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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia Addict
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Recommend me a low pro jack
Its really annoying having to use the scissor jack to get the car high enough to use the service jack, I just want to be able to slide a jack to the from crossmember and get it done. I also have large plastic ramps but if I have the alt out (like i do now) and im alone theres no way i can push it up the ramps. Using 2x4's doesnt work as the lever on the service jack needs just a little more space than is allowed to jack up. So what is a good, reliable low pro jack? My car isnt slammed.
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#3 |
Nissanaholic!
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I don't know how low you need the jack to be....but I use the aluminum low profile jacks that AutoZone or Kragens carry. You can usually find them on sale for about $100.
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#5 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Stack the 2x4's
Why cant you drive the car up onto the ramps, rather than push it? Anyway, go to Costco, they have low pro aluminum jacks for like 120? It might be steep, but Costco still offers LIFETIME warranty. (not avail on electronics) |
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#7 |
Zilvia Junkie
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I just bought a really nice 2.5 ton jack from NAPA for ~$115
I asked a similar question on another board and heard nothing but praise for the NAPA jacks. (lots of people recommended against the Craftsman jack saying they dont last, but that the NAPA ones go for years and years) it's lower than most jacks but still not low enough to get under the 240 to lift from the engine cross member. I ended up building some ramps out of 2x6 planks of wood. I drive up on those and then jack up the front. the jack is fine in the rear of the car without ramps, and if you made an adapter block to jack from the pinch weld it would be fine for that too... Similarly if you're crazy enough to jack the front from the cross member that would work but I personally don't feel safe jacking from there. Most hot rod shops that deal with slammed rides will drive up on planks of wood in order to get the jack under there. the Ramps I build have a 5ft piece with a 3ft piece on top of that and a 1ft piece on top of that... the car could have 1.5" of clearance with 24" of "nose" and the ramps will effectively lift it 4.5"
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#8 | |
Post Whore!
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Quote:
Works pretty well, and does indeed get under the diff of the car until you're really slammed, then you'll have to probably back up on ramps made out of stacked 1x4s so you can make a gradual climb, until it's high enough to put the jack under your car. |
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#9 |
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I have a low pro jack. While I can clear the core support to get it to the front cross-member. I can't pump the lever more than an inch without it hitting the bumper.
If I can't drive/push the car onto the ramps. I jack one side up and put the mini ramp under the wheel. then repeat on the other side. Then I have enough room to jack up the car from the cross-member.
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#10 | |
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I used the Kragen low pro jack for years, then it failed out of warranty... I will eventually rebuild it, in the meantime I use an Autozone lightweight aluminum jack. I'm all about Cosco's lifetime warranty though...
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#11 | |
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Craftsman Low Profile jack, got it on sale like 2 yeras ago. Only bitch is that you gotta bleed it/refill it once a year. No drift issues, still in great shape. I throw it all over the place, it keeps loving me back. We got a US General one for the service truck from HF...it works pretty good, but drifts more than I like it. But who cares if you have stands.
It kicks ass. It's Slammed VW approved as well. Put it right under the middle of the car (on the side). Jacks the entire side up at once. Bam, 2 jackstands on the dirver side. Repeat for the passenger side. Quote:
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#12 |
Post Whore!
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i cant get to the rear diff with my craftsman with out 2 2x4 under each wheel it keeps hitting my gas tank i wanna get another floor jack and just jack the cr from the rails on both sides lol.
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#13 |
Post Whore!
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i got the medium size harbor freight one on sale for like lil over $70 out the door
i think mine was like a 3inch saddle height its one of those silver body with blue side and blue handle |
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#14 | |
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Quote:
Also, he was quoting me where I said my jack cleared the rad support to get to the cross-member. The problem with most jacks is not the shoe getting under the cross-member but the pivot box being to high and hitting the rad support or the bumper.
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#15 |
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haha it's soo much work to jack up a lo profile car. I seriously would invest in air jacks if I was to put a full on cage in my car... why the fuck not right?
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#16 |
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the high lift low clearance aluminum racing jack is on sale at harbor freight for 160
get it. its bulky but awesome before that i used the smaller $100ish hf aluminum jack with a 14"+ lift. its nice to do stuff on the corners quickly but sucks if you have to get under. just not enough lift to get the stands extended. |
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#17 |
Zilvia Member
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harbor freight FTW... LOL I work there. Get the rapid pump. It goes to full lift in 6-7 pumps.... And get the extended replacement plan cause if it goes out you'll get a new one
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#19 |
Post Whore!
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i got one of these NRG ramps
![]() front aero still has to come off, so any jack will do after that wood works just fine, i used to carry pieces of wood in my s13 lmao
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#20 |
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wally world(wal mart) big red aluminum jack. its gets under the diff nooooooo problem
its been to many track days, and never let me down once
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#21 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Got these too, but they do not work in a garage. They slide around and are hard to get on. 2x4's are the best.
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#22 |
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http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OME-29023.html
The best money can buy, 2.5" minimum height, extra long reach, 2ton capacity. You can skimp and buy a shit ass Torin jack from Northern, Harbor Freight, or Costco but you'll be replacing it within a year or tracking down parts to replace the lost rollers, handle, etc. Craftsman makes a good one but it's not long enough for a good reach to the crossmember or diff. The Omega one above is THE jack for a lowered car. Buy right or buy twice. Add a pair of low profile plastic ramps from Ebay ($49) and you're set to raise anything.
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#23 | ||
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#25 |
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Apparently someone doesn't know shit about his own car. But hey, it's not like that's a new thing here, confusing one part for a completely different and unrelated one. Crossmember, core support, steering wheel, radio, they're all the same thing really.
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#26 | |
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Quote:
![]() I swear people get the core suport and cross-member confused. Red X = Core Support, Don't jack here. Green Line behind the oil pan = Cross-Member, jack here. ![]()
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#27 |
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Dude, people get the engine and transmission confused on here. Shit.
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#28 | |
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Crappy pic ![]() Thanks guys |
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#29 | |
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#30 | |
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