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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
kouki man
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rack and pinion question
im currently working on my car by replacing my old rack and pinion with 250k on it. i removed all the bolts then i tried to take it off but seems like i cant.
question is can you take it off without lifting the engine to make some room to remove it? |
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#3 |
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Yes you can. I took mine out about a month ago. A hatch 240 with SR. Had to kinda toy with it to get it out but it can go in and come out with some patience and just maneuvering it through the open space.
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#4 |
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What's the problem you're having? The rack will lift right off the crossmember once the brackets are free and clear.
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#5 |
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Yes it is easy to take off and put on the rack with or without the engine in it. Probably just your bolts are frozen.... Secondly probably the toughest spot is where the spline and the clamp comes together and that is SUPER frozen. So just jam a fat chisel or a crow bar into it to slide it up and down. But nonetheless you have to slide it up the steering shaft first and then take it out.
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#7 |
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YUP!!! Its THE hardest part of the whole thing is that byoch spline and clamp. Put a lot of break away on it and jam the screw driver in there like I said. Good Luck!!
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#8 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Takes 5 minutes. Remove the bushings 1st after unbolted. Remove the steering linkage, then you need to rotate the rack clockwise and pull back and it show wiggle out.
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#9 |
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to add on since you're replacing your rack...how much does it cost to have one rebuilt?
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#11 |
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Buy a new one. Don't bother with old ones... Too many things can go wrong with them and the work you put in to replace it is simply not worth it...
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#12 |
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Rebuilt racks began at about $220, but that's a cheap investment for a lifetime or steering, the OE rack generally never fails unless people go without replacing torn boots, allowing debris to get into the rack and ruin it.
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#13 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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I just paid 175 after core return for a reman rack, that was like 5 months ago and I havent had a problem with it so far. I put the front of the car up on jackstands, then used the floor jack to lift up the tail of the transmission, that made it 100x easier to worm the rack out of there.
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#14 | |
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Quote:
Got hot enough that the stock little cap that fit over it almost turned to dust when I tapped it one day... ![]() For a street driven car they tend to last forever. I'm getting mine rebuilt at a local place for $75+core and possibly quickening the ratio. |
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#15 |
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^True, I haven't run with a turbo for very long. Consistent track usage at high speed and high boost might cook the seals pretty well.
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#16 |
kouki man
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i got it out now. i had to jack the motor a lil bit to make more room to manuever.
but again. im stuck on taking off my tie rods with the replacement. |
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#19 |
Post Whore!
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inner or outer tie rods? For the inners you have to move the lock thing and get two wrenches (24mm and 19mm i think) and it take a little muscle to break them lose.
Edit* its much easier to do it when its still in the car, i did it on the ground and it was pretty hard to keep it from sliding under your feet. What i did is wedge it against a wall, one wrench wedge against the ground while i jumped on the other wrench.
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#20 | |
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Quote:
Tie rod. Tie rod end. Done. Saying inner and and outer tie rod makes it sound like you have two exact same pieces but at different places. OP- yes, it's way easier to break loose with the rack mounted. You're now fighting with the rack as well as the tie rod.
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