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Old 09-22-2009, 08:17 PM   #1
NINJASPY
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Removing tint left over film/residue

So, I used a steamer and ammonia to remove the tint from my rear windshield. But there is left over clear plastic film left over. It is not sticky, so ammonia does not work. Steamer does nothing to it either. What can I use that won't damage the rear defroster? acetone? I read some say it damages the rear defroster, some say it does not.

Any ideas?
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Old 09-22-2009, 08:20 PM   #2
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wd40 or goo gone
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Old 09-22-2009, 08:22 PM   #3
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i think autozone sold a tint remover spray
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Old 09-22-2009, 08:35 PM   #4
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i think autozone sold a tint remover spray
they do


its called wd40
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Old 09-22-2009, 08:45 PM   #5
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they do


its called wd40
i guess u know the answer now wd 40 it is
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Old 09-22-2009, 09:05 PM   #6
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should I leave it in there and do the trashbag trick to get it hot? or it spray on wipe off?

note- the left over film is not sticky.
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Old 09-22-2009, 09:28 PM   #7
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razor and simplegreen worked for me just a thought.
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Old 09-22-2009, 10:05 PM   #8
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razor and simplegreen worked for me just a thought.
If you don't want a defrost grid, sure. Try reading the guy's post next time.

SEM makes a solvent called 'SEM SOLVE', basically a high grade laquer thinner that doesn't leave a residue. It's expensive but works great, I did tint for a few years and that was the best thing besides the actual tint suppliers' remover, which is impossible to buy over the counter.
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Old 09-22-2009, 10:07 PM   #9
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simple green did not work. cant use razor for fear one slip might cut up the defroster.
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Old 09-22-2009, 10:35 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by projectRDM View Post
SEM makes a solvent called 'SEM SOLVE', basically a high grade laquer thinner that doesn't leave a residue. It's expensive but works great, I did tint for a few years and that was the best thing besides the actual tint suppliers' remover, which is impossible to buy over the counter.
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simple green did not work. cant use razor for fear
one slip might cut up the defroster.
I don't see anything wrong with using "cheap" lacquer thinner or mineral spirits. But if RDM says it will leave a residue then i'd tend to believe him
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Old 09-22-2009, 10:40 PM   #11
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Tape a black trash bag over the rear window somewhat tightly, spray windex all over the window, seal up the bag where you just sprayed it and let it sit in the sun for the afternoon. It should wipe right off after a little while.
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Old 09-22-2009, 11:02 PM   #12
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use the solvent takes a little while but works!
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Old 09-23-2009, 04:16 AM   #13
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another thing to consider is to use a steam machine, thats what some of the better tint shops do.

one shop says they use chemicals, the other says they use steam. steam is the motherfuckin pimp way of doin it, because it literally eliminates the tint and adhesive.

i purchased my steam machine off amazon for under 1 bill
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Old 09-23-2009, 06:14 AM   #14
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Use the laqure thinner it will smear and leave stuff behind but it will melt all the clear plastic off. After all the clear stuff is melted and your back window is a huge smuge spot use windex and clean it off.
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:32 AM   #15
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would a tint shop be able to do this for me?
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:40 AM   #16
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yeah,
for 50 bucks lol

other guys on here excluding rdm and mike

you guys are telling him how to remove tint,
what hes talking about is tryna remove the residue that's no longer sticky.
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.

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Old 09-23-2009, 11:06 AM   #17
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I used car soap + water and a metal whool pad. The film is gonna break off like the residue after erasing and it's gonna smell funky.
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Old 09-23-2009, 12:38 PM   #18
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Tint shops will do it but they like to get paid. We charged $125-150 for rear windows when I was working in tint, and there was no guarantee we'd save the grid either. Some cars the tint would actually peel the copper film off the grid before you even got to the adhesive.

I actually find it easier to swap the rear glass than the fool with stripping a badly tinted window, takes less time too. I did that on my own car and two others in the past, buying so many salvage cars back in the day I always had extra windows laying around.
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Old 09-23-2009, 02:44 PM   #19
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if your tint was purple and bubbly, you will never get the film off without removing your rear defroster as well. There is no way to do it that does not involve a razor blade and a lot of elbow grease.

Lesson: replace your tint before it turns purple.
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Old 09-23-2009, 02:50 PM   #20
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soap and watter +



U can get ones that dont scratch glass at the supermarket for a couple bux, just get the ones with the white colored rough side

thats how I get rear window tint residue off
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Old 09-23-2009, 03:02 PM   #21
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here.. super easy way.. take black plastic bag and cut it to shape of glass.. ( large garbage bag ). now take windex and soak glass in it.. then put plastic on it as iff you were tinting it with the plastic.. use tape to hold edges on.. plastic stops windex / amonia from evaporating.. now leave it for an hr and come back.. take plastic off and get a corner of tint and pull.. itll all come off super easy.. if not just spray a bit more windex on and take a scrub brush to it..
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Old 09-23-2009, 08:09 PM   #22
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LEARN TO READ. TINT IS OFF. LEFT OVER FILM IS NOT STICKY.

sorry about the caps, but people need to learn how to read.
1. tint is off
2. layer left over is UV FILM
3. the film it is not sticky
4. can't use razor, one slip can potentially damage the defroster
5. tried- windex, soapy water, ammonia, wd40, degreaser, acetone, with trashbags
6. I bought the car with the bad tint.

so far, the bubbled parts come off with a scotch brite "non-scratch" pad

any other ideas? I have not tried lacquer thinner, I doubt its any different from acetone.

I guess I have to replace the whole glass....
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Old 09-23-2009, 09:23 PM   #23
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The problem is that you have separated the 2 layers of the tint and the bottom layer is very hard to remove. Most of the time the only way to remove it is with a razor, but being that the film might be able to be removed by dousing the film with ammonia, that is why you are getting so many replies stating to do so. Unfortunately you removed the tint improperly and now are stuck with this problem.
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Old 09-23-2009, 09:29 PM   #24
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lol,
people are dumb,
i been tryna say the same thing for yah ninja,

but i guess go with a new hatch glass.

EDIT : what car is this on?
lol
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:03 PM   #25
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1. I did not remove it improperly... I used a steam gun, and trashbags followed by ammonia etc etc. Followed all instructions online, from various places etc etc.
2. The tint seperated from the uv film, NOT MY FAULT. Cheap tint.
3. HELP me with ideas or solutions or whatevers OR GTFO.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximamike View Post
The problem is that you have separated the 2 layers of the tint and the bottom layer is very hard to remove. Most of the time the only way to remove it is with a razor, but being that the film might be able to be removed by dousing the film with ammonia, that is why you are getting so many replies stating to do so. Unfortunately you removed the tint improperly and now are stuck with this problem.
thanks for the help
car is 98 s14
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:18 PM   #26
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Razor or new window. I do this for a living, sorry to inform you of your choices.

BTW, just to let you know up until your last 2 posts the only thing that you have mentioned is that simple green did not work. No mention of you trying using any other method except for your initial attempt. I'm pretty sure we were all reading properly and you just all worked up over your window mishap. You asked for help, people gave you suggestions, perhaps you should give some more information before freaking out.

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Old 09-24-2009, 12:11 AM   #27
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dude, he used like everything people recommended,
he doesn't want to use a razor, cause he doesn't want to damage
the defroster lines, if he does, they wont work anymore yahh digg!
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 09-24-2009, 12:33 AM   #28
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ammonia trick work for my hatch! sprayed ammonia(frm dollar tree ) inside then covered it with black bag and left it overnite and peel rite out.
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Old 09-24-2009, 12:37 AM   #29
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he's done all that already.

its the residue thats left over, and its not glue either.
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 09-24-2009, 04:49 AM   #30
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aircraft stripper will take care of the residue
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