what else to buy/install, when doing the sr20det swap

[comptechgsr]

i heard that it's a very good thing to install these items during the swap (to save time/money):

headgasket
injectors (whats wrong with the stock ones?)


anything else?

[mbmbmb23]

If you are satisfied with a stock setup then leave the original injectors for awhile. Its not hard to take them out to upgrade when you save up $$ for new ones. My suggestion to you would be to get all new motor/transmission mounts when you swap, and also clean out your engine bay really well. You might wanna go ahead and run the piping for a front mounted intercooler, and upgrade to one of those.




-m

[wylin]

These are the things i wish i did during my swap

- Nismo Engine and Tranny mounts - 220$

- Tomei package from jspec.com - Head gasket/ Rocker Arm stopper/ Valve springs

- Better quality oil-less Intake kit - Blitz LM/ Apex-i Power intake

What i did get and dont regret:

- Downpipe
- exhaust
- ACT Cliutch

[Dousan_PG]

yeah wylin!

also
fuel pump
replace gaskets and water pump..

[wylin]

Aaron opps forgot bout that.

side note bout fuel pump.

Remember For s14 if u use the basic walboro or Z32 TT feul pump it may or may not have the correct pick up and the pick up might need to be modified.

Also Always buy a NEW Fuel sock if u have to change nething.

Another good alternative for S13/s14 is the Denso Supra Fuel pump or the Tomei fuel pump kit (www.jspec.com / www.phase2motortrend.com)

Also if u have extra Cash I'd recomend doing an upgrade of Stock Radiator to a larger Aftermarket unit(Koyo/ greddy/ Fluidyne/ etc) and changing the stock upper and lower radiator hoses. Samco makes a great kit for the S13/S14 and Blitz/ Tomei make a upper hose w/ a Water Temp sensor fitting. Phase2 sells both.

[weirdstyles.net]

Originally posted by wylin
Aaron opps forgot bout that.

side note bout fuel pump.

Remember For s14 if u use the basic walboro or Z32 TT feul pump it may or may not have the correct pick up and the pick up might need to be modified.

Also Always buy a NEW Fuel sock if u have to change nething.

Another good alternative for S13/s14 is the Denso Supra Fuel pump or the Tomei fuel pump kit (www.jspec.com / www.phase2motortrend.com)

Also if u have extra Cash I'd recomend doing an upgrade of Stock Radiator to a larger Aftermarket unit(Koyo/ greddy/ Fluidyne/ etc) and changing the stock upper and lower radiator hoses. Samco makes a great kit for the S13/S14 and Blitz/ Tomei make a upper hose w/ a Water Temp sensor fitting. Phase2 sells both.

this is the first time I have ever seen this guy post, and damn does this guy have knowledge...way to be wylin.


I should probably start thinkin about doing my SR. I was considering swapping in a DOHC for my SOHC but wtf? Why go through that whole process of swapping the motor to end up with less HP?

note: when i first got my 90 FB I had to swap in a used SOHC. The original owner didnt understand the concept of COOLANT...moron

[wylin]

Originally posted by James
WTF. The guy wants to save time and money not read your wish list.
THE GUY WANTS TO SAVE TIME AND MONEY AND GET THE CAR STARTED.

But he didn't list if he's **** broke or what he plans to do with the car and how much power he initially wants.

in response all those mods should be done during the swap seriously it makes it alot easier. Take it from some one that knows. If u dont got the cash dont play with the big boys.

- Cooling should never be overloocked, period.

- fuel pump sumthing not to **** arround with seriously stock Ka pump is too weak and should be Tossed immediately for safety.

- Head gasket/ rocker arm/ valve spring its a bitch to take off head when the engine is in, might as well doit when the motor is out.

- Motor/ tranny mount most mount has so many miles on it and its hard to do those when engine and tranny is in so doit now. best mod to do.

- water pump important not to drive on leaking water pump.

Actually theres more.

- if ur oil pans banged get an ARC or Greddy oil pan dont bother banging it out.

- change spark plugs Always buy sum stock NGK for 300zx TT

[comptechgsr]

i am on a budget, so the less the possible (i know i get what i pay for..)
if anything, my only power mods in the near future are exhaust/cutout, intake, and maybe a boost controller...up the boost to 11-12psi.

with this info,
what should i go for...


*new headgasket (is the tomei package really necessary--valvesprings and rockers)

*nismo mounts

*new clutch if the clutch is fried..

*oil pan/water pump

*fuel pump

is that it, can i reduce this list?

[wylin]

oil and water pump just check condition if its f-ed up replace it.

the head gasket i recomend putting atleast the other 2 parts are for high rev. like if u want to rev higher or for the valve spring use a very high lift cam (past 256) then u need the springs, the stopper is cheap thats why we always add it.

new clutch if u can afford it - most times its well worn. might as well get a new one.

fuel pump - u'd be an idiot not to get it.

mounts - ditto get em'

[wylin]

flames are for the ignorant.

Btw this is coming from some one who has had an SR for a while and these are things if he has cash to upgrade. Its optional instead of being rude, u could lend him a hand by saying these parts help.

- motor mounts are sumthing everyone should do, walk over go shake ur motor and figure how much of ur labor is needed to pull it out to fix ur messed up mounts.

- oil pan crushed banging it out is a PITA, For a newbie its better just replace it w/ a stock or upgraded one. Price is realtively close. Plus u get sum added capacity.

- head gasket if ur gonna crank up the boost this is sumthing u should do.

- Valve tran items - if hez gonna do cam might as well doit when the heads off.

- radiator hoses? have u looked at urs recently? probs cracking and dry. Samco ones are cheap might as well replace now.

Flame if u want, i just dont do things half assed because what u dont fix tends to bite u in the ***. Also if u noticed nothing i recomend is even expensive and are typical little stuff u need to fix. Its not like i am whoring and going " buy HKS Type S intercooler (1100$)" , HKS polished hot pipe BOV kit (380$), HKS super suction kit (430$), etc...which is really not needed for a basic swap.

I u got a problem Go flame phase2 for their comprehensive what to fix list. If u cant afford it too bad, thats ur problem not mine.

I learned alota this stuff the hard way in lost time and increased costs of doing small thing one at a time. Thus i stand by my recomendations: because I believe u should just spend everything up front and doit correctly.

http://www.phase2motortrend.com/sr20detinpar.html

[mbmbmb23]

If you are looking to save money in the end, you might as well replace the "hard to get to" stuff right now to avoid mechanic's fees of $40-$60/hour later on (unless you will be willing to drop the tranny yourself to install that new clutch five months down the road....or lift up the engine next year to install new motor mounts).
My list would be:

-New clutch (doesn't have to be the most expensive model)

-Walbro or Z32 fuelpump (look on twinturbo.net in the classifieds...maybe someone just replaced theirs then totalled their car or something)

-Oil pressure gauge, Oil temp gauge, Boost gauge (doesn't have to be pricey JDM brands)

-New engine and tranny mounts (shop around...Nissan Dealerships overcharge on parts. Call around to Pep Boys, Napa, Autozone, etc. ....or go online and compare prices http://www.overnightautoparts.com/ni...40-sx-003.html )

-And of course inspect the water pump and make sure it looks good.



I don't see how people can spend $2,000 to import a motorset, then wanna be cheap and skimp on a few hundred dollars more. Just be patient, you dont have to buy and install all the parts at once. Heck, you could work a second job at night for a few months and earn some extra spending money.

Good luck with your project, keep us updated.



-m

[Pudula]

Originally posted by James

Aren't you listening to what the topic poster is requesting?!
He doesn't need Nismo mounts
He REALLY doesn't need a headgasket or mess with the head
He doesn't need a new oil pan - bang it out!
The guys on a budget and a stock SR in Japan doesn't need/come with all this.
He doesn't need an aluminum radiator- jesus christ!

Yeah, and he doesn't need the ****ing sr20det, so eat **** and die. The things listed are "good things to install" while swapping for preventive maintenance down the road. Replacing a water pump, for instance, on an engine stand is an entirely different animal than doing it with the engine in the car, everyone knows that.

comptechgsr:
If you are running 10-11 psi, you are right, injectors, fuel pump and head gasket will be good...also, replace gaskets that you remove to get to the said parts (spark well, valve cover). Also, its very good to install water pump and thermostat to keep proper cooling. I would just advise to save up the right amount to do the swap right and problem-free. The cost can get up there but you get what you pay for.


Dueces
-Ryan

[wylin]

i forgot 2 very inexpensive and easy to instal items that everyone w/ SR should install.

1. a metal T25 turbo mounting flange gasket - buy from any HKS dealer 25$.

2. S15 multilayer metal manifold gasket (www.jspec.com ) or a HKS metal exhaust manifold gasket. 45$

[NismoGear5]

in the long run, replacing the parts Wylin listed will save you more money and time since you can install those without having to take out the motor.

If I were in the same situation, I can wait a month or 2 to have the money to buy new replacement/enhancing parts for good running SR.

Knowing that your fresh installed SR/Motor will run great = next to priceless

[wylin]

pointless to flame me.

Stop being unconstructive, when we *everyone else on the topic" are being helpful. Nehows im gonna report ur post since ur being a child and relatively rude.

Also b4 u question my knowledge, Ask Dousan or moderator Grant who i am.

and yes i know the stock head gasket is good to bout 11-12 psi. But since the motors out just change it. ur missing the point here, which is preventative mainetence. I've had an SR for while... and these are the things i believe that should be fixed when ur doing a swap, if u have the money. Its not 100% imperitive u fix these items, but it is always nice to do these kinds of mods. But then again from what i gather from ur posts, constant autozone or maybe kragen visits to fix random issues are your forte because u fail to see the point of such safety/ preventive mods.

Then again arguing on there internet is meaningless. U need not listen or respond since hearing my wisdom is beneath ur all mighty knowledge and ability.

[wylin]

like i said pointless. why listen to sumone whose car = my wheels.

[HaLo]

I'm pretty confused here... I've seen people run over 15 psi on t28s daily for years without blowing the headgasket. Is it that necessary? Because I have a T28 at 16 psi daily and haven't had any problems yet.

[DudeYourSoOOJDM]

you guys are both trying to help him in different ways.

One is get it running and go from there

and the other is do everything right before it goes in.

I definately would'nt put the motor in w/o a fuel pump....I DID, regret it.

Do the turbo gasket and manifold gasket.....If your on a beer budget, get the dealer ones.....turbo gasket for 90-96 300zxTT and 91-94 sentra manifold gasket. HKS stuff isn't necessary

Dont even mess w/ the head and head gasket......no need unless theres something wrong.

Oil pan....if it's dented....bang it out.....If it's gone....save for a good one.

GET A BOOST Gauge at least. that is a must have

clutch - replace if bad.....

I tried to do my swap on a budget...but my budget also included $1000 extra for stuff I expected was going to come up.....and guess what, it came up.

If you are scraping money together to just get it running.....I'd save a little bit more for things that can/will be unexpected

[curbsurfer]

i would also change:
oil
spark plugs
z32 fuel filter

if you are installing the motor yourself, dont worry about the clutch or motor mounts unless they are in bad shape. you could always change those later. if you cant do it your self, change those items now to save a bunch in labor cost.

leave your headgasket alone for now. it can be changed in the car
bang out your oil pan if it is dented
get your radiator cleaned and checked at a local rad. shop while it is out. ive done a couple track days on a stock rad. and fan. it should be fine for the time being.

if you have any money left over, please get some sort of brake upgrade.

[mbmbmb23]

Maybe comptechgsr's idea of "being on a budget" is different than ours....therefore you have no right to tell him what he can and cannot afford. It's not like he's spending YOUR money to buy these parts so until he tell's us how much $$ he can afford...or is willding to spend....I think we should assume he has the ability to save up for most things listed in this thread.

Comptechgsr, if you want to skimp....go ahead....just don't come complaining on here (to anyone besides James) when your car breaks down before 2004.



-m

[transient]

James, is it possible for you to have a decent conversation with anyone and not resort to flaming? You've already been banned once and we were nice enough to let you come back; don't push your luck.

Nismo mounts: $200+shipping whereas the stock ones will be fine.

Have you taken a look at your stock mounts lately? The material they're made of is far from indestructable and if the money is there, replacing them is a very good idea.

Headgasket: $200+shipping whereas he won't even be close to the limit of the stock headgasket.

I'll have to agree with you on this one. Changing a head gasket is just as easy while the engine is in the car as while it's out. It'll be fine until you start boosting higher.

Instead of banging out a perfectly good oilpan- $250+shipping for an aluminum one that will crack if it ever hits anything (what oilpan doesn't hit anything?)

Personally, I would never trust an oil pan that's been banged out. That's quite a vital piece and not something to chance.

Aluminum radiator = $450+shipping.....when the stock radiator and an electric fan will do fine.

Well, I was able to find a Koyo for $350.00+shipping in about 2 seconds by searching on google. While it may not be a necessity, it's not a bad idea, and that's partly what the original question was.

I think you recommended a JDM air filter- $170+ shipping when a K+N can be had for $12 on Ebay and come with a MAF adaptor.

Actually he reccomended an Apexi filter which goes for 81.00 plus shipping. Well worth the money over a K&N: Oil in your intake is a bad thing.

If a radiator hose needs replacing get one from an auto parts store for $20- no need for Samco ones for blingbling.

It's more than just bling bling. The samco is a silicone hose which will actually last over time and not crack all to hell.

[elevator]

Given that they are a pain in the *** to change when they blow (and they WILL sooner or later) it would be a good idea to change the gasket betweent the exhaust manifold and the turbine. It is a LOT easier to do with the engine out that after the install.

[mbmbmb23]

MBMBMB23- do your research before handing out rumor and mis-information.

Your right....I guess anyone who simply adds one or two items to your recommended mod list is dispensing "rumors and misinformation".

You make it sound like the original poster said "I have an SR that wont run...and I need to do the very bare minimum to get it bolted in and to fire up". He didn't say that. He wants a list of recommended upgrades that won't break the bank (unlike $3,000 2.2 liter stroker kits, $800 blitz intercoolers, etc.)...so thats what we've been giving him...a recommended list.

The stuff we added to YOUR list is only a few hundred dollars more, especially if you are creative with finding deals on parts.

JAMES- Quit being such a troll with your kneejerk flames. Everytime I read one of your posts you seem so angry, I wondered how you could get such a high post count without getting banned....and then I read this:

James, is it possible for you to have a decent conversation with anyone and not resort to flaming? You've already been banned once and we were nice enough to let you come back; don't push your luck.

....and it all made sense.

Just chill...you are a knowledgible guy on these boards but if you get all riled up flame whenever someone has a different take on things than you....then that knowledge you have to offer is all for nothing.


-m

[old_s13]

I like to speak my opinion, regardless of who I am talking to. I've known Will for many years, he's a pretty good guy.. although, he does **** me off with his arrogance and online, I enjoy shoving my foot up his has. However, I must admit on the "simple suggestions" he gave out, he is more or less CORRECT. James, you are being retarded.. and I will tell you why.

"I want to go SR" "I want to go KA-turbo" blah blah blah, we hear it ALL the time, people looking for BUDGET PERFORMANCE, it doesnt exist. You buy your motor/front clip, whatever. You go through the hassles of installing it. Why not change certain things to save you time in the long run? Unless of course, you enjoy sleeping under your car.. because you'll be spending a lot of time there fixing **** that you could have done the first time around.

I dont care if the person is asking for the cheapest upgrade solutions, that question is too vague and the word CHEAP and EXPENSIVE vary for everyone depending on how much we can AFFORD, thats the bottom line.

So here's the deal, if your motor is OLD and has over 100,000k (miles not kilos), then its a good idea to even do things like head gasket.. because that motor has been driven and being turbo already doesnt help. There are SO many parts that should be cleaned up, rebuilt, etc.. its a shame NOT to. Failing to do this stuff just makes you seem trendy, as if you will sacrifice your time and money just to have an "SR." It doesnt matter WHAT phucking motor it is, take the time to clean it up or dont do it at all. I would talk just as much smack if someone DIDNT do this to their SOHC KA swap. haha..

What did *I* change? Well, my motor had less than 50,000k on it, so I didnt bother with headgasket and internals, that was not necessary. I can understand if the motor had double that mileage, but not 50k. Here is a list of parts I changed, I basically consider these essentials. No, not essentials as if they are 100% needed to make the car RUN, if thats the case, stock radiator and fuel pump will make the car " RUN " -- I am talking about having a setup in which you are comfortable beating up the car because it will WORK, and work well:
- Water Pump/Thermostat
- Large Radiator
- E-Fans
- New Clutch
- Resurfaced or lightened flywheel
- Quality downpipe
- Change all misc. gaskets on motor, esp. turbo gaskets (metal preferred)
- Nuts & studs for turbo
- Belts and hoses
- O2 sensor
- PCV valve
- Engine oil/filter, transmission oil, get an intake if you dont already have one
- Sparkplugs
- Front and rear crank seals

Its not to say that ALL of this stuff MUST be changed, its that chances are.. they WILL need to be changed. If not, atleast inspect the ****.. and last but not least, dont be a trendy bandwagon bastard.

- Mike

[Kid Zelda]

Also make sure you have extra hoses, fuel, vaccum, heater hoses. . etc . you dont want to be sending your buddy to Pep boys, autozone, Napa, nissan dealer to buy the out of stock hoses.

[old_s13]

and last but not least, have plenty of beer and girlies around for the friends that DO help you out.. because we all know they need a lap dance.

ha

[Kid Zelda]

and finally, remember to order DA PUOOOO ..

[the head]

bargian parts alert : if you do a radiator upgrade get a griffin i will post the part number next week along with install pics it set me back 150 for a two row pro core with the correct outlet setup just need to find some hoses for it and finish my bracket fabrication

[mbmbmb23]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2428165302

[DudeYourSoOOJDM]

A rad. shop told me they could get me Griffin 2 row aluminum Rad. made for my car for $119.....I am seriously thinking about going this path.