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Old 10-07-2008, 11:59 PM   #1
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rack and pinion question

im currently working on my car by replacing my old rack and pinion with 250k on it. i removed all the bolts then i tried to take it off but seems like i cant.


question is can you take it off without lifting the engine to make some room to remove it?
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Old 10-08-2008, 12:01 AM   #2
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I have the same question.
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Old 10-08-2008, 12:05 AM   #3
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Yes you can. I took mine out about a month ago. A hatch 240 with SR. Had to kinda toy with it to get it out but it can go in and come out with some patience and just maneuvering it through the open space.
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Old 10-08-2008, 01:03 AM   #4
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What's the problem you're having? The rack will lift right off the crossmember once the brackets are free and clear.
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Old 10-08-2008, 09:26 AM   #5
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Yes it is easy to take off and put on the rack with or without the engine in it. Probably just your bolts are frozen.... Secondly probably the toughest spot is where the spline and the clamp comes together and that is SUPER frozen. So just jam a fat chisel or a crow bar into it to slide it up and down. But nonetheless you have to slide it up the steering shaft first and then take it out.
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Old 10-08-2008, 11:14 AM   #6
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the two lines that connects to the pump and resevoir were already removed. im guesss the clamp and the spline where i get stuck.
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Old 10-08-2008, 02:21 PM   #7
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YUP!!! Its THE hardest part of the whole thing is that byoch spline and clamp. Put a lot of break away on it and jam the screw driver in there like I said. Good Luck!!
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Old 10-09-2008, 12:13 AM   #8
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Takes 5 minutes. Remove the bushings 1st after unbolted. Remove the steering linkage, then you need to rotate the rack clockwise and pull back and it show wiggle out.
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Old 10-09-2008, 12:59 AM   #9
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to add on since you're replacing your rack...how much does it cost to have one rebuilt?
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Old 10-09-2008, 09:32 AM   #10
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i bought mine for $40 75k on it.


im thinking rebuilt one will cost u around $200+
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Old 10-09-2008, 02:46 PM   #11
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Buy a new one. Don't bother with old ones... Too many things can go wrong with them and the work you put in to replace it is simply not worth it...
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Old 10-09-2008, 03:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wangan_cruiser View Post
i bought mine for $40 75k on it.


im thinking rebuilt one will cost u around $200+
Rebuilt racks began at about $220, but that's a cheap investment for a lifetime or steering, the OE rack generally never fails unless people go without replacing torn boots, allowing debris to get into the rack and ruin it.
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Old 10-09-2008, 04:18 PM   #13
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I just paid 175 after core return for a reman rack, that was like 5 months ago and I havent had a problem with it so far. I put the front of the car up on jackstands, then used the floor jack to lift up the tail of the transmission, that made it 100x easier to worm the rack out of there.
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Old 10-09-2008, 04:23 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Rebuilt racks began at about $220, but that's a cheap investment for a lifetime or steering, the OE rack generally never fails unless people go without replacing torn boots, allowing debris to get into the rack and ruin it.
Track usage will cook the input shaft seal and make it weep with a bottom mount turbo. Happened to me and McCoy.

Got hot enough that the stock little cap that fit over it almost turned to dust when I tapped it one day...

For a street driven car they tend to last forever.



I'm getting mine rebuilt at a local place for $75+core and possibly quickening the ratio.
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Old 10-09-2008, 08:17 PM   #15
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^True, I haven't run with a turbo for very long. Consistent track usage at high speed and high boost might cook the seals pretty well.
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Old 10-09-2008, 08:54 PM   #16
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i got it out now. i had to jack the motor a lil bit to make more room to manuever.


but again. im stuck on taking off my tie rods with the replacement.
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Old 10-10-2008, 09:05 AM   #17
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is there another lock to remove the tie rods? i removed the lock but i cant turn the tie rods.



any help?
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Old 10-10-2008, 10:08 AM   #18
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nope... should have removed it while the rack was still on the car... FSM
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Old 10-10-2008, 10:10 AM   #19
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inner or outer tie rods? For the inners you have to move the lock thing and get two wrenches (24mm and 19mm i think) and it take a little muscle to break them lose.

Edit* its much easier to do it when its still in the car, i did it on the ground and it was pretty hard to keep it from sliding under your feet. What i did is wedge it against a wall, one wrench wedge against the ground while i jumped on the other wrench.
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Old 10-10-2008, 10:26 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singlecamslam View Post
inner or outer tie rods? For the inners you have to move the lock thing and get two wrenches (24mm and 19mm i think) and it take a little muscle to break them lose.

Edit* its much easier to do it when its still in the car, i did it on the ground and it was pretty hard to keep it from sliding under your feet. What i did is wedge it against a wall, one wrench wedge against the ground while i jumped on the other wrench.
Please don't use that terminology, it confuses the hell out of people.

Tie rod.
Tie rod end.

Done. Saying inner and and outer tie rod makes it sound like you have two exact same pieces but at different places.

OP- yes, it's way easier to break loose with the rack mounted. You're now fighting with the rack as well as the tie rod.
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