliable. You can only have two..

and then the turbo/mani/IC/wastegate/Bov

I realized something when doing mine.. Its better to start it and build it the way ya want, and get QUALITY parts. If ya build it the way ya want, it generally is cheaper than building it 3-4 times to get where ya want to be. And the downtime on your car is less..

If ya decide to go full motor build.. keep in mind.. Your looking at about 3k before even touchin the turbo/mani part. But you have the knowledge that it can handle the power (and more boost) you toss its way. (such a wonderful peace of mind!)

Good luck man.

[99maxgtr]

ulyses, i got almost all my shit man! let me start putting some of that stuff on the motor?!

[Om1kron]

Well first off you're talking about a rebuild, if you're only planning on making 200 hp which is like a 50 hp jump why don't you just spend the money to replace your oil and water pump timing chain assembly and all gaskets on the motor all seals, have the block honed and hot tanked everything cleaned and re-assembled and make sure the motor runs na. Then piece together either an affordable turbo kit or get an off the shelf comes with everything kit like the greddy kit or the jg one.

A really great turbo thread would be the kirk build thread on ka-t.org

www.ka-t.org :: View topic - Kirk build -Vid is up- DSM ecu, JGS mani, T3/T4, etc.

good luck.

I'll post the specs of my ka-t build later to give you an idea of how expensive this can get, i'm shooting for 400 USABLE horsepower, this includes a v-mount intercooler radiator set up AAAAAAAAAAND I will be keeping the air conditioning so I will have to fabricate custom piping for that.

[orion::S14]

Originally Posted by EDT007

As stated before, if the OP isn't trying to make a 700+whp monster he be'll fine w/ the fmu, sr injectors, fuel pump, intercooler, turbo kit. I'm running 6psi with the listed mods and have no problems. The car has been running this way for the past 6 years if that that makes a diff. Goodluck!

I'd agree, if you changed it to:

"...if the OP isn't trying to make a +250whp monster he be'll fine..."

Making ~220-230rwhp with a stock ECU and some fuel tuning is fine, if you address the base timing at the distributor.

As you start approaching the ~250rwhp mark, the timing is really a little much, and unless you've backed the distributor off by 3-4 degrees, you're setup isn't 'safe'.

Might as well make it bullet-proof up front.

S-AFC = $150

Tuned ECU = $300-400

In the big scheme of things, that extra $200 you'll spend on a tuned ECU is well worth the $$$.

Thats all I'm trying to get across.

- Brian

[pinkarrowsnow]

I agree on what everyone said I just built up a ka-t 400hp all internals 740cc injectors and whatnot check out CALUM standalone its 350 bucks and a sick ass setup all ka-t people are starting to use it. So it gives you the room in the future to expand and you have control of everything. SAFC sucks period. No one likes them in the ka-t world haha. Check out KA-T.org they have everything youll need.

[eclipse_dsm]

Originally Posted by EDT007

As stated before, if the OP isn't trying to make a 700+whp monster he be'll fine w/ the fmu, sr injectors, fuel pump, intercooler, turbo kit. I'm running 6psi with the listed mods and have no problems. The car has been running this way for the past 6 years if that that makes a diff. Goodluck!

FMU and SR 370cc injectors not a good combo maybe stock injectors. You'll run hella rich. But it is true that a basic turbo kit under 8psi of boost should be ok as long as you dont drive like an Assss all the time. A really basic KA-T setup for me is....

Really Basic Setup - est 170 ~ 190 whp.
- KA24 Bottom mount Turbo Manifold
- SR T25 Turbo including all piping and snorkel tube. Running stock boost
- T25 Oil Line kit. "water line optional but good to have". Oil pan needs to be tapped. for return
- SR SMIC /w BOV
- SR turbo Elbow
- SR Downpipe
- 255lph pump
- 10:1 FMU or adjustable would be better.
- 2 step colder Spark plugs
- retard timing to about 4 degrees.
** Running on stock maf and injectors **
Pros: Basic setup and can be accomplished possibly under $500.
Cons: Tuning is the main issue and FMU is just a way to give more fuel rail pressure once your on boost.

Really Basic Setup Stage 2 - est 190 ~ 220 whp. ( Upgrades )
- SR Injectors 370cc
- SAFC
- MAF Upgrade "still optional but since you have SAFC it would be good"
* no FMU here *
Pros: No you have some way to manage fuel but timing is the issue.
Cons: Tuning is still an issue but do not strain your fuel delivery and less risk than FMU.

Really Basic Setup Stage 3 - est 220+ whp. ( More Upgrades )
- Rom Tune ( JWT or RS Enthalpy
- and Use the SAFC now for fine tuning.

Or just do all of the stages at onces and it should still be under $1500.
At this point you will realize how tiny a T25 turbo will be to your KA-T. T28 is actually good size but still small IMO. This is basic for me I can list my setup but I'm tired of typing now. GL!!

[wannabe_drifter]

For a tuned ECU, what do you guys recommend ?

I got a SOHC turbo running with an SAFC II now and I was thinking about getting an MSD BTM, but I might just go ahead and get a real ECU.

What is available out there ?

[DoriSaruMark]

Originally Posted by wannabe_drifter

For a tuned ECU, what do you guys recommend ?

I got a SOHC turbo running with an SAFC II now and I was thinking about getting an MSD BTM, but I might just go ahead and get a real ECU.

What is available out there ?

Among the popular, Jim Wolfe and enthalpy seem to be very popular. If you have some extra cash, I'd get a full standalone. I use an electromotive tec3 and the tuning abilities are endless. something like an aem ems, haltech, or even a megasquirt would be fine.

[sac]

Alot of the RELIABILITY is in the rebuild. When i first got my kade with 140k miles on it it honestly ran good, but i didnt know how well it was taken care of, and questioned it. Rebuilding your motor with QUALITY parts gives you that piece of mind.