FAL-220 fans blowing fuse

[LA_phantom_240]

Here's the situation... I'm running a DIF dual fan controller on my Flex-A-Lite FAL-220 fans. I can't remember the amp draw of the fans (and can hardly find it now cause they're discontinued ), but if I recall, it's something like 12.5 amps per fan. The DIF fan controller comes with a fused link and a 30a fuse. Well, the fans and controller worked just dandy up until a couple of weeks ago when the fuse blew. I didn't see anything wrong, other than the link had melted a bit. I replaced the fuse and went about my business. Well, today I get to work and I don't hear my fans when I get out of the car... cause the fuse blew again. I don't see any shorts or anything of the sort, though the wire from the link to the controller is a bit blistered from getting hot, and the spade terminal that connects the link to the controller is a bit blistered as well. The only thing I can think of is that the spade terminal has a weak connection and is getting hot.

I dunno.

What should I look for?

[LA_phantom_240]

Need help, fellas.

run each fan on its own circuit with a 20amp fuse. each fan can pull as much as 15amps, so run heavy gauge (10-12 gauge) wiring and 2 circuits, one for each fan. 1 relay for each fan too.

cheers

[LA_phantom_240]

Hmm... So... something like this? I know, it's very crude, and I have few MSPaint skills.

[bshotts]

Basically, I've had the same problem with my FAL 220s. Make sure, if you haven't already, to wire every circuit associated with the fan controller with 10 gauge wire, bigger is not required, but don't use any size smaller. The switched 12V source wire doesn't have to be as hefty (usually 16 or 18 gauge), but again, the battery + and -, and the fans + and - wires must be 10 gauge which is rated for 20 Amps. I essentially melted the male spade end on the fan controller PCB because of overheating the 14 gauge wire I originally used.

[LA_phantom_240]

Originally Posted by bshotts

Basically, I've had the same problem with my FAL 220s. Make sure, if you haven't already, to wire every circuit associated with the fan controller with 10 gauge wire, bigger is not required, but don't use any size smaller. The switched 12V source wire doesn't have to be as hefty (usually 16 or 18 gauge), but again, the battery + and -, and the fans + and - wires must be 10 gauge which is rated for 20 Amps. I essentially melted the male spade end on the fan controller PCB because of overheating the 14 gauge wire I originally used.

The fan controller came with a 10awg (possibly 12awg) fusible link. The fans are wired with 12awg from the controller.

[viperbite]

im rocking a 30 amp fuse 10 gauge wire on a pair of altima fans. mine work great. and wires dont get warm.

test the resistance between the + and - on each fan. it sounds like the fans are shorting out after being used for a period of time. i dont know the exact numbers but i know it should be very high resistance. like in the thousands of ohms.

i found this when googling how to test a 3 phase motor

To use a megger, connect to the line side of one of the motor leads with the red test lead. Connect the black lead to a ground on the motor frame. Depending on which type megger you are using, crank or press the test button. Most meters will read from left to right. Any reading less than 2 megohms is nearing insulation failure and should be seen too by a service center. Hope this helps, and thanks for using Allexperts, Charles.

you should be able to test it with just using the resistance setting on a multimeter. you are basically looking for HIGH resistance.

you could call flexalite to see what they say about the resistance of their fan motors. more than likely a service tech could spout off a number immediately off the top of his head. and they might even send you a new motor / fan if yours turns out bad.

goodluck. make sure your relay isnt shorted out aswell. that could cause fuses to pop. and look for imperfectios in the wire. it also helps to run the + wire away from grounds. aka just sheild the wire more than the stock shielding on it. you can accomplish this with some heatshrink

[coreansurfer]

add another relay, i had the same problem, this stopped my fuses from melting as well as made the fans run stronger

[teamsprock]

I added a relay yesterday and feel much better about it being wired that way. I use the temp controller box as the signal to turn the relay on so it still controls the fans just doesn't run all the current through it. I also ran the grounds on the fans to a separate spot instead of to the controller. I still need to figure out why one of the fans has never been as strong as the other. If you need help I can explain how to wire in a relay, its super simple and will save you lots of headaches. Really each fan should have their own relay.

Originally Posted by viperbite

im rocking a 30 amp fuse 10 gauge wire on a pair of altima fans. mine work great. and wires dont get warm.

test the resistance between the + and - on each fan. it sounds like the fans are shorting out after being used for a period of time. i dont know the exact numbers but i know it should be very high resistance. like in the thousands of ohms.

i found this when googling how to test a 3 phase motor

To use a megger, connect to the line side of one of the motor leads with the red test lead. Connect the black lead to a ground on the motor frame. Depending on which type megger you are using, crank or press the test button. Most meters will read from left to right. Any reading less than 2 megohms is nearing insulation failure and should be seen too by a service center. Hope this helps, and thanks for using Allexperts, Charles.

you should be able to test it with just using the resistance setting on a multimeter. you are basically looking for HIGH resistance.

you could call flexalite to see what they say about the resistance of their fan motors. more than likely a service tech could spout off a number immediately off the top of his head. and they might even send you a new motor / fan if yours turns out bad.

goodluck. make sure your relay isnt shorted out aswell. that could cause fuses to pop. and look for imperfectios in the wire. it also helps to run the + wire away from grounds. aka just sheild the wire more than the stock shielding on it. you can accomplish this with some heatshrink

what kind of shitty advice is this? i dont think anyone with (good) basic electrical knowledge would recommend the above.


his fans work, i dont have a doubt in the fans being faulty. i would imagine that if a fan doesnt operate properly, it wont even spin loosely by hand, let alone when powered. no need for resistance checks, its all a big waste of time.


whats more important is that he configures a proper dual relay circuit using good quality, heavy gauge wiring. these are not puny altima fans, each fan uses ~15 amps of current.. thats a lot of juice for one fucking fan.

i wont comment on the ms paint wiring schematic because theres just too much room for error there. do the math, put your electrical schematic on paper and go from there. if you understand basic electrical you'll be fine, its pretty hard to fuck up.

and like russ has said in the past, use some good quality relays (bosch, hella, etc) stay away from no name shit. i dont have any experience with fan control module, so youre on your own there.. but i dont see it being anything difficult to implement.

[bigOdom1]

i had the same problem so i pulled out the fan controller box and put them on a switch in the cabin.

[LA_phantom_240]

Originally Posted by bigOdom1

i had the same problem so i pulled out the fan controller box and put them on a switch in the cabin.

Not to be a dick, but I fucking HATE switches. lol. That's why I like the DIF controller, cause it knows what's up.

Originally Posted by ixfxi

whats more important is that he configures a proper dual relay circuit using good quality, heavy gauge wiring. these are not puny altima fans, each fan uses ~15 amps of current.. thats a lot of juice for one fucking fan.

i wont comment on the ms paint wiring schematic because theres just too much room for error there. do the math, put your electrical schematic on paper and go from there. if you understand basic electrical you'll be fine, its pretty hard to fuck up.

and like russ has said in the past, use some good quality relays (bosch, hella, etc) stay away from no name shit. i dont have any experience with fan control module, so youre on your own there.. but i dont see it being anything difficult to implement.

Wiring up relays isn't a problem for me. The biggest thing keeping me from doing it is that I like to keep a clean profile. I don't like wiring birdnests. I just gotta find somewhere out of the way to mount the relays. Gotta stock up on 10awg wire and wire loom lol.

Switches are ghetto.

The proper way to do it is to use a thermoswitch

[bigOdom1]

the switch is under the column so its out of sight. i had it on a thermoswitch but the damn controller box died on me. it works for me and i wont need to replace the box. one less electronic thing to worry about.

thermoswitch doesnt require a controller, it is installed in the coolant stream much like the OE S13 AC fan thermoswitch, and is designed to close circuit at a precise temperature. the AC thermoswitch would turn on at 200 i believe, a bit high but it can work.

there are other degree thermoswitches out there which can be used to activate your e-fan relay triggers, as opposed to using a ghetto ass switch.

[LA_phantom_240]

Originally Posted by ixfxi

thermoswitch doesnt require a controller, it is installed in the coolant stream much like the OE S13 AC fan thermoswitch, and is designed to close circuit at a precise temperature. the AC thermoswitch would turn on at 200 i believe, a bit high but it can work.

there are other degree thermoswitches out there which can be used to activate your e-fan relay triggers, as opposed to using a ghetto ass switch.

I like the idea of a thermoswitch, but the only problem is I don't know where to put it.

Doesn't BLITZ make an adapter pipe you splice into the radiator hose so you can put a temp sensor/thermoswitch?

yes, there is a fancy hose which i have.. but i am gonna sell it, i wont need it anymore. mine is a samco or blitz, cant remember. let me know if you want it for a marginal fee

you can also buy a coolant t-pipe, make one, or you can drill and tap into the manifold which is what i will be doing this time around

[LA_phantom_240]

Originally Posted by ixfxi

you can also buy a coolant t-pipe, make one, or you can drill and tap into the manifold which is what i will be doing this time around

Where at on the manifold?

Also, I can probably get the local radiator shop to weld me a bung on the top tank of the radiator itself. They did a good job fixing my friend's radiator a while back.

[g6civcx]

I have a temp sensor mounted on the head, and a Racepak integrated control unit that can turn on the FAL 220 at any temp I want.

I can help you with your wiring.

Figure out what switch you want to use, and if you want to use the DiF controller at all. Drop me a line when you're ready and I'll put together the wiring for you.

[g6civcx]

I'll say that the FAL has given me a lot of problems in the past. Mostly it was due to improper grounding. Bad ground is the most likely culprit for blowing fuses.

[LA_phantom_240]

Originally Posted by g6civcx

I'll say that the FAL has given me a lot of problems in the past. Mostly it was due to improper grounding. Bad ground is the most likely culprit for blowing fuses.

Cool. I'll check that out. It hasn't blown a fuse since the last incident, but it'll happen. Sooner or later, it'll happen.

[fueled by hate]

Autozone and kragen sell an adjustable fan controller with thermoswitch for around $30. The thermoswitch mounts in the radiator near the upper hose. I've been running it for a long time with no problems so far.

[LA_phantom_240]

Really? I had one of those and it didn't work. Had one of those probes you put between the radiator fins? Yup. They're doodoo butter.