Discussion: OEM vs. aftermarket sways

[Mr. Spool]

I would go for the rear one but leave your stock front one on. The rear aftermarkets a quite a bit bigger but the fronts are comparable.

[yudalicious]

sorry in my haste I failed to mention myother set up: RSR race springs and KYB AGX, with some grippy all season tires.

[AceInHole]

Originally Posted by Mr. Spool

I would go for the rear one but leave your stock front one on. The rear aftermarkets a quite a bit bigger but the fronts are comparable.

it's more than size. aftermarket bars aren't hollow like the OEM front.

FWIW: i like my whiteline bars, even with the bushing style endlinks they came with. can't wait to get the tie rod endlinks in and make a solid endlinks.

[[email protected]]

A solid bar is only about 5% stiffer than a hollow bar of the same diameter... a properly sized hollow bar can be as stiff as a solid bar and alot lighter. Most aftermarket bars are not hollow though, I only know of the arc pipe stablizers from Japan, and those cost $$$

We are developing lower cost solid endlinks for the Z32, they should work with adjustable (spade-end type) sway bars for the 240SX...

Originally Posted by AceInHole

it's more than size. aftermarket bars aren't hollow like the OEM front.

FWIW: i like my whiteline bars, even with the bushing style endlinks they came with. can't wait to get the tie rod endlinks in and make a solid endlinks.

[yudalicious]

thanks guys, it's always good to learn somn new. But can some1 gimme more info on my question? Thanks.

[Thunderchicken]

Originally Posted by [email protected]

A solid bar is only about 5% stiffer than a hollow bar of the same diameter... a properly sized hollow bar can be as stiff as a solid bar and alot lighter. Most aftermarket bars are not hollow though, I only know of the arc pipe stablizers from Japan, and those cost $$$

We are developing lower cost solid endlinks for the Z32, they should work with adjustable (spade-end type) sway bars for the 240SX...

That may be true when the bars are in bending (axial). But for torsional loads a solid bar is better.

[[email protected]]

In torsion, the center of the bar contributes little to the torque, as it has no leverage (radius from axis of rotation). That is why a solid bar is only a little better than a hollow bar of the same diameter, for torsion. For bending, actually I believe a hollow bar is much easier to bend than a solid bar...

Link to some info on the subject:

http://www.hotchkis.net/pdf_files/HollowSwayTech-D.pdf

Originally Posted by Thunderchicken

That may be true when the bars are in bending (axial). But for torsional loads a solid bar is better.

[Thunderchicken]

Originally Posted by [email protected]

In torsion, the center of the bar contributes little to the torque, as it has no leverage (radius from axis of rotation). That is why a solid bar is only a little better than a hollow bar of the same diameter, for torsion. For bending, actually I believe a hollow bar is much easier to bend than a solid bar...

Link to some info on the subject:

http://www.hotchkis.net/pdf_files/HollowSwayTech-D.pdf

That is a very informative link. The solid bar would probably bend first. And from that link it says that the slightly larger dia. hollow bar is stiffer, weighs less, and sees the same amount of stress.

For the average street car the difference between hollow and solid bars designed by reputable shops would be unnoticeable.