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Old 02-15-2010, 05:29 PM   #1
omgRWDgoodness!
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Make sure you solder the resistor inline with the POSITIVE (longer) end, or anode, to hook it up to standard 12v power.

Also, don't bother trying to get the film off the back of the gauge faces. I tried doing that by sanding the film off and only did the tachometer before I gave up because 1) the speedometer needle wasn't coming off, and 2) it doesn't make much of a difference. The light shines through only marginally brighter. Save yourself the time & effort, and the fact that it's damn near impossible to get your tach needle back on accurately so it reads the exact RPM.
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:31 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omgRWDgoodness! View Post
Make sure you solder the resistor inline with the POSITIVE (longer) end, or anode, to hook it up to standard 12v power.



Also, don't bother trying to get the film off the back of the gauge faces. I tried doing that by sanding the film off and only did the tachometer before I gave up because 1) the speedometer needle wasn't coming off, and 2) it doesn't make much of a difference. The light shines through only marginally brighter. Save yourself the time & effort, and the fact that it's damn near impossible to get your tach needle back on accurately so it reads the exact RPM.
That sucks. I was about to try it myself but i was hoping it would be easier. Thanks for the info.

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Originally Posted by afiser View Post
how did you go about wiring up the resistor with yours?
About the resistor wiring. Let me try to make this simple.

You have a Positive lead (wires coming off the LED bulb) and a Negative Lead.
1)The Proper Resistor is placed between your power source and the Positive Lead on the LED bulb.
2)The Negative Lead is connected to your Negative connection (opposite post from resistor).
3)If no resistor is used they will burn out very quickly.

4)Below are some rough examples of LEDs with resistors. You should always solder your connections for the best results.



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Old 02-15-2010, 10:35 PM   #3
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pics of the luxer1 lights (www.leddomelight.com) as requested:

stock with flash


LED with flash


stock with no flash


LED with no flash


the rears look the same, but the LED bulbs look more visible when off.

just for fun:
cluster from LED's from www.superbrightleds.com (WLED-x5 LED Wide Angle LED bulb)



i don't like the hotspots...but i don't care how many KPH i go anyway lol
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Old 02-16-2010, 04:05 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFWZenki View Post
That sucks. I was about to try it myself but i was hoping it would be easier. Thanks for the info.



About the resistor wiring. Let me try to make this simple.

You have a Positive lead (wires coming off the LED bulb) and a Negative Lead.
1)The Proper Resistor is placed between your power source and the Positive Lead on the LED bulb.
2)The Negative Lead is connected to your Negative connection (opposite post from resistor).
3)If no resistor is used they will burn out very quickly.

4)Below are some rough examples of LEDs with resistors. You should always solder your connections for the best results.
THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE PICS!

exactly what i wanted. thanks again.

one question tho, it seems so simple that im not sure about it. could you put the resistor on the 12v wiring going TO the button out side of the actual button? i know the fsm shows which wires are positive and which ones are negative going to the button. im just not 100% sure.
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Old 02-26-2010, 03:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afiser View Post

one question tho, it seems so simple that im not sure about it. could you put the resistor on the 12v wiring going TO the button out side of the actual button? i know the fsm shows which wires are positive and which ones are negative going to the button. im just not 100% sure.
to follow up on this post

i put resistors on the illumination wire going to the buttons i changed to led's instead of putting it on the bulb and it seems to work totally fine. just put the resistor on the red with blue strip wire (12v illumination) that goes to the button and thats it. i put led's in my power window button (which was a bitch had to use hot glue to keep the led in place and still have power) and the defrost button and both buttons still function perfectly.
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