Om1krons Build thread cause I hate the lack of them! S14

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by codyace

The car is reacting like one that would be in limp mode.

I know this sounds funny, but how is the diagnostic screw on the ECU itself?

I've only turned it once to check the codes, it randomly threw the same codes it did before... water temp, knock sensor, and maf when my fuel pump died. I turned the car off and turned it back on and the codes went away. (Threw a 55) As you can see in the video water temp to the cluster itself doesn't work, but neither do the odometer and the other little 4 number indacator that I am putting mileage on it.

I do believe this cluster has been tampered with. But again that's not a problem because the temp sensor for the ecu is completely separate. And I've put a new one on the car.

I've seen cars develop oddness like this when screws are half ass broken, or over adjusted etc etc. Part throttle all the way to redline, but unhappy when goosing it (just like your video)

Yeah I doubt it's that, I know how to read instructions my man so it's where it's supposed to be for the car to operate. Solid red light when key is on the on position. Letting me know the car is ready.

Another thing to potentially check is the condition of the MAFS and the CAS itself.

The Mafs I just replaced, I kept the old broken mafs just in case, I got a video of my idle because when the car is in limp mode it runs rich and shoots out black smoke and backfires. This also will happen if I remove my knock sensor resistor and the car wont drive past 3000 rpms.

The cas on the other hand could be the culprit, my hot pipe literally touches it. And may have damaged it, visually it looks fine. But I know electronics normally aren't heated to 200 degree's either.

These is the same harness and same components you've always had/used?

The engine used to be in an s13, the harness was converted for an s14 that's the only difference. Once the harness was converted and I removed 5 feet of unnecessary wiring from the knock sensor, that whole deal stopped working.

One day we did turn the s13 on without a battery in it just to move it. Stuck a battery in, started the car removed battery and moved the car to pull the engine. It ran funny of course but I don't know what caused that.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

As you can see in the video water temp to the cluster itself doesn't work, but neither do the odometer and the other little 4 number indacator that I am putting mileage on it.

Sometimes people tap into the cas signal to get tach signal to make it all work. You see this on s13 harnesses especially. It could be a poor connection here being the lack of tach culprit, but this connection wouldn't be intermittant in regard to how it ran

Originally Posted by Om1kron

Yeah I doubt it's that, I know how to read instructions my man so it's where it's supposed to be for the car to operate. Solid red light when key is on the on position. Letting me know the car is ready.

I'm not doubting your ability to read, just doubting the crappy 20 year old ECU's we all like to tinker with. I've had ones where the tape is still OE, and you goto do a quick diag and it's like fubar from the get go.

If these jiggles into the slightest bit of diag mode, the car do EXACTLY what you are experiencing...when I first got my SR running ages ago, it did what your car is doing...this is why I always check that little POS screw out as some of the lamest electrical problems can result from that thing not being happy.

Again, food for thought. Maybe not your solution, but something to keep in mind.

Originally Posted by Om1kron

This also will happen if I remove my knock sensor resistor and the car wont drive past 3000 rpms.

The car throws a 34 anytime it drives with knock hooked up right? What about going to the junkyard and grabbing any ole knock sensor, and just attaching it to the frame/some other place just to make the circuit happy, but disregard knock? I know it sorta defeats the purpose of the KS, and that your resistor may work, but if removing it causes the car to run like crap as well...then I'd also be looking into whatever you did with the KS

Originally Posted by Om1kron

The cas on the other hand could be the culprit, my hot pipe literally touches it. And may have damaged it, visually it looks fine. But I know electronics normally aren't heated to 200 degree's either.

Hard to say. That big plastic covering is just that...just a big plastic covering. If you take yours apart you'll see most of the electronics and the ring are way down inside it. It's worth a shot though with these. They can go bad. Look at FWD Sentras and Honda guys...when dizzys go bad, it sound similar to your car as well. If the signal is messy messy, it could send improper signal to fire the c-packs, and well, that'll happen. Those stupid CAS's are really chinsey inside too... almost scarey to th ink that's how they all work ya know?


I'd start be re-introducing the KS that you removed, and look at whatever was done to convert it to the s14 harness. If it ran before, and the engine was all happy before, then you just gotta look at what was changed. It's an electrical issue for sure, so I'd spend less time looking at hardware (pipes leaks etc etc) at this point, as it's not going to fix the stumble.