Om1krons Build thread cause I hate the lack of them! S14

[OBEEWON]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

So I took the nut off and the pully, wrapped the belt around it and pulled it back over it's stud, screwed on the nut and secured it temporarily with the gum I was chewing.

The throttle position sensor I grabbed two zip ties and tied it down in place for the time being.

LOL, thats some McGuyver ish. Are you sure you aren't Jamaican??


For real. The car is just working its problems out. Dont be too discouraged. You'll get everything worked out I'm sure. Wish I could give you the answer but looks like you've been over everything I can think of or someone has mentioned it.

But the fact that the ECU is giving you 55 makes me suspect a MAF. ECU won't see a bad MAF, and the idle test/limp mode test is not 100% fool proof. OR there is a leak that opens up at boost.

Can you drive smoothly past 4 grand without boosting or does it break up either way?

A) If it's under boost I had an issue with my spark blowing out due to gap (I was at 22 psi).

B) Or it could be a bad coil pack, they break up intermittently when going bad especially higher rpm under boost. Check them for cracks.

C) Also check your timing. Restab the CAS per FSM, even go as far as checking the dimples on the chain.

[s13pignose]

Originally Posted by OBEEWON

LOL, thats some McGuyver ish.

Beat me to it lol, sick work.

[codyace]

If you did the wiring, I'd just recheck what I've done at that point and go from there. I (myself) dont' trust myself with the wiring stuff...to me it's cheaper to just pay 100 bucks to get it done...man oh man I'd be wanting to shoot people over wire issues. As I tell my buddies...I'll stick with engine building

Originally Posted by OBEEWON

But the fact that the ECU is giving you 55 makes me suspect a MAF. ECU won't see a bad MAF, and the idle test/limp mode test is 100% fool proof. OR there is a leak that opens up at boost.

Most certainly. ECU's will not always show all fault codes. I never thought about suggesting that.

However the stumper, is that hte car will rev and pull to redline, so long as he doesn't go WOT immediatly...but can at redline...it's very odd.

Did you watch the video? It's not a hardware issue if you ask me...electronical for sure (including maf/sensors). I'm just confused as to why it's depending on part throttle...maybe it's reverting to some sort of wacky pull timing map, but it shouldn't restrict the RPM's from revving...which is why I initially thought it was failsafe mode of some sort, or the stupid ecu holding out...it's just odd odd odd.

[OBEEWON]

Originally Posted by codyace

However the stumper, is that hte car will rev and pull to redline, so long as he doesn't go WOT immediatly...but can at redline...it's very odd.

If this is the case then I would get on a dyno and look for a leak opening up at positive pressure.

I had a hairline crack on my hotpipe that opened up to about 1/8 inch under pressure. Couplers and aluminum charge pipes especially like to open up when boost is climbing. Usually found on the higher pressure side of the intercooler before the pressure drop.