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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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Is a KA24DE intake manilfd weldable?
The reason I ask is because I removed my secondary butterfly valves in my s13 KA and now I need to plug up the holes. I called this welder that was recommended to me and he was asking me all these questions about what type of aluminum was the intake made out of and he was also telling me cast aluminum might have some different metals in it that might not be weldable. He's a good guy and he's not trying to hussle me out of money (he's charging me like 20-30 bucks). I just would like to answer his question. Thanks in advance.
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It's aluminum. Of course you can weld it.
But you don't have to. There's only two places open to atmosphere. The center set screw that holds the butterfly rod is one, and you can put the set screw back in to seal it. The other is the outer hole where the rod slides in, drill/tap it for a bolt and screw it in. 4 minutes total downtime and zero cost. We have also discussed this since 1991. Don't think you're the first. You aren't.
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Quote:
But they are definitely not the type of alloys that are used to make mass production cast intake manifolds. So yes, the intake mani is perfectly weldable. That said, why not just take Russ' advice and do some drill/tapping with a little bit of epoxy(like JB weld or the like) to seal it up.
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I was thinking of doing that too, I've never used JB weld but I was worried that when I boost the engine the pressure might become a problem? I would like to plug up the holes so there is nothing to disturb the air flow.
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I used JB Weld to cap the SCVs, PCV ports, and a few others outlets, as well as to secure new vacuum nipples I added so I didn't have to T off everything. Car is boosted, no leaks. JB Weld when mixed correctly is damn near impossible to break, actual welding is indeed more permanent but not everyone has access to a really good welder. The guy I use is awesome but he charges what he should for it and lives about 45 minutes away, so not everything is worth the drive and cost when I can do it for a $4 tube of epoxy.
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x2 on the JB weld. I put the set screw back in, and used JB to fill the hole in the back of the manifold. Been boosted for 2 years now and no leaks. Drill and tap is a great idea, I would have done that if I would have thought about it.
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#8 |
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Drill/tap + JB Weld for sealant = NEVER coming out.
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