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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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WTF is wrong with this car.
3 days ago i woke up and my car would not start.
OK... first thing i did was 1. Checked the battery (it was low so i got it recharged) I threw the battery back on and still nothing. Fans turn on and lights turn on but i only get the relay click when i try and turn the car on. 2. I ran a direct wire to where the starter signal wire plugs in and ran it straight to the battery, still nothing, the starter did click, but the car did not start. So i pulled the starter and got it tested (passed) . I threw the starter back on and tried the hammer tap but car still wont start. 3. I tried push starting the car and it wouldnt start, so i pull the alternator and i get it tested . Alternator fails everything, so i buy a new one and throw it on. Still wont start, only getting the relay click. So pretty much what im asking is what else can i check? Tomorrow im checking the ECU, Continuity, ignitor, coil packs and grounds. Am i missing anything? Could it be the relay on the wire that hooks up to the battery? i believe it runs to the fuse box. Any help would be much appreciated. ![]() |
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#2 |
Zilvia Junkie
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direct wire from where to where? battery to starter?
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#3 |
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yes. i hooked the wire up the little metal piece where the signal wire goes to then with the other end just touched the battery. Not sure if i did this right but from what i looked up that was how they explained it. |
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#5 | |
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How sure are you that the battery is good? Have you tried using a known good battery?
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#6 |
Post Whore!
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^^I wasn't hesitant to post that.
Sometimes the starter circuit making a click could mean your battery cannot put out enough amperes to crank granted the voltage may be high enough. It's happened to me and on several different cars. |
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#7 |
Post Whore!
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I had the same problem a while back and it was my alternator.
What alternator did you get? I've seen brand new aftermarket alternators fail. Also try using a known good battery. |
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#8 |
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if you tested your battery and starter and they both pass, and your car will not crank, then its either the clutch start relay, bad battery, or bad ground. THERE CAN NOT BE ANYTHING ELSE WRONG WITH YOUR CAR. try wiggling the ground to the intake manifold, and make sure you have good battery terminals that make good contact
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#9 |
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The bad alternator drained the battery. Check it again. I've also had the same problem before. I had to replace my battery and have had the same optima since.
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#10 |
Leaky Injector
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the solenoid could be bad. it will still click, but not actually engage the starter or allow it to spin. when they check it at a parts store, they don't check the solenoid, only the starter motor itself. i did a write up on this on another forum.
SR20 starter problems? - Carolinanissans.com frankie |
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#11 |
Nissanaholic!
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I think its gonna be the battery, sometimes depending on the battery you have you have to use a agm battery charger, somebody correct me if I am wrong.
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#12 |
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Have you tried jumping the solenoid signal wire straight to power? A common cause of no-start issues on 240's is the ignition switch. If it starts when you jump the little signal wire straight to power then the switch is likely bad. They lose contact and can't relay enough amperage to actually kick the starter in. I had it happen to my car and a couple other 240's as well, both s-13 and s-14.
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#16 | ||
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#17 | ||||
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The only thing that worries me is that i cant even push start the car even with a new alternator. If the ignition switch was bad or if the starter was bad i should still be able to push start correct? Im checking voltage and continuity and the ECU today. If i have extra time im swapping starters. |
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#18 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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if you can't push start, then it's not your starter.
i'd now start checking to make sure everything has good clean contact such as your main ground cables and alternator cables and battery terminals... i'm talking shiny metal clean with a file/wire wheel/sand paper. check your big 75a fusible links. |
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#19 | |
Post Whore!
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Quote:
Or the starter is dead.
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#20 | |
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im aiming towards the starter as well...you changed alternator, charged battery...im assuming you checked ur 75A fuse and its good...?
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#21 | |
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yeah all that stuff was checked. end result: i went back out and before i tore this bitch into pieces, i went through all my wiring again and double checked and made sure everything was getting power, checked my grounds , etc. So i decided to unplug the starter relay and clean it up a bit, threw it back on and boom, car fired up. ![]() thanks for all the replies guys, zilvia comes through again :ghey: |
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#22 |
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Though you did have the battery checked, I say check it yourself. Same thing happened to me with a short in the harness due to an accident (caused a drain). Took it to Kragen and everything checked out. But when trying to start the car, it would drop to 8-9 volts (static it was 12.4). Have another person check it with a multimeter while your trying to start it.
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#23 | |
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read the post above you, Car started already. thanks for the info though = ) |
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#24 |
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This happened to me. Is the car manual? If so, check the neutral position switch (that click you hear when you fully press the clutch pedal), if it's broken/missing, just put a bolt/screw so that there can be contact. I discovered that on accident
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#26 | |
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Car was started a few post back ![]() |
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#27 | |
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i swear...these cars...its always the small shit that gets you...good shit though... ![]()
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#30 |
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FUCK! so i went back out just to quadruple check and make sure the car turns on and BOOM! shits doing the same thing again.
Since the car started i know the starter is fine, grounds are good, battery is good and relays are good. I dont need to have the clutch pushed to turn my car on so i know that little clip behind the clutch is not broken. only thing left is that my ignition switch is failing. Any other ideas guys? |
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