ughh soo tired of this problem

[mike fonseca]

I have a ka24de n it loses power at full throttle it idle fine n runs smooth as long as I don't floor it cause it just bogs n loses complete power n just makes loud noise like if u would take off from a complete stop in like 3 gear that's thecsame noisevit makes n n power after that unless I release the gas n just press it about half way or less ....some one helpvme fix it I've changed fuel pump, fuel filter, knock sensor,full tune up,I checked n cleaned the maf n it seems fine the only thing i can think of is the tps but im not surr cause I have no problem with it just raving the engine up the car has to actually be moving for the problem to happen ......hopefully someone can help me thanx in advanced

[rat240]

adjust your tps

[240sxrb25]

Try using periods n commas n stuff n maybe we can read it easier n help you more n stuff

[raidanthunder]

are all your vaccum lines conected properly and not leaking? i had a similar problem with bogging under a load, turned out to be some lines on the back of the head that came loose. other than that maybe check the SCV/butterfly valves, if they were not opening like they should under throttle it might cause some issues.

[mike fonseca]

Originally Posted by rat240

adjust your tps

Hmmm ok ill try that thanx bro

[mike fonseca]

Originally Posted by raidanthunder

are all your vaccum lines conected properly and not leaking? i had a similar problem with bogging under a load, turned out to be some lines on the back of the head that came loose. other than that maybe check the SCV/butterfly valves, if they were not opening like they should under throttle it might cause some issues.

I've checked my vacuum lines n they seem fine but I'm gna try to get the vacuum line diagram maybe one is connected wrong or something it seemed like the car is running rich so that would make sense ill check into that

[240sxrb25]

I've heard nightmare stories about sticky butterflies also how's the o2 sensor

You did a pump but have you check fuel pressure. Just a thought

[mike fonseca]

Originally Posted by 240sxrb25

I've heard nightmare stories about sticky butterflies also how's the o2 sensor

You did a pump but have you check fuel pressure. Just a thought

Ya I changed the 02 sensor already but no I didnt check the fuel pressure when I did the fuel pump. Ill check the butterfly valve aswell thanx man

[Tantwoforty]

pull the codes

[562s13]

check pcv valve and distributor and wires/plugs.

[mike fonseca]

Originally Posted by Tantwoforty

pull the codes

the check engine isn't always on n when it is on its usually wile im driving n then it goes away ... I had a knock sensor code but that was the only one I remembered but replaced the knock sensor but same thing happens

[SinGarage]

The codes will be stored in the ECU unless you have pulled of the battery cables or have reset your ECU.

I would pull the codes first and test per FSM before buying/installing parts.

[Tantwoforty]

Something i googled and copied form 2002...

Originally Posted by geeaj

Here is the procedure for s13 ka24de 91-93

Only a screw driver is required to read the trouble codes stored in the ECU (Electronic Control Unit). The following instructions allow you to easily read and erase the Malfunction Code on your beloved's ECU.

These instructions come from the 1991- 16 Valve Factory Service Manual.

Reading the codes requires accessing the ECU and placing the unit in one of two self diagnostic modes using a small flat head screw driver. The codes are displayed by a single RED L.E.D. in the ECU and the Check Engine Light.

1. Accessing to the ECU

The ECU is located at the right of the right side footwell. The "side" is determined as you sit in the car facing forward. (For cars in North America, the right side would be the passenger side)

You need to remove 2- "rivet" type fasteners of the right doorstep in order to get the kick panel out. To remove the plastic fasteners, unscrew the center part and pull out the other part. 2- metal screws and another "rivet" type fastener hold the kick panel.

Under the panel, is the ECU with its connector. Unfortunately, you have to access to the side of the ECU that is against the firewall. Remove the two screws at the top and bottom of the ECU and gently turn it to get to the Model Selector and RED L.E.D. Don't unplug the ECU to do this!

BE CAREFUL!

There should be a small sticker by the Mode Selector that tells you to turn it clockwise to set the Modes and to be sure to return it all the way counter-clockwise to the original position when the car is in use. You will also see the RED L.E.D. inside the ECU.

IF YOUR STICKER IS GONE:

Mark the original position of the Mode Selector. This is a VERY IMPORTANT position for the Mode Selector! (This should be fully counter-clockwise).

2. The Diagnostic Modes

--------------------------

There are 2- Modes and 2- Conditions for the Engine to be in for running diagnostics:

All Modes are with the Ignition Switch in the ON position
Mode I (Engine OFF)- Bulb Check
Mode I (Engine ON) - Malfunction Warning
Mode II (Engine OFF)- Stored Self Diagnostic Results
Mode II (Engine ON)- Exhaust Gas Sensor Monitor

Note: The ECU will automatically return to Mode I when the ignition is switched OFF. When the ECU is changed from Mode II back to Mode I by using the Mode Selector, the malfunction code(s) stored for Mode II will be erased. More on this later.

3. Changing Modes

Note: Switching Modes is not possible when the engine is running.

* Turn the Ignition Switch ON.
* The ECU is now in Mode I.
* To switch to Mode II:

Turn the ECU Mode Selector fully CLOCKWISE, hold for at least 2-seconds and then return the Mode Selector to it's original position. You are now in Mode II.

* Return to Mode I by turning the Mode Selector fully CLOCKWISE again, holding for another 2-seconds and turning it back to the original position.

Note: Doing this will ERASE any Malfunction Codes that are stored in the ECU for Mode II.

Example: If you found a Malfunction Code of 34 when you very first switched to Mode II and then cycled back to Mode I, then again to Mode II, you'll get a 55 (everything's OK) code. This is assuming that you didn't start the car between changing modes. When you start the engine, any current malfunction codes will be store by the ECU until you erase them or they get dumped.

Malfunction Codes are stored by the ECU for 50 times of cranking the starter. Then they are erased. If the same conditions are present, the Malfunction Code will be stored again for 50 cranks of the starter. And so on...

4. Reading the Malfunction Codes:

The Malfunction Codes are indicated by the number of flashes by the RED L.E.D. and the Check Engine Light. You can read either one. They flash the same information. For example, when the RED L.E.D. flashes once and after a short pause flashes twice, this signifies the number "12".

Note: If you find that your looking at a RED L.E.D. and a GREEN L.E.D., you've got a different ECU than is described here. See the FAQ on this same page that was written by Richard Lestage for the SOHC ECU!

_

ALL TESTS ARE PERFORMED W/ THE IGNITION SWITCH "ON"

Mode I (Engine OFF)- Bulb Check:

In this Mode, the RED L.E.D. in the ECU and the Check Engine Light stay ON. If either remain OFF, check the bulb.

Mode I (Engine ON) - Malfunction Warning:
RED L.E.D. is OFF = OK
RED L.E.D. flashes =

For California Models Only:

Code # Description

12 Air flow meter circuit
13 Engine temperature sensor circuit
14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit
31 E.C.U. (E.C.C.S. control unit)
32 EGR function
33 Exhaust gas O2 sensor circuit
35 Exhaust gas temperature circuit
43 Throttle position sensor circuit
45 Injector leak

For Non-California Models:

RED L.E.D. ON = The ECU's CPU or the Crank Angle sensor is malfunctioning.

____

Mode II (Engine OFF)- Stored Self Diagnostic Results

Code # Description

11 + Crank angle sensor circuit
12 E Air flow meter circuit
13 E Engine temperature sensor circuit
14 E Vehicle speed sensor circuit
21 + Ignition signal circuit
31 E E.C.U. (E.C.C.S. control unit)
32 * E EGR function
33 E Exhaust gas O2 sensor circuit
34 Detonation sensor circuit
35 * E Exhaust gas temperature circuit
43 E Throttle position sensor circuit
45 * E Injector leak
54 Signal circuit from A/T control unit to ECU (A/T only)
55 No malfunction in the above circuits

* = California models only
E = Check Engine light will show this code.
+ = Check items causing a malfunction of the crank angle sensor 1st, if both #11 and #21 are displayed at the same time.

Mode II (Engine ON)- Exhaust Gas Sensor Monitor

* Warm up the engine and see that the Temperature Gauge is in it's usual position.

* Run the engine at about 2,000 RPM for about 2- minutes under no-load conditions.

* Make sure the RED L.E.D. or the Check Engine Light goes ON and OFF more than 5- times every 10- seconds; measured at 2,000 RPM under no-load. (This is easiest to do while sitting in the driver's seat and watching the Check Engine Light.)

After the diagnostic, Turn the ignition 'off' to return to mode I.

************************************************** ********

[mike fonseca]

Hmmm ok ill try that to see what codes come up thanx guys

[Memberofthe600hpkaclub]

urhmm dirty or bad maf?

[mike fonseca]

Originally Posted by Memberofthe600hpkaclub

urhmm dirty or bad maf?

I checked the maf i cleaned it n it seems fine it didnt make a differece tho ...

I checked the swirl control valve solenoid n I found out the two vacuum lines in the back where hooked up wrong so I switched them over. I checked codes in the ecu aswell the only one that comes up is 32 witch is egr function

[MidwestMyriad]

Clean the EGR system, might be gummed up and not functioning properly.

[jedi03]

had same prob...was bad headgasket lol...went sr after that!

[mxexux]

check the fpr.........................

[mike fonseca]

Originally Posted by jedi03

had same prob...was bad headgasket lol...went sr after that!

Lol just bought Sr aswell I just wanna get the engine running good so wen I sell it I have no problems with buyer

[mike fonseca]

Ugh man one thing leads to another I was putting the ecu back and I didn't notice one of the wires was sliced so the wire was showing n wile going in it hit the chassis n sparked I tried turning on the car n it won't turn on anymore it just cranks and the lights in my dash stay on even tho the car is off the kbt way to turn them off is to remove the ground wire from the battery ughh fuck man really annoying I'm just glad I have my Sr already now just need to install it

[chuki roller]

This seems to be a common problem for lots of people including myself, it turned out to be a ground wire for me. Check and clean all grounds, so simple its stupid lol but do it it saved me.l

[mike fonseca]

Originally Posted by chuki roller

This seems to be a common problem for lots of people including myself, it turned out to be a ground wire for me. Check and clean all grounds, so simple its stupid lol but do it it saved me.l

Lol ya I though about that so I ran 3 ground wires one from battery to chassis ,one from chassis to block n one from block to battery but nothing

[mike fonseca]

I fixed all the problems my ecu was fried but got a friend to fix it now the car turns on n off fine but only when I remove the egi relay also when I remove it the car runs good it won't bog at full open throttle anymore but the mph won't work ! Lol dam stupid electrical problems I suck at this lol

[chuki roller]

mine egi used to buzz when my car didnt start but mine was a ground, funny thing is my speedo stopped working too but I dont have to pull the egi to start... freaking electrical problems. Glade to hear that its back on the street though!

[Schassis707]

Chuki, what grounds are you talking about? like normal, battery-intake mani, head to chassis, alt, and such... please dont say the 4 inside the dash... fingers crossed.

[chuki roller]

this was a while ago, Im pretty sure it was the ground from head to the chassis, it was on the right side above the header I think. Hope this helps.