GT2871 USERS. SR motor

[steve shadows]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Cody, what are your thoughts on Nistune?

not a fan from personal experience

Get the AEM FIC if you're that hard up for mula or save up for a real standalone,

when you put all the prices together, and ive heard this from a few customers in the past now who switched from nistune to a used or new PFC, it's not much of savings for a diy that takes time and energy away from concentrating on the build and tuning, personal as well as advice and word back from several customers state side...

I just don't appreciate them calling it a full EMS, it's a stand in for eprom burning which is what it really is not a standalone EMS.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by jspaeth

I don't know why you guys even listen to this CodyAce guy.......it's not like he has the fastest 2871R 240 out there.

nor does he have any proof, like 1/4 mile times or trap speeds.

Oh wait.......nevermind.

Well, to the defense of 'whereda40sat' (I think that is his name) he does have the fastest time and trap...but in a lightweight, drag setup s13 (mid 10's at 122 IIRC...1.4x 60'!) However very few of us can boast 120 traps

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Cody, what are your thoughts on Nistune?

I'll answer it below, in conjunction with Steve's posts.

Originally Posted by steve shadows

Ken go with the Tomei oil pan if you can, that's what I recommend, it's worth saving up for it too if you plan on burning and turning for a while with that motor, the Greddy's and the Freddys have problems stripping and not a big fan of the bolt patterns also...this is from headaches from experience track side personally...just what I ended up doing on one of the recent builds, more expensive but I thought it was worth it for such a critical part on the SR...

What do you have issues stripping out? The drain? Sheeet...if you strip that out, you shoudln't be working on cars

I'm gonna argue on the other side: that is the Tomei pan is a little 'tricky' sort to speak with the outer sealing bolts and how limited/shallow they are. It's a minor bitch, but I prefer the allen headed socket cap screws that greddy offers. In the end, I'd use either without hesitation.

Regardless, they all work well. I've never personally installed a Moroso pan, but I have examined it, and it's another viable option as well. In the end of the day, a larger capacity/baffled pan is a huge 'safety' mod for these engines. I would not run a freddy pan however, as their threaded areas (the little bungs in the side) are often shittally cast, and require a re tap, or at best to be cut out/new bung rewelded.

Originally Posted by steve shadows

not a fan from personal experience

Get the AEM FIC if you're that hard up for mula or save up for a real standalone,

when you put all the prices together, and ive heard this from a few customers in the past now who switched from nistune to a used or new PFC, it's not much of savings for a diy that takes time and energy away from concentrating on the build and tuning, personal as well as advice and word back from several customers state side...

I just don't appreciate them calling it a full EMS, it's a stand in for eprom burning which is what it really is not a standalone EMS.

Nistune is certainly an 'option' for those capable of using it, however that market is very slim (at best). To me, I wish Calum had implemented a RealTime setup for the RWD market, as it was much more user friendly and easier to work than Nistune...however that never came to light.

I wouldn't discredit it completely though. It's a capable setup, but in the end of the day I'd rather run a JWT or Enthalpy ECU and be done with it. No worries, turn key, reliable and they work. If I was building a race car, it would be different...but I own a street, thus use street based ROM tunes. (I have thousands of track miles, but it's still a street car in the end)

[BlackZenkiS14]

Originally Posted by codyace

Nistune is certainly an 'option' for those capable of using it, however that market is very slim (at best). To me, I wish Calum had implemented a RealTime setup for the RWD market, as it was much more user friendly and easier to work than Nistune...however that never came to light.

I wouldn't discredit it completely though. It's a capable setup, but in the end of the day I'd rather run a JWT or Enthalpy ECU and be done with it. No worries, turn key, reliable and they work. If I was building a race car, it would be different...but I own a street, thus use street based ROM tunes. (I have thousands of track miles, but it's still a street car in the end)

I understand the simplicity and ease of getting a ROM based tune, but something about it still makes me nervous not being able to control everything...

Im on my 2nd motor now, and really really cant afford to let another one go, I got too much other shit to save for. What are you running for tuning?

Whats the cost of that? done and finished. and how often do you have to send it in and get it retuned? I worry about changing things and then having to spend another 300 to get it retuned...

My setup will end up being a built bottom end, a moderately built (rebuilt) topend, z32, S14 T28( gt2871 eventually), 740cc injectors, Greddy FMIC, exhaust, walbro 255, and all the other supporting mods that go with the above.

I just dont know what I want to do to keep this thing in check

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

I understand the simplicity and ease of getting a ROM based tune, but something about it still makes me nervous not being able to control everything...

Im on my 2nd motor now, and really really cant afford to let another one go, I got too much other shit to save for. What are you running for tuning?

Whats the cost of that? done and finished. and how often do you have to send it in and get it retuned? I worry about changing things and then having to spend another 300 to get it retuned...

My setup will end up being a built bottom end, a moderately built (rebuilt) topend, z32, S14 T28( gt2871 eventually), 740cc injectors, Greddy FMIC, exhaust, walbro 255, and all the other supporting mods that go with the above.

I just dont know what I want to do to keep this thing in check

Depends on a couple of things. What do type of driving? Track or just spirited street driving? You should really invest in gauges that was the #1 fault of mine. Went with autometer, that POS failed me. Going with Powered by Max, they have new electronic meters, which looks pretty good.... Meters are your friend. Meters should check oil pressure, fuel pressure, oil temp, and coolant temps.

If you go to the track, swirl pot for the fuel, swirl pot for the coolant, oil cooler, accusump, and greddy pan.

Other than that just check ups on your car often and get a good tune aka SteveShadows....

[silversr]

So i sent my ecu back to enthalpy and he said for some reason the original tune was for 700cc injectors so he switched it to 740cc and he added some timing to help with the s3 cams. It was running fine with this tune no hesitation etc.. but it wasn't making the power it should.

I got the ecu back and the car runs like crap, idles at 10 afrs, cruising is between 10-11afrs and it hesitates while cruising and it backfires. I lowered the fuel pressure but it only helps in boost but it still feels weak. I don't want to dyno it because it would be a waste of money. I can already tell that its making less power than before. I just hate having to wait a few days before even getting a response.

I'll lower the fuel pressure even more to see what happens. I'll double check the plugs and timing but nothing has changed from the previous tune. Hopefully the motor doesn't blow.

[2forty]

Originally Posted by silversr

So i sent my ecu back to enthalpy and he said for some reason the original tune was for 700cc injectors so he switched it to 740cc and he added some timing to help with the s3 cams. It was running fine with this tune no hesitation etc.. but it wasn't making the power it should.

I got the ecu back and the car runs like crap, idles at 10 afrs, cruising is between 10-11afrs and it hesitates while cruising and it backfires. I lowered the fuel pressure but it only helps in boost but it still feels weak. I don't want to dyno it because it would be a waste of money. I can already tell that its making less power than before. I just hate having to wait a few days before even getting a response.

I'll lower the fuel pressure even more to see what happens. I'll double check the plugs and timing but nothing has changed from the previous tune. Hopefully the motor doesn't blow.

I had the same issue. ran rich as hell. I had sard 550s. They asked me if i was sure they were sards. I sent him pics of my part number etc of the injectors, was positive they were sard/denso units. ended up running the tune that came with the ecu which ran a million times better than the reflash i got. never again for me! stand alone or jwt.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Depends on a couple of things. What do type of driving? Track or just spirited street driving? You should really invest in gauges that was the #1 fault of mine. Went with autometer, that POS failed me. Going with Powered by Max, they have new electronic meters, which looks pretty good.... Meters are your friend. Meters should check oil pressure, fuel pressure, oil temp, and coolant temps.

Gauges are certainly important. Autometer may not be the best, but their mid range stuff isn't junk either. I'd stay away from any of the cheaper stuff/non name brand myself.

Originally Posted by silversr

So i sent my ecu back to enthalpy and he said for some reason the original tune was for 700cc injectors so he switched it to 740cc and he added some timing to help with the s3 cams. It was running fine with this tune no hesitation etc.. but it wasn't making the power it should.

You're timing and everything are right? Chips installed the right way? While I may be a JWT fan, I will say that Enthalpy (Scott Chris or Martin) all have been SUPER helpful and more than willing to make good on their tunes and ECU's

Originally Posted by silversr

I just hate having to wait a few days before even getting a response.

That's going to happen with anyone and the ECU's. You gotta remember their life is not the ECU business, so their may be time to wait before reply. Gotta also remember how many emails they must get.

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

I understand the simplicity and ease of getting a ROM based tune, but something about it still makes me nervous not being able to control everything...

I wouldn't be concerned with either the JWT or Enthalpy setups as both have bene out now long enough to have tunes on. Most issues with cars always seem to be 'with the car' moreso than the tune...wiring, or vacuum, or timing, or condition of parts etc etc.

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Im on my 2nd motor now, and really really cant afford to let another one go, I got too much other shit to save for. What are you running for tuning?

Jim Wolf Ecu. I've run once since day one. I got a reflash a few years back to add on water injection and launch control, and that has been it.

I always prefer the JWT ECU for my own stuff, just as I've had fantastic luck with them, across all platforms (From my Altimas, to Sentra's to Z's and to the 240sx)...they work perfect out of the box (some cars may need a minor fuel pressure adjustment, but that's not under the ECU control) and are reliable.

Originally Posted by BlackZenkiS14

Whats the cost of that? done and finished. and how often do you have to send it in and get it retuned? I worry about changing things and then having to spend another 300 to get it retuned...

The only thing you'd ever need to change in regard to a retune is if you change injectors or MAF...so you're best bet is to get 740cc and a Z32/Cobra maf off the bat and be done. On some cars we've logged them and gotten minor adjustments, but it's only due to the owner wanting it (and for 100 dollars it's not a bad deal).