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Old 09-30-2010, 10:30 PM   #1
younghatchowner
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FOR THE LOVE OF GOD AN ALL THAT IS HOLY read

i dont have spark yet..son of a mutha fucking bitch..i changed the coil..power transistor..distributor and still getting the code 21..help me pleasse...i hear things about people asking are the injectors clicking.power to this and that.....

CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME..I HAVE HAD MY CAR DOWN FOR ABOUT 5-6 MONTHS IM ONLY 17 ALL I ASK IN LIFE IS FOR MY GOD DAMN CAR TO RUN..ITS FULLY BUILT FOR CHRIST SAKE SOMEONE GET HELP GET THIS DAMN CAR RUNNING I NEED STUFF TO CHECK THINGS TO TRY A LOGICAL EXPLAINATION FOR WHY THE fFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFUCK I DONT HAVE SPARK..PLEASE SOME KIND OF WRITE UP NEEDS TO BE MADE FOR THIS DAMN CODE 21 PROBLEM...ALSO YESTERDAY I HAD CODE 21 AND 11....THEN CODE 11 GOES AWAY(I STILL CHANGED THE DIZZY ANYWAYS) NOW I ONLY HAVE CODE 21 WTFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:41 PM   #2
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Code 11 pertains to the Cam position sensor. Code 21 pertains to ignition signal. Both of the codes are pointing to the dizzy and or the harness going to it. Seeing that you already changed the dizzy the problem is most likely in the wire harness...
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:44 PM   #3
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ok so your giving me a lead.....do you think you can tell me where to check????


anyone else with leads please speak up
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:51 PM   #4
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Here's a big clue... The harness for the dizzy goes right in front of the head just before the its plugs into it. This part is supposed to have a zip tie that hold the harness from bouncing around. It is very common for this zip tie to break and then the harness bounces around rubbing on the head. Often it will rub through to the wire strands shorting the harness to the head.
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:57 PM   #5
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ill look around^^^^^




anyone else???????
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:20 AM   #6
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Never had this problem on my nissan but once had something similar on my 1g dsm. No spark whatsoever. Turned out it was some leaky capacitors in the ecu. Can you borrow an ecu from a friend or someone in your area? Worth a shot. Goodluck!
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:34 AM   #7
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PM sent, but I'll post it here too:

ASSume this is a ka? if its an SR I'll be of no help. what engine is the car going into and did it come from? s13/s14 KA distributors are different too.

I'm also ASSuming you have pulled one of the plugs/wires and touched it to the valve cover, then crancked it over and watched for spark (its easier to be sure when dark).

theres no point in checking the injectors if there is no spark, but to check the injectors (again if on a KA) use a voltmeter set on the resistance setting and put one probe on each of the 2 prongs when injector clip is disconnected. resistance reeding should be around 11 ohms. if its significantly more or less than that injector is bad.

ASSuming KA, code 21 is the ignition signal circuit, which means that ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running, and the common causes are the harness and/or connector, or the power transister unit (connected to the ignition coil that the plug with 3 pins connects to). make sure all 3 electrical connectors are on the coil/power transistor unit

also make sure all your engine harness grounds are connected, they are easy to miss.

keep me posted. again if a KA I can scan the testing diagram for the power transistor for you (and only requires the voltmeter), but seeing as you replaced it already I doubt it'll be of any use.
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Old 10-01-2010, 12:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r20crazy View Post
PM sent, but I'll post it here too:

ASSume this is a ka? if its an SR I'll be of no help. what engine is the car going into and did it come from? s13/s14 KA distributors are different too.

I'm also ASSuming you have pulled one of the plugs/wires and touched it to the valve cover, then crancked it over and watched for spark (its easier to be sure when dark).

theres no point in checking the injectors if there is no spark, but to check the injectors (again if on a KA) use a voltmeter set on the resistance setting and put one probe on each of the 2 prongs when injector clip is disconnected. resistance reeding should be around 11 ohms. if its significantly more or less than that injector is bad.

ASSuming KA, code 21 is the ignition signal circuit, which means that ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running, and the common causes are the harness and/or connector, or the power transister unit (connected to the ignition coil that the plug with 3 pins connects to). make sure all 3 electrical connectors are on the coil/power transistor unit

also make sure all your engine harness grounds are connected, they are easy to miss.

keep me posted. again if a KA I can scan the testing diagram for the power transistor for you (and only requires the voltmeter), but seeing as you replaced it already I doubt it'll be of any use.
this is a KA, this is like the 11th post he has asked for people to tell him why his "fulling built" car isn't running. (he did this a bunch on local forums too before he was banned)

If someone "built" this motor...... shouldn't you be able to go back to them and ask for assistance? You seem to lack the ability to solve this on your own from every post I have read, why not stop wasting time and have someone with a clue fix it.

not sure why you stated "MY ANUS IS BLEEDING," but that sounds like something you might want to have someone check out as well.
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Old 10-01-2010, 12:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
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not sure why you stated "MY ANUS IS BLEEDING," but that sounds like something you might want to have someone check out as well.
Look up Rejected cartoons on youtube.

Bump for an awesome thread title, hahaha.
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Old 10-01-2010, 03:14 PM   #10
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you guys don't have a jeff jordan...maybe you can fly him out. lol
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:38 PM   #11
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take your multi meter and check the volts coming from anything ignition related. do that with the sensor plugs coming off the harness and also check them coming out of the ECU maybe you got a bad wire somewhere.
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g35gabby View Post
this is a KA, this is like the 11th post he has asked for people to tell him why his "fulling built" car isn't running. (he did this a bunch on local forums too before he was banned)

If someone "built" this motor...... shouldn't you be able to go back to them and ask for assistance? You seem to lack the ability to solve this on your own from every post I have read, why not stop wasting time and have someone with a clue fix it.

not sure why you stated "MY ANUS IS BLEEDING," but that sounds like something you might want to have someone check out as well.
dude ihad to conver this motor from obd2 to ob1 all by myself..now noone is asking for your help so all the stupid useless bullshit you post in my thread can just stop..also i havent asked anyone of gay ass orlando forums to help with this motor because this is a new motor and yes its fully built i can..

if there is something i need help with im going to ask..gaby im sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo oooooooooooooooooo sorry that the nissan manual was fucking magically inplemented into your brain by birth i guess im just not as fortunate as you..im still young hense the name younghatchowner...


to anyone that isnt wasting my time....i have put a plug to my valve cover and no spark i dont know how to check or what im checking for with a multimeter...im no electrician so iguess im just gonna sit on my ass and maybe the problem with just go away(not really im gonna ask someone to help me)
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:30 PM   #13
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So since you posted this thread you went from 17 to 20? Damn man, you'll wake up 21 tomorrow. That's tight. Just sell your car.
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:31 PM   #14
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Exclamation

If this is any help make sure you have the right plugs in the right place because there is two similar connectors tht go to the coil pack and to the maf. There should be two the coil pack,and i believe one is a 2 prong connector and the other is a 3. I once had the plugs in the wrong place because they look exactly the same. The Maf is distinct, so im not saying its tht one ,but there is another next to it tht is similar to the one tht hooks to the coil. Good luck!
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:40 PM   #15
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connectors

Just checked out the plugs, so make sure the 2 prong connector is black/green wires going to the coil pack and not the black/ blue ones tht goes near the maf. I have the ka24e, but im almost certain its the same for the ka24de, so i hope this helps if not im sorry.
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:44 PM   #16
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so much caps and so much anger...i can see why you've been banned from other forums..

who built the motor? Seriously man, you need to be in contact w/ that person instead of flipping out like a little kid on this forum..
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:55 PM   #17
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Also if you do figure out the spark problem, but it wont start make sure your cylinder walls have not been washed out from the fuel. This can happen if you try to start your car to much without sucess. What happens is you will have fuel and spark, but no compression. all you have to do is pour alittle bit of oil down the spark plug holes, not to much but just enough to make compression again. it will burn oil for a while, but it should go away unless your rings were not installed correctly.
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:59 PM   #18
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im trying to figure out how the internals and how the motor was built means anything to something else that i myself did.u dont know me so u dont know or see why i could get banned orlandoforums is full of idiots who take internet spelling to a level higher than the tip of the empire state building...imess with that forum whenever i make a new email..so dont worry about that..


as far as my problem.. all my plugs are connected except one and its not going to anything..im shocked that i cant figure this out..i wish iwas ase certified in electrical damn it
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:01 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g35gabby View Post
this is a KA, this is like the 11th post he has asked for people to tell him why his "fulling built" car isn't running. (he did this a bunch on local forums too before he was banned)

If someone "built" this motor...... shouldn't you be able to go back to them and ask for assistance? You seem to lack the ability to solve this on your own from every post I have read, why not stop wasting time and have someone with a clue fix it.

not sure why you stated "MY ANUS IS BLEEDING," but that sounds like something you might want to have someone check out as well.
count and find 11 post and that are legit about me asking to get my (fully built motor running) and ill by you a cookie
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:06 PM   #20
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i had a problem like this once... if the dizzy was installed 180 degrees (ie, not firing in the right order 1&4,2&3 are reversed, when the person installed the dizzy)(it'll still get spark, but fire on a different stroke, not compression stroke) take the spark plug wires off and switch them. 1&4 and 2&3 and see if it fires...
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:11 PM   #21
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:25 PM   #22
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The problem is obviously your anus. Start there and see what happens you never know? NA jk sorry lol
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:25 PM   #23
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As far as the connectors even though they are all plugged in just make sure they are all in the right place, so your not sure about tht one unplugged connector? where is it exactly maybe i can figure out where it goes 3 pin 2 pin connector? also is this the ka24de(dohc) or ka24e(sohc). Also if its the dohc there are 2 kinds of dohc theorectically because from 91 to 94 the ka24de had a different harness for the s13 model 95 and up (s14) has a different computer and engine harness, so if u have a 95 or higher make sure the maf and dizzy are not for the 91 to 94 (s13)or vice versa they are not inter changeable as far as im concerned.
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:27 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tek18b_jimmy View Post
i had a problem like this once... if the dizzy was installed 180 degrees (ie, not firing in the right order 1&4,2&3 are reversed, when the person installed the dizzy)(it'll still get spark, but fire on a different stroke, not compression stroke) take the spark plug wires off and switch them. 1&4 and 2&3 and see if it fires...
The dizzy will always fire in the correct order as long as the wires are installed correctly. I think you meant to refer to spark timing.

OP, if you want to make sure the dizzy is installed correctly, put the #1 cylinder at TDC. Pull the distributor out; there should be a couple of dots on the side of the shafts. One is on the shaft that is part of the gear and the other is on the shaft that it part of the ditributor housing. These 2 dots need to be lined up when you install the distributor with the #1 cylinder at TDC.
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Old 10-01-2010, 09:10 PM   #25
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I think i tried that a few times but thanks alot for reminding me i almost forgot...

killer...fucku,,,,

white..lol...

the thing is i take off the coil wire off of my dizzy andtouch it to my valve cover...no spark..same thing with 1 of my spark plug wires with the spark plug connected to it..touch close to valve cover and...you guessed it..no spark
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Old 10-01-2010, 09:59 PM   #26
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Is the valve cover even grounded? Test it on your intake manifold, as that actually has a stable ground.
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:09 PM   #27
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well no offense, but if your coil isnt sparking, neither will your spark plugs.??? did you replace all the parts with new?
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:57 PM   #28
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yes sir i did.....um i totally forgot to mention that there is no power to my guage cluster and the ding sing from the doors being open...nothing..maye that helps idk...
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:07 PM   #29
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Check fuses next....
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:11 PM   #30
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yes sir i did.....um i totally forgot to mention that there is no power to my guage cluster and the ding sing from the doors being open...nothing..maye that helps idk...
Sounds like your 75A grey fuse might be blown. I had that happen to me when a buddy loaned me a battery with switched terminals and I didn't catch it before tossing it in(exact same other than that). It blew the 75A fuse, and had weird electrical symptoms in the interior of all places, and of course the engine didn't start.
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