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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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How do you decide...
what your car is worth? I know the old saying is that it's only worth what people will pay, but I need to figure a starting point, as I'm considering selling my S13 to move in a different direction.
I've heard you should total up your mods and take half of that number, but I'm curious if anyone here has a good rule of thumb. I've looked through the classifieds but there just aren't many (any) cars similar to mine right now. Any help appreciated.
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E36 M3 - new project 1990 240SR - screamed down the road |
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#5 |
Post Whore!
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Think it's always much easier to part out,
unless you simply don't have the time and/or initiative. 1/2 price of mods seem reasonable, but buyers might not care for that if they don't like your mods. |
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#7 |
Guild of Skullduggerous Intent
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I'm with this, part out is a pita but best way to recoup money.
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#8 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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A part out is probably not an option. I don't have a hoist, and I don't have enough stock parts around to roll the car out of here when it's all over. I did make the mistake of toting up what I've spent on the car over the last 6-7 years; that was stupid. I was really suprised. The number is being withheld to avoid making me look crazier than I really am...
The car is a 1990 S13 coupe. It was auto but converted to 5-speed before I bought it, when the KA-E was still in it. It's originally a California car and then lived in the south (Tennessee) before I got it. It has never seen salt and since I've had it it's only been out in the rain a handful of times. It has NO RUST. Absolutely none. Every time I remove a bolt it's still got the cad-plating on it - suspension, subframe, you name it. Super super clean. I've had the entire interior out and there is no rust lurking anywhere. The paint job is not perfect unfortunately, it was a budget job (not Maaco but a few steps up). It has a run or two in the clear and some orange peel here and there, and since it was painted three years ago it has of course picked up some rock chips, but overall it's in outstanding shape. As of this moment the car makes 290hp at the wheels on 15psi. This is on 93 octane gas and the S15 turbo. The Greddy boost controller allows you to run at 15 (hi), 10 (lo - 260hp) or wastegate pressure for about 235hp and better gas mileage. I made a 1200-mile trip in August and the car didn't flinch, and it got about 30mpg. The car is also really solid. Doesn't rattle, doesn't make funny noises, the air conditioning works great, and when you close the door it just goes thump, no vibration or anything weird. Doesn't overheat, doesn't have any electrical issues, basically everything's there and everything works. Honestly, you could go in any direction with this car. Want a serious track toy? Pull the interior, weld in a cage, and call Ground Control for some stiffer springs and you're done. Drifting? Do the above, and add a clutch-type or welded diff. As it sits it's perfect for street and occasional track days or autocross. Since it's got the PowerFC it would also be seriously easy to add a 2871 and 740cc injectors and re-tune for 350 or 400 horsepower. I also have a bunch of spares that would be included - coilpacks, water pump, ignitor, stock sway bars, etc etc. So, pics and mods (full list): ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Engine: S13 redtop SR20DET engine and transmission -Harness work by Wiring Specialties S15 dual ball-bearing T28 turbocharger -Ebay compressor clocking adaptors Z32 MAF sensor Tomei 555cc fuel injectors Taka Motorsports braided oil/water lines S14 water neck w/ATP banjo fitting Apexi PowerFC engine management -Tuned by Dave Blundell @ TPR Custom intake pipe/filter Forge 007 blow off valve Greddy front mount intercooler/piping Megan Racing O2 housing (Greddy style) TopSpeed 3” stainless downpipe Catco 3” catalytic converter Veilside 3” stainless exhaust X2 Racing 5-quart oil pan Blacktop oil strainer Greddy oil filter relocation kit w/Aeroquip fittings Koyo aluminum radiator Greddy 1.3bar radiator cap Nismo thermostat Altima electric fans Pivot fan controller GK Tech coolant overflow tank Nismo engine and transmission mounts Walbro fuel pump Summit fuel pressure gauge Drivetrain: Spec stage 1 clutch Custom shifter Driveshaft Shop 1-piece steel driveshaft S15 helical limited slip differential and output shafts, in S13 pumpkin Suspension: Front: Tein camber plates Ground Control coilovers 400 lb/in ERS springs Vorshlag upper spring perches Koni 8610 dampers in Pyeatt housings Koni bumpstops Powertrix tension control rods Stealth Custom T/C bracket brace Energy Suspension steering rack bushings Suspension Techniques 27mm sway bar and bushings Cusco strut tower bar Rear: Tein pillowball upper mounts Ground Control coilovers 300 lb/in ERS springs Vorshlag upper spring perches Koni Eclipse dampers Koni bumpstops Powertrix rear upper control arms Powertrix toe links Powertrix traction links Suspension Techniques 21mm sway bar and bushings Peak Performance urethane subframe bushings RP Sport subframe braces Ebay strut tower bar Brakes: Front: Z32 300ZX 30mm aluminum 4-piston calipers Hawk HPS pads SPL Parts Stainless braided lines Attain 5-lug hubs, ARP extended studs Rear: Z32 300ZX aluminum 2-piston calipers Z32 emergency brake assemblies Z32 2+2 emergency brake cables Carmo e-brake cable adapters Hawk HPS pads SPL Parts Stainless braided lines Z32 5-lug hubs, ARP extended studs Bicho Performance master cylinder stopper Wheels/tires: R33 Skyline GTR wheels – 17x9, +30 f/r 235/40/17 Nitto NT05 Body: S13 Silvia front end conversion JDM amber/clear turn signals GTR-style grille Rear fender roll M3-style trunk lip spoiler Silvia trunk lock Dual projector headlights, converted to LHD, fogs wired to popup circuit and de-yellowed Diamond Graphite Paint by Painter’s Lane Interior: S15 seats Jet steering wheel Nismo shift knob Redline Goods leather shift and e-brake boots Stripped door panels Plaid accents S14 seat belts AC Autotechnic oil pressure gauge AC Autotechnic boost/vacuum gauge PowerFC Commander with windshield mount Pivot water/oil temperature readout Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller PowerFC Commander readout JDM speedometer, converted to MPH JDM tachometer, 7500 RPM redline JVC headunit Alpine 6.5” speakers all around Boss powered subwoofer
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E36 M3 - new project 1990 240SR - screamed down the road |
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#9 |
Post Whore!
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thats a quality car, but honestly, 240s are for teens and they arent gonna pay much to get one really. if some older person buys it, they might pay you more.
i'd say 9k is the price i'd pay for it. when i sold my 240, i lost roughly 60% of what i paid for it
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lexus baby |
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#11 |
Zilvia Addict
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^^^Hells no to 6k!!! Cali cars is sold for WAY cheaper than most places if you ask me. Why? Too many 240sx in california. I would say 9k in ca but more elsewhere. Anyone offer me 6k for a car like that, i would slap them silly. Super clean car, i would be willing to pay 9k if i had the money.
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#12 |
Zilvia Member
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The way I look at things is the point of view that some home oweners take. The variables such as how rare these cars are (especially coupes), the fact that clean 240's are becoming more rare, the fact that many people want them, along with a few other factors make the 240 market a "sellers market" should say that these cars should sell for more money.
When the people who are selling their cars take 2-3k less than what they might otherwise get only drops the value of the cars. Kelly Blue Book and NADA base A LOT of what the car is worth from how much the cars are being sold for in a given area. I say that car looks REALLY REALLY clean and unless you sell it to a close friend, don't sell it for less than 9k. Every 240 owner out there needs to get their heads out of their butt and realize that these cars are worth something. I know times may be tough but hell, if every 240 owner stands their ground, the value goes up. This concept is similar to how Arabic oil merchants, diamond merchants, and so on keep the prices up for these comodities. |
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#13 |
Nissanaholic!
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thats a very classy car u got there. I think thats a keeper. I would probly pay what ever u asked if i could afford it lol.
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1994 toyota supra...... n-a D= 1992 nissan 240sx KA24E-T fully Built =D |
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#14 | |
Nissanaholic!
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that is a extremly clean car. because of that i would firmly say that your car is worth 8,500 anywhere in the country.
i would just part it out though end thread
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#15 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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$6k...its still an 1990 S13 chassis with an SR with bolt ons and suspension work. Atleast thats what I would be willing to pay for it. But hey, if you get $9k for, more power to you. I've seen S14s with bolt ons like yours go for $9-10k.
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#16 | |
Guild of Skullduggerous Intent
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Quote:
but you got to take into account that the majority of the market for our cars are teenagers who still live at home and probably make minimum wage 9k is simply out of the price range of most of them |
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#17 |
Admin Asshole
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Just for n00b reference:
1/2 the price of the mods only works for real parts. If the car was built with knock-offs, then it was only worth half of what you paid for them, brand new. Now it's worth less then 1/4 the price of the Mods. Note: This does not necessarily apply to the vehicle in question in this thread. ![]()
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"Speak softly,..." -Pres. Teddy Roosevelt "Be polite, be professional, ..." -Gen. James Mattis |
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#19 |
Post Whore!
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8k max for sure
yeah its nice but cars arent investments. you'll always take a loss less of a loss if u part out, but then u just need time and the self control not the spend the money as it comes in, slowly |
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#20 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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I know I'll never get all my money back. I wasn't counting on it. I'm not sure whether I'll sell or not, but I'm trying to come up with a starting point. I might consider parting out but I don't have the space or the time, it's just not possible.
Seriously, if we did this for the money, none of us would do it for long 'cause we'd go broke. I appreciate all the input so far. Anyone else want to weigh in?
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E36 M3 - new project 1990 240SR - screamed down the road |
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#21 | |
Zilvia Member
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Quote:
I see your point. It does suck for some teenage kids to be limited on funds but the fact that there are people out there with money to spend means that the seller should control the market. Hell, I'd rather wait to sell my car to someone who has saved their pennies and is more mature than sell it to some ignorant fool kid. If it takes months and months to sell your car for your desired price so be it. Supply and demand...you want my supply, I demand a lot of money, lol. I've been going back and forth on selling my S13 coupe for awhile now. I love the car but I want a newer car with AWD for a daily. I know I won't get crap for a trade-in and I might not get the money I want for it but I'll be damned if I sell if for $2000 to some retard 19 year old who is going to wrap in around a pole in a week because he never drove a rwd car with a 2way lsd. |
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#22 | |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Quote:
Besides...who cares what the person who bought your car does to it. Shit, my car has been parted out and sitting at some junkyard in norcal. Waste of a fucking S14 kouki if you ask me but it aint my car anymore once I signed over the title and spent the money to pay off my bills. |
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#24 |
BANNED
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There is currently a "Race" Kouki in Gainesville for 9k. It' got more power and better mods than this car.
I'm just saying this car is 20 years old. People don't want to pay 9k for a car that's 20 years old. I suggest either parting out or keeping it. It' really the only way. Unless you wanna part ways with the whole thing for 4,500 because I guarantee that's what people are going to offer you in cash. |
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#25 |
R.I.P. Aya, always love
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I would say 6-8k is its value, in a good market. Honestly you have one clean car set up right. In light of all that it falls into what I call the category of do not sell it unless you get exactly what you want for it.
That's the position I am taking on my car. If I don't get what I want? I will keep it plain and simple. In fact they way I have built it I do not mind keeping it. I see your car the same way. Its clean, its nice, its a great example of Silvia face coupe. Nearly all of your car is quality parts outside of the Powertrix Ruca's and suspension parts ![]() I would say if you were willing to sell it for 4500 like someone said, shit I would buy it. LOL Honestly if I had that car I would have a hard time selling it just because its so clean. Like I said earlier it falls into the "I am not going to sell it unless I get what I want category" I.E. big bucks or go home.
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#27 |
Zilvia Addict
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i agree with the "do not sell it unless you get exactly what you want for it". its a nice car man. keep it. save your cash for awd and get that later. unless of course you really need it.. i just dont really see the point in selling it if you know you probably wont get much out of it. i know i wont sell mine anytime soon. id love awd for winter but ill get that next year when i get a real job hopefully:]
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WTB: 1/24 scale chuki s13 model. |
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#28 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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yup part out is best way, that car is really clean but it will be hard to get 8k for it cus its not your typical slammed aero'd s chassis its alot cleaner more subtle car.
glws!!! |
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#29 |
Post Whore!
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8-9k easily if you can find a buyer.. Never lower your price, anything lower and suggest the buyer go buy some ragtag POS car.
Sometimes though if you cant find a buyer, do a trade for a car of similar value. Thats what I have done, traded my build s13 for a benz, than benz to this rx7 which was being sold for 8-9k, when alot of people will say FCs aint worth that much.. my old s13 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7.../100_10593.jpg to this http://tunerbase.com/temp/benz/becky3.JPG than to this http://www.drifting.com/forums/buy-a...350-socal.html You can always set your price and look for someone willing to trade, than go from there etc. car with higher price and tasteful mods are worth it long as they where built properly, wont be a POS.
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Keep it Classy |
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#30 |
Zilvia Junkie
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honestly, in technical terms (like trade in or insurance value) it's not worth any more than a stock 90 240 in your region. But luckily for you it is worth more to people who are interested in everything that you have into it. I've heard that for those people you should take anywhere from 25-50% of the value of the parts (not any labor) and add that to the value of the car, however it also depends on age, wear, brand, and all that. I would say people are accurate throwing out around 9k for a clean well done car for the right buyer. Obviously part out you could get much more, but that is a logistical pain in the ass.
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