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Old 05-28-2009, 08:24 PM   #631
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I am still in love with this build. This car will make babies when driven.
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Old 06-03-2009, 12:52 AM   #632
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This is ULTRA AWESOMENESS
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Old 06-03-2009, 01:19 AM   #633
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awesome update. sweet wheels nice tire sizes. also i love the fact that your doing the multi color thing i tried to do it with my car to making diff parts diff colors i think its really cool. for the cage in the trunk go purple!
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Old 06-03-2009, 07:09 AM   #634
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Speaking of colors...

Back from powdercoat:
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Old 06-03-2009, 12:31 PM   #635
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lol.


Drew this up, will probably machine it on my lunch break...





Start with this:

Aluminum Fuel Rail Stock, price per foot: atpturbo.com



End with this:

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Old 06-03-2009, 01:44 PM   #636
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i am so jealous of ur skills nice shit
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Old 06-03-2009, 03:00 PM   #637
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Says it allows the rail to be tapped for 1/2" NPT, but fits -10an fittings? Am I missing something? -10an > 1/2"NPT...

I assume you're using -8an fittings/line?
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Old 06-04-2009, 06:23 AM   #638
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Quote:
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Says it allows the rail to be tapped for 1/2" NPT, but fits -10an fittings? Am I missing something? -10an > 1/2"NPT...

I assume you're using -8an fittings/line?
Rail is extruded at .703 ID, .940 OD

10AN requires a 7/8-14 UNF thread which is a .8125 drill diameter
8AN requires a 3/4-16 UNF which requires a .6875 drill diameter
1/2" NPT requires a .703 drill diameter.

So you can't use 8AN.

An internal 10AN (7/8-14) thread has a major diameter of .875.

That would leave only .0325 (or 1/32") of material on the rail. Not enough.

With the rail already being at the exact size for the NPT tap, I chose that. In fact, tapping an SAE port fucking sucks, because you really need to machine an o-ring pocket.


Regarding line choice, I will probably run -8, simply because it's cheaper, and will deliver PLENTY of flow.

To address your question, keep in mind that it says compatible for -10 fittings because a lot of V8 guys run these type of rails, so they put a 1/2" NPT Male X -10AN Male nipple on the rail and feed 2 fuel rails w/ -10 line.

Does that help?
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Old 06-04-2009, 12:17 PM   #639
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Yup, that's what I thought. I was trippin out cause I knew 1/2" NPT was way bigger than 1/2", but quite a bit smaller than -10an. I'm with ya about the o-ring bitch-factor...
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Old 06-09-2009, 09:57 PM   #640
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Painted my honda accord brake booster and polished my honda civic master cylinder and associated mounting brackets. Not a super siqqq job, but it will not stick out like a sore thumb in my uber clean engine bay...

BEFORE:



AFTER




Some other stuff...

Had to order ARP flywheel bolts today... and then i ruined my damper by trying to machine it down, So i had to buy a 500 dollar ATI superdamper. LAME.

Also spent 400 dollars on AN lines and fittings. Just keep spending spending spending...
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Old 06-10-2009, 01:15 PM   #641
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wait you lost me... why the honda BMC? and i dont get why you got the flywheel bolts for a dampner?
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Old 06-10-2009, 01:45 PM   #642
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RB >:-[

Bro... if only we could all be so lucky.
"Spending spending spending"! Its insulting.

This is one of the greatest builds online anywhere probably.
I am an avid lover of both BMW's and NISSAN's.
And I have had so much technical training its not even funny.
I only wish I had the "pocket cash" to put my skills/resources to use for myself, as you can. I mean, I am building a car right now, but its so basic by comparison. I gotta get some welding classes next. lol!!

Props on the Build CT. Its absolutely gorgeous.
Not crazy about the rainbow effect, But Hey...
To each their own, its still beautiful!!! lol!!
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Old 06-10-2009, 02:25 PM   #643
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Quote:
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wait you lost me... why the honda BMC? and i dont get why you got the flywheel bolts for a dampner?
Needed a new damper because i wrecked mine

needed flywheel bolts because i lost mine

needed Honda BMC because the e30 one was HUGE
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Old 06-10-2009, 02:27 PM   #644
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I just dropped my head off at the machine shop. Not gonna port or polish, they're just going to vac test it to see if it needs a valve job. If it does... grrrrr
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Old 06-10-2009, 07:23 PM   #645
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Quote:
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Yup, that's what I thought. I was trippin out cause I knew 1/2" NPT was way bigger than 1/2", but quite a bit smaller than -10an. I'm with ya about the o-ring bitch-factor...
NPT to AN fittings are kind of funny in that the one size down NPT fitting will give an untapered diameter through to the AN fitting. For instance, a fitting with a straight bore all the way through: 1/8" NPT to -4 AN, 3/8" NPT to -8 AN, 1/2" NPT to -10 AN etc.

It has to do with pipe being the approximate ID measurement, and tubing being the exact tube OD(with the ID being OD-2*wall thickness).
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:27 AM   #646
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here are some photo updates for you.

Here's a shot of the new rear ebrake setup. Probably one of the few e30s with a completely new oem rear ebrake. Also pictured are purple axle, green dif, yellow strut, blue swaybar and orange subframe. Black is so boring.



Here is a shot of the freshly polished fuel rail. Did that tonight...




And lastly, for all you naysayers, here's a shot of the plenum, complete with polished/painted throttle linkage sitting in the engine bay to compare the violet to the green of the chassis. I think these two colors look stellar together!

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Old 06-11-2009, 09:09 AM   #647
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On the right is an example of why you cannot machine the third pulley (PS) off of an RB26 crank pulley. There was really no way of knowing that this would happen by visually inspecting the part...

The lesson learned is quantified by the 510 dollar ATI superdamper (center) and the accompanying waterpump pulley (to clear the larger damper). However, this is supposed to be an EXCELLENT addition to the motor, greatly increasing longevity, so it's not all in vain.

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Old 06-11-2009, 11:36 AM   #648
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ah i got it now.. very nice color for the intake manifold in contrast to the green. and i would love to have one of those ati dampers too! they are great! seems like your getting close to the motor coming on home huh?
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Old 06-11-2009, 11:44 AM   #649
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Ok, i gotta admit....
...the purple and that green are visually stunning!!
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Old 06-11-2009, 12:11 PM   #650
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Thanks guys. The purple also looks sweet with the yellow/gold that the car turns in natural light...

ATi dampers are def pretty baller
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Old 06-11-2009, 12:57 PM   #651
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Ct i remeber reading eairlier in the thread that you were having motor problems. Are you going to have to rebuild the motor and what are your power goals? Sorry if these questions have already been asked. Also this build is probably the cleanest and most entertaining builds i have ever read and the colors are awesome. Good work sticking to those e30 fanboys on the bimmer forums too, those guys are a bunch of tight wads.
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Old 06-11-2009, 01:13 PM   #652
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Engine's comin together. Maybe we'll see it in the car before my kids get out of highschool.

Hint: I don't have kids.
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Old 06-11-2009, 01:30 PM   #653
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Ct i remeber reading eairlier in the thread that you were having motor problems. Are you going to have to rebuild the motor and what are your power goals? Sorry if these questions have already been asked. Also this build is probably the cleanest and most entertaining builds i have ever read and the colors are awesome. Good work sticking to those e30 fanboys on the bimmer forums too, those guys are a bunch of tight wads.
E30GTR-DISASTER: ENGINE PROBLEMS
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Old 06-15-2009, 08:07 PM   #654
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So i needed to do something about my alternator..

Before (reference pic, mine was actually MORE beat)


After a bunch of hours of sanding, painting and polishing. Again, not super baller or anything, but way better than it was.
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Old 06-19-2009, 09:40 PM   #655
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Finished all the brake lines. Still need to make mounting tabs though.

REAR
Here are the braided connections to the rear:


Here is the T area near the rear dif. In the Background you can see the line from the master where it pierces into the cabin:


Then the line running up to the prop valve:


The prop valve line runs forward up the firewall and in the background of the pic you can see where it pierces through under the master:



FRONT
Here is the braided connection for the front caliper:


Which then feeds this line that goes across the firewall:


And then into this T, which connects to the driver front and then into the master. (IDK why it looks so wet down there. Fluids haven't touched this car in ages. Haha. You can also see the bulkhead fitting where the rear line ties in:
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Old 06-19-2009, 11:20 PM   #656
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Brake hardlines look perfect, which bender do you use?

Your alternator is an inspiration, I've still got my RB25 out, and having painted/cleaned everything else, I think I will wire wheel/steel wool the alternator, and probably leave it at that. You disassembled it to paint it, right?
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Old 06-19-2009, 11:54 PM   #657
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OH MY GOD! Just tuned into this..and its freakin EPIC! Love the colors too..Haha
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Old 06-20-2009, 06:51 AM   #658
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Brake hardlines look perfect, which bender do you use?

Your alternator is an inspiration, I've still got my RB25 out, and having painted/cleaned everything else, I think I will wire wheel/steel wool the alternator, and probably leave it at that. You disassembled it to paint it, right?
I used a pretty cheap bender from autozone or something that I bought for my old 240sx. It's black and has 3 different spots for 3/16, 1/4 and 3/8 tube. I have been using the 3/16 slot for the 1/4 though with good results. I am using an Imperial Eastman 37* single flaring tool.

As for the alternator, Yeah, I took it apart to paint it. The only things I painted were the stator laminations and the pulley.

The housing was hand sanded and polished using 100, 220, 400, 600, 900, 1200, 1500 then polish. It took a really long time to get done, haha.

Taking apart the alternator is REALLY easy, however before you take any bolts out, there is a small hole (about 1.5mm) on the back of the alternator. Slide an allen key in there to hold the brushes in place. Works great.
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Old 06-20-2009, 03:57 PM   #659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctnewman View Post
I used a pretty cheap bender from autozone or something that I bought for my old 240sx. It's black and has 3 different spots for 3/16, 1/4 and 3/8 tube. I have been using the 3/16 slot for the 1/4 though with good results. I am using an Imperial Eastman 37* single flaring tool.

As for the alternator, Yeah, I took it apart to paint it. The only things I painted were the stator laminations and the pulley.

The housing was hand sanded and polished using 100, 220, 400, 600, 900, 1200, 1500 then polish. It took a really long time to get done, haha.

Taking apart the alternator is REALLY easy, however before you take any bolts out, there is a small hole (about 1.5mm) on the back of the alternator. Slide an allen key in there to hold the brushes in place. Works great.
you. I'll probably pull the alt apart. That's a lot of polishwork for a part that hides under the IM lol. Love it.

As for the bender & flare tool, I'll have to see what kind of benders Autozone has - the one I got years ago had was literally just two solid pieces pivoting on a rivet that made these sideways, large radius bends no matter what you did lol. If they have something cheap that'll actually hold the tubing, I'll check into it.

I have yet to see a cheap 37* flare tool that doesn't suck balls, so I use flareless fittings (with the inserts) on things like fuel rails to go to -AN, and save all the brake hardlines :/ I guess you can't be a baller without a 37* flare tool, can you?
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Old 06-21-2009, 09:58 AM   #660
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For the record, some of the really tight bends I bent about 45 degrees with the bender, then used to box end wrenches to cheat the bends to 90 with a smaller radius...
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