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Old 06-07-2010, 08:07 AM   #1
turbo2nr
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BC cam install problem

installed bc cams KA24DE to spec via fsm:

flipped cams around, cut off end, made sure timing is correct ect..

car will start but not hold idle.. re checked everything 3x.

my latest update:

ok heres where im at..

went back through everything sunday.

checked:
- cam sproket timing chain placement
- made sure motor was at TDC comp.
- re aligned dissy made sure the rotor was dead on #1 spark plug
- made sure the firing order was correct and spark plug was in the correct order
- cleaned plugs
- checked sensors (maf,iat,coolent temp)
- checked wiring harness for maf/iat/dis cap/ coolent temp.
- checked all of couplers to make sure they were tight
- checked maf voltage got from, .5v ignition/ 1.2v cranking/1.5-3.1 reving
- checked tps - 3.5v ignition
- looked at fuel rail for leaks and bad connections

fired up the car, she started right up but still doesnt hold idle on cold start. still floods and dies i need to hold throttle at 5-9%. cannot rev past 4k loose of power, vac is -10 @ 5%throttle

once the car is warm vac is around -18-19, the rich issue is gone because it is now in closed loop, and the car will hold idle for 1-2 min then die. the idle is low 500 to 700 rpms and it bounces.

looked at timing with a timing light and its around 20-18btdc which is where its suppose to be. still cannot rev past 4k due to lose of power and it will still choke and die. a/f is around 15.5:1.

when i free rev it from 1000-3000 i can hit 2-4psi free reving no load on the motor. but i stil cant rev past 4k, and i look at the maf voltage while reving its around 2.7v@3k

so im stumped as far as i see it everything is correct but my car still isnt running..

any help will be appericated, havent had a working car for 2months..

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Old 06-08-2010, 07:04 AM   #2
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bump?

help plz
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Old 06-09-2010, 07:04 AM   #3
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sounds like your iac is bad from the rev bouncin up down or your maf sensor is screwed some how wiring to it is messed up or somethin if it wont let u rev...
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Old 06-09-2010, 07:05 AM   #4
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if its 95 or newer hook a scanner up to it and you can see what your car is doin
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Old 06-09-2010, 07:12 AM   #5
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the maf and iac is fine i checked the voltage and its withing spec.

does anyone have or can take a pic of the stock cam gear at TDC, i think i may be off a tooth from the cam gear. my alignment dots are at 12'oclock and 2' oclock.

looking at the fsm it seems like its suppose to be at 11'oclock and 1:30. can anyone confirm?
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Old 06-09-2010, 08:49 AM   #6
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I can tell you with complete confidence that BC cams are complete and utter garbage. I can also tell you with complete confidence that BC's cam quality is only surpassed in garbage by thier customer service. Save yourself money and frustration and take them out.

I know you don't want to hear this.

I didn't want to hear it.

I didn't listen.

Untill t'was too late.

Don't be like me. Save yourself and your engine.
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Old 06-09-2010, 07:47 PM   #7
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ok one more shot then if not stock cams back in..

ok i think i found out my issue. i believe that my timing is off from the idler pulley.

the mark on the idler pulley doesn't line up with the orange mark on the chain.



that pic is how my cam timing is currently .



now what i believe that i have to do is: shift the cam gear "1" tooth to the clockwise and move the chain over 1/2 a link to correspond so now all the marks (intake/exhaust/idler pulley) will be in sink



as show by red lines in above pic.

NOW by doing so i will have to turn the camshaft to match the new position of the key-ways, causing the intake lobe on cyld #1 to move slightly upward and also causing the exhaust lobe on cyld #1 to move slightly downward. will that be ok that the lobes move like that? or will it cause clearance issues?

when its all said and done it should look like this: (pick taken from babowc bc cam install 2008)



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

please help me figure this out
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Old 06-10-2010, 07:37 AM   #8
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bump! wheres all the tecks!
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Old 10-20-2010, 10:39 PM   #9
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what stage cams is this forum about? cause i have had some problems with mine running just right i have bc stage 2 cams....cant get them set just right. I know a little old but great pictures man
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Old 10-21-2010, 07:17 AM   #10
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if you got a thin piece of metal like a brake hard line,take your #1 plug out and put that in the whole so u can make sure you a tru tdc when u turn the motor by hand..then set you cams to stock location and then the dissy to the #1 plug wire which is around 10/11 o clock..make sure it right on #1 or a lil before it n you should be koo..i had to play with timing jus a lil bit when i installed my bc stage 2 cams..its a pain..oooh make sure the timin mark on the crank pully is at stock location to
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Old 10-21-2010, 07:18 AM   #11
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yup intake cam is installed on exhaust side n exhaust cam is on the intake side
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Old 10-21-2010, 05:47 PM   #12
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i just switched my cams around and everything is lined up with the chain and matting marks is on tdc and looks just like your pictures...but it starts but has no power. i checked the dizzy with timing light and it is 20 btdc on the last mark left to right. when using stage 2 cams u just use stock timing marks right?
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Old 10-21-2010, 10:18 PM   #13
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what size cams did you install?
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Old 10-21-2010, 10:56 PM   #14
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bc stg 2 cams
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Old 10-22-2010, 06:38 AM   #15
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what motor work do u have done??
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Old 10-22-2010, 06:42 AM   #16
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if your stock internaly you really not gonna feel a power difference even with basic bolt-on's,definitly with the stock intake manifold
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Old 10-22-2010, 08:58 AM   #17
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well i have had problems with getting it run right before but i had it running good a couple times and it pulled awesome and it changes the sound quiet a bit of the motor. I got the cams and stg 2 springs so mainly i could bounce it off seven with outstressing the top end so much bottom end can hold up but i have always had springs break up top. My motor is rebuilt with 9to1 cp pistons stock rods bc cams and springs, intake header exhaust. once i get it tuned with all motor it will run good so i can break it in. not much but enough to make a difference... i am going to boost thats y it is 9 to 1 so i can drive it all motor for a while its not to sluggish. I have nistune, injectors are already installed for turbo cause i thought i was going to do it earlier but im going to wait and i got a walbro fuel pump
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Old 10-22-2010, 09:26 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OBEEWON View Post
I can tell you with complete confidence that BC cams are complete and utter garbage. I can also tell you with complete confidence that BC's cam quality is only surpassed in garbage by thier customer service. Save yourself money and frustration and take them out.

I know you don't want to hear this.

I didn't want to hear it.

I didn't listen.

Untill t'was too late.

Don't be like me. Save yourself and your engine.

Why do you say this?
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Old 10-23-2010, 06:24 PM   #19
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it was my injectors. i will have to have guy see what went wrong with the nistune to make it start dumping so much fuel. i switched to stock injectors and computer and revs up fine just got to change plugs, oil etc... and check everything to tweak it back out cause it sputters when you first get into it........ then im going to get it dyno tuned to get a good break in before turbo which now could be longer than expected
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Old 10-23-2010, 09:14 PM   #20
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At least you got it resolved good deal
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:02 AM   #21
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well now it doesnt even really pull hard like it should until 5500 or 6000 all the way to 7 and it kicks hard like vtec but before that it doesnt do hardly anything so now im really confused. it revs up fine with no load and doesnt really sputter first getting into it...
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:14 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaredpignoseDE View Post
well now it doesnt even really pull hard like it should until 5500 or 6000 all the way to 7 and it kicks hard like vtec but before that it doesnt do hardly anything so now im really confused. it revs up fine with no load and doesnt really sputter first getting into it...
Well thats what cams do. It moves the power band into the higher rev ranges. Thats why you pick the cams for the purpose. You dont want 290 degree cams when you just putting around town.

Most say the the 256in/264ext is perfect for the KA/SR that gonna see street and track duty. Keeps a usable power band without running out of breath in the top end.

But as far absoultley no low end power or torque that sounds fishy. From going back and reading all you problems i think that you need to degree your cams.

BC cams are notorius for not being drop in cams like the GReddy easy cams or HKS cams are. You need to it take somewhere and have them degreed. You could it yourself there is a good tutorial on youtube by 2 bros racing on how to degree cams but it's a little advandced for novice mechanics. I bet thats your problem, if its not a fuel issue.

You cams should of came with a little card that has all the degree setting on them. Use the values there to set the degree.
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:55 AM   #23
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yea i know no low end power thats what i said..... yea i figured it would kick in high but once it does it pulls like a son of a ..... i have read up on degreeing but for someone else to do that in the car wouldnt that cost a fortune? do you think that having stock computer would make them not do as good on low end?
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