Subframe bushing removel - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

s13.dark1 · 05-13-2009, 12:25 PM

so how did you remove stock bushings?

ive seen fire used has anyone taked them off differently.

aznpoopy · 05-13-2009, 12:31 PM

burn it out as much as you can, then cut through the remaining metal collar with a sawzall. be careful not to notch the subframe.

once the metal collar has been cut through, wedge something into the cut to peel the first edge away from the surface. then jam a screw driver (and eventually a pry bar) in there, and go around and pry until you have a good portion of it loose. then hit it with a hammer and it should pop out.

Marcus · 05-13-2009, 12:34 PM

torch the bushing till its nice and hot.

remove the center sleeve with vice-grips.

CAREFULLY hacksaw the casing. be sure not to cut into the subframe itself.

then use a flat head and a hammer to pound/pry out the bushing.
once the casing is cut, it will collapse and the bushing will pop right out.
it can be done in an hour or two, if you know what you're doing. BUT expect to spend about half an hour on the first one if you've never removed bushings before.

you can use a press, but you can easily deform the subframe.

BTW, did you buy some PSM solid sf risers? they are AWESOMETOWN.

you will feel your diff in your ass

*brndck* · 05-13-2009, 12:44 PM

i "taked" them off with fire. then an air chisel for the outer.

s13.dark1 · 05-13-2009, 01:36 PM

fire plus some cutting tool seems to work best im actully doing it right now, torch saw long flat tip as the pry bar it seems to be going well.

ima going to install cuirct sports alum spacers any feed back on them while we r on the subject?

aznpoopy · 05-13-2009, 01:40 PM

wait. what?

aluminum spacers supplement stock bushings. if you want to use spacers you should retain the stock bushings.

jholman05 · 05-13-2009, 02:11 PM

I did it just like the first two guys who replied did. Took a while but they all came out after a while. I used a delrin subframing bushing that I'm having a hard time finding right now, I think they were around $60 for all four. I love them, after replacing those, all the rest of the bushings with a prothane kit, and having new inner/outer tie rods and front lover ball joints the car handles better than what I would expect from the factory.

essforteen · 05-13-2009, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s13.dark1

fire plus some cutting tool seems to work best im actully doing it right now, torch saw long flat tip as the pry bar it seems to be going well.

ima going to install cuirct sports alum spacers any feed back on them while we r on the subject?

Uh O!! Your supposed to keep your stock bushings if you use spacers, you remove them if your using solid bushings which are different!!

s13.dark1 · 05-13-2009, 03:12 PM

the bushings where bad so i was just going to put new bushings in along with the spacers or should i just put in solid ones

JeremyR · 05-13-2009, 03:41 PM

just get the PBM subframe risers and call it a day.

aznpoopy · 05-13-2009, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s13.dark1

the bushings where bad so i was just going to put new bushings in along with the spacers or should i just put in solid ones

if you put in new bushings, you don't need the spacers. it's one or the other.

Marcus · 05-13-2009, 04:48 PM

ohh shit. i think you messed up.

just buy these from them do this and be done.

cchhyyeaaaah baby. Blang blang

Wake · 05-13-2009, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcus

just buy these from them do this and be done.

cchhyyeaaaah baby. Blang blang

daaamnn epileptic much? paint looks clean but thats a damn fuzzy pic. kinda makes me wanna repaint mine tho

Bigsyke · 05-13-2009, 05:04 PM

Where you get the solid bushings?

OP failed, do not get spacers, even with new OEM because the spacers will just rip the new ones to shreds.

Easy way to remove OEM bushings is heat up area around bushing, along with torching the fcuk out the the rubber, take a nice long hard candle and shove it in and around the metal casing area to penetrate, to further lube the removal of the casings.

If the OEM bushings are still intact, and youve broken the bond with the subframe, you can use a monster cock hammer and a massive socket and pound it out. Use enough lube i.e pbblaster+candle wax and you should beble to pipe that bitch down hard enough to slide the bushing right out.

aznpoopy · 05-13-2009, 05:55 PM

that looks pretty awesome!
i just por-15'd the subframe i'm going to install. now i'm thinking i should paint it.

Bumnah · 05-13-2009, 06:00 PM

Burn the bushings out and cut like everyone says. It works pretty well, and is relatively painless.

I had mine sand blasted and powder coated lime green. Link to pics in my sig.

Marcus · 05-13-2009, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

daaamnn epileptic much? paint looks clean but thats a damn fuzzy pic. kinda makes me wanna repaint mine tho

LOL my bad, i was actually falling while i took that pic. hah

OP:::hope this was of help. what kind of bushings did you buy to replace the old ones?

iirc, the sf spacers only work with oe bushings right?
i got the solid subframe risers from POWEREDBYMAX. they actually push up your subframe and help correct suspension geometry. RUSTOLEUM FTW lol

johngriff · 05-13-2009, 08:18 PM

Man, replacing the subframe bushings is such a mess, you can do it quick but it really is allot of labor.

and I hate loosing goose rear ends too...

clark · 05-13-2009, 08:30 PM

I just did this and i removed the stock ones using a torch, but i didn't melt the shit out, you heat up the outside of the subframe so you make the metal hot enough you can loosen the bond between the rubber bushing and metal.

it does take time and patience, but yeah, of course it's gonna take time if you want to do it right and feel accomplished.

too me 7 hours.

so just get a regular torch from home depot.

drop the subframe.

just heat up the outside as good as you can with the torch to loosen the bond. just jimmy a screw driver in there and pick it out, again each one takes around an hour.

then get a drill and a wire wheel to buff the inside to remove all the rubber that is still stuck.

LET ME MAKE THIS VERY CLEAR, IF YOU USE THE ENERGY SUSPENSION POLY BUSHING REPLACEMENTS (NOT INSERTS) YOU MUST NOT DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13. I REPEAT, DO NOT BE A DOOSH AND DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE ORIGINAL BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13.

if anyone has a question about this please feel free to PM me, i went through the process recently and it was actually very painless because i had the proper tools and patience.

oh yeah, my rear is friggin TIGHT now.

s13tilldeath* · 05-13-2009, 08:39 PM

Torch the bitches.
dont use spacers and new bushings. If you want a stiff ride get aluminum bushings ftw.

johngriff · 05-13-2009, 08:55 PM

7 Hours!

Holy hell, thats a long time..

Marcus · 05-13-2009, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johngriff

7 Hours!

Holy hell, thats a long time..

hell yea thats long. may have been his first time.
got mine out in about an hour.

you dont need to clean the casing of the bushing itself, just enough to get a blade in to cut it.

jamg · 05-13-2009, 09:38 PM

at my local shop, they charge 500 for a full bushing swap.

worth it?

projectRDM · 05-13-2009, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clark

LET ME MAKE THIS VERY CLEAR, IF YOU USE THE ENERGY SUSPENSION POLY BUSHING REPLACEMENTS (NOT INSERTS) YOU MUST NOT DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13. I REPEAT, DO NOT BE A DOUCHE AND DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE ORIGINAL BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13.

Same for S14. And Z32.

murda-c · 05-13-2009, 09:51 PM

Is that just subframe or all the bushings.

turbo_dreams · 05-14-2009, 07:57 AM

If i do use a solid subframe spacer (pdm), what's the outcome? I already have solid subframe spacers, and my bushings are shot, you guys suggest i just slide the solid spacers in or do the bushings?

***enkei2k*** · 05-14-2009, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamg

at my local shop, they charge 500 for a full bushing swap.

worth it?

does it includes parts and labor? i got a quote for about 300 for labor only. then again, i'm pretty sure he was just messing with me and if i do actually do it, it'll be more lol.

oneviaman · 05-14-2009, 08:21 AM

i use an ingersol, with the cutting blade

SILVIA_KIDs14.5 · 05-14-2009, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s13.dark1

the bushings where bad so i was just going to put new bushings in along with the spacers or should i just put in solid ones

go solid and call it a day never again have to replace them it would though have ben easier to get the bushings pressed out

clark · 05-14-2009, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oneviaman

i use an ingersol, with the cutting blade

oh shit i gotta get one of those haha.

yeah i mean i'm talking 7 hours start to finish meaning start the clock at jacking the car up, stop the clock at getting the car on all 4 wheels.

i was by myself so it's hard to fenagle the subframe back up there.

yeah i don't know why these poly bushings don't have more popularity. i mean yeah, aluminum ones are awesome, but these are fantastic too.

05-13-2009, 12:25 PM	#1
s13.dark1 Zilvia Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: oakland Posts: 297 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Subframe bushing removel so how did you remove stock bushings? ive seen fire used has anyone taked them off differently. __________________ *you better cut, weld, and paste that sh!t* http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/24340...kets-more.html

05-13-2009, 01:36 PM	#5
s13.dark1 Zilvia Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: oakland Posts: 297 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	fire plus some cutting tool seems to work best im actully doing it right now, torch saw long flat tip as the pry bar it seems to be going well. ima going to install cuirct sports alum spacers any feed back on them while we r on the subject? __________________ *you better cut, weld, and paste that sh!t* http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/24340...kets-more.html

05-13-2009, 03:12 PM	#9
s13.dark1 Zilvia Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: oakland Posts: 297 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	the bushings where bad so i was just going to put new bushings in along with the spacers or should i just put in solid ones __________________ *you better cut, weld, and paste that sh!t* http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/24340...kets-more.html

05-13-2009, 08:18 PM	#18
johngriff Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 4,103 Trader Rating: (4) Rides Gallery: johngriff Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Man, replacing the subframe bushings is such a mess, you can do it quick but it really is allot of labor. and I hate loosing goose rear ends too... __________________ [email protected]

05-13-2009, 08:39 PM	#20
s13tilldeath* Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Virginia Posts: 436 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Torch the bitches. dont use spacers and new bushings. If you want a stiff ride get aluminum bushings ftw. __________________ "Im a god mother fucker and its judgement day!"

05-13-2009, 12:31 PM	#2
aznpoopy Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: New Jersey Age: 44 Posts: 5,013 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	burn it out as much as you can, then cut through the remaining metal collar with a sawzall. be careful not to notch the subframe. once the metal collar has been cut through, wedge something into the cut to peel the first edge away from the surface. then jam a screw driver (and eventually a pry bar) in there, and go around and pry until you have a good portion of it loose. then hit it with a hammer and it should pop out.

05-13-2009, 12:34 PM	#3
Marcus Nissanaholic! Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: San Diego Age: 37 Posts: 2,087 Trader Rating: (18) Feedback Score: 18 reviews	torch the bushing till its nice and hot. remove the center sleeve with vice-grips. CAREFULLY hacksaw the casing. be sure not to cut into the subframe itself. then use a flat head and a hammer to pound/pry out the bushing. once the casing is cut, it will collapse and the bushing will pop right out. it can be done in an hour or two, if you know what you're doing. BUT expect to spend about half an hour on the first one if you've never removed bushings before. you can use a press, but you can easily deform the subframe. BTW, did you buy some PSM solid sf risers? they are AWESOMETOWN. you will feel your diff in your ass

05-13-2009, 01:40 PM	#6
aznpoopy Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: New Jersey Age: 44 Posts: 5,013 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	wait. what? aluminum spacers supplement stock bushings. if you want to use spacers you should retain the stock bushings.

05-13-2009, 02:11 PM	#7
jholman05 Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Cincinnati Age: 38 Posts: 286 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	I did it just like the first two guys who replied did. Took a while but they all came out after a while. I used a delrin subframing bushing that I'm having a hard time finding right now, I think they were around $60 for all four. I love them, after replacing those, all the rest of the bushings with a prothane kit, and having new inner/outer tie rods and front lover ball joints the car handles better than what I would expect from the factory.

05-13-2009, 04:48 PM	#12
Marcus Nissanaholic! Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: San Diego Age: 37 Posts: 2,087 Trader Rating: (18) Feedback Score: 18 reviews	ohh shit. i think you messed up. just buy these from them do this and be done. cchhyyeaaaah baby. Blang blang

05-13-2009, 05:04 PM	#14
Bigsyke Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: NA Age: 40 Posts: 1,342 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Where you get the solid bushings? OP failed, do not get spacers, even with new OEM because the spacers will just rip the new ones to shreds. Easy way to remove OEM bushings is heat up area around bushing, along with torching the fcuk out the the rubber, take a nice long hard candle and shove it in and around the metal casing area to penetrate, to further lube the removal of the casings. If the OEM bushings are still intact, and youve broken the bond with the subframe, you can use a monster cock hammer and a massive socket and pound it out. Use enough lube i.e pbblaster+candle wax and you should beble to pipe that bitch down hard enough to slide the bushing right out.

05-13-2009, 05:55 PM	#15
aznpoopy Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: New Jersey Age: 44 Posts: 5,013 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	that looks pretty awesome! i just por-15'd the subframe i'm going to install. now i'm thinking i should paint it.

05-13-2009, 06:00 PM	#16
Bumnah Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: VA Posts: 291 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Burn the bushings out and cut like everyone says. It works pretty well, and is relatively painless. I had mine sand blasted and powder coated lime green. Link to pics in my sig.

05-13-2009, 08:30 PM	#19
clark Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: new york Posts: 1,035 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	I just did this and i removed the stock ones using a torch, but i didn't melt the shit out, you heat up the outside of the subframe so you make the metal hot enough you can loosen the bond between the rubber bushing and metal. it does take time and patience, but yeah, of course it's gonna take time if you want to do it right and feel accomplished. too me 7 hours. so just get a regular torch from home depot. drop the subframe. just heat up the outside as good as you can with the torch to loosen the bond. just jimmy a screw driver in there and pick it out, again each one takes around an hour. then get a drill and a wire wheel to buff the inside to remove all the rubber that is still stuck. LET ME MAKE THIS VERY CLEAR, IF YOU USE THE ENERGY SUSPENSION POLY BUSHING REPLACEMENTS (NOT INSERTS) YOU MUST NOT DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13. I REPEAT, DO NOT BE A DOOSH AND DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE ORIGINAL BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13. if anyone has a question about this please feel free to PM me, i went through the process recently and it was actually very painless because i had the proper tools and patience. oh yeah, my rear is friggin TIGHT now.

05-13-2009, 08:55 PM	#21
johngriff Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 4,103 Trader Rating: (4) Rides Gallery: johngriff Feedback Score: 4 reviews	7 Hours! Holy hell, thats a long time.. __________________ [email protected]

05-13-2009, 09:38 PM	#23
jamg Nissanaholic! Join Date: May 2009 Location: GA Posts: 2,106 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	at my local shop, they charge 500 for a full bushing swap. worth it?

05-13-2009, 09:51 PM	#25
murda-c Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Montgomery County, MD Age: 37 Posts: 3,198 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Is that just subframe or all the bushings. __________________

05-14-2009, 07:57 AM	#26
turbo_dreams Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: queens, n.y Age: 34 Posts: 1,333 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	If i do use a solid subframe spacer (pdm), what's the outcome? I already have solid subframe spacers, and my bushings are shot, you guys suggest i just slide the solid spacers in or do the bushings? __________________ www.tm-spl.com Kouki's & some apple juice.

05-14-2009, 08:21 AM	#28
oneviaman Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: oakland park,fl Age: 40 Posts: 103 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	i use an ingersol, with the cutting blade