problem with coilover install

[Chay G]

just remove the spindle with the strut on, and hit in the floor with he hammer (on top of the threaded side), or use a jacksaw and get a new bolt

[Zenki_516]

Take a week off and hit the gym.

[I LUV MY S13]

Originally Posted by Phatsilvia

You need to compress the strut so it takes the pressure off the bolt if you have a jack, jack up on the hub to relieve pressure

There it is

[dorkidori_s13]

all of you are WRONG!!!!

its because your sway bar is still attached and the spring cannot expand fully. you need to put a jack underneath the the strut itself, compress the strut and unbolt your sway bar (when unbolting it, make sure the nuts and bolts retaining them move freely when you loosen them, ie the LCA isnt putting pressure on the sway bar). once your sway bar is disconnected, let the jack compressing the strut down SLOWLY. once the spring and strut decompress fully, the bolt will come out fairly easily.

you will just ruin your bolt trying to force it out of the lower mount without disconnecting the sway bar.

when you put the new coilover damper in, bolt it all up and reconnect sway bar. done. coilover dampers do not cause the sway bar problem because they dont need to decompress due to set length springs.

[redenblack]

Jackhammer! = gg

[DenkiMan!]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

all of you are WRONG!!!!

its because your sway bar is still attached and the spring cannot expand fully. you need to put a jack underneath the the strut itself, compress the strut and unbolt your sway bar (when unbolting it, make sure the nuts and bolts retaining them move freely when you loosen them, ie the LCA isnt putting pressure on the sway bar). once your sway bar is disconnected, let the jack compressing the strut down SLOWLY. once the spring and strut decompress fully, the bolt will come out fairly easily.

you will just ruin your bolt trying to force it out of the lower mount without disconnecting the sway bar.

when you put the new coilover damper in, bolt it all up and reconnect sway bar. done. coilover dampers do not cause the sway bar problem because they dont need to decompress due to set length springs.

i did that! bolt did not come out!!!

[ILoveJDM]

Originally Posted by ILoveJDM

OR

make sure the other side of the car is off the ground and the car isnt tweaked.

i will add this pisses me off everytime i need to install fronts

bump for advice that works.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by DenkiMan!

i did that! bolt did not come out!!!

if the bolt moves at all, spray the crap out of it with WD40. soak it like crazy for about 15-20 min while moving the bolt. it may be slightly seized inside of the spindle.

EDIT: after looking at the photo more carefully now that im home (i wrote the above in about 30 seconds at work today), and also reading the description a bit better, you may have to break out the sledge hammer. you didnt notice any beads from welding anywhere around the bolt did you? the strut itself looks as if it will move back and for on the bolt so you have at least SOME way of moving it around.

your best bet may be to just getting a hold of an angle grinder and cutting the fuker off.

[usajdm]

Jacking up the lower control arm is just compressing the spring more, therefore adding more resistance(pressure) to the bolt.
Get a "strut spring" compressor.
That will compress the spring, but leave the strut free of its tension.
Since its the last contact btween the two, all the springs pressure is pushing down on the bolt, causing the bolt/whole alignment to be off.
Ok, so "strut" spring compressor(be sure its not a coil spring compressor).
It will relieve all pressure off the bolt.
In no way should you need a hammer and a screwdriver for a nut/bolt combo.
There should be no screws or nails holding your strut on..........

[usajdm]

MacPherson Strut Coil Spring Compressor Set
Heres a real cheap one for you.

[Tempo]

I just had this same problem happen to me not even 5 days ago but instead it was on the passenger side and it was the lower bolt, it took us 2hours ,
went through 2 sockets and a extension, we thought we would never take the thing out but it eventually came out when we borrowed a friends
forged sockets, sockets held up and the bolt came out with a breaker bar and a leverage poll, didn't think of wd40 or pb blaster or liquid wrench until after lol -___-

edit: and snapped a brand new ratchet i never got to use T.T

[carmaniac1993]

You could also try loosening the bolt. done this a couple times in similar situations

[ZAKU]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

spray the crap out of it with WD40

WD40 is so shitty, WD40 < PB Blaster < Kano Kroil < Acetone/ATF mix.

Do you have any access to air tools?

It definitely sounds like the bolt is seized inside the spindle. Plan on replacing the spindle to be safe, but you may be able to remove the bolt once the spindle/strut assembly is out.

My brother had the exact same problem with his Firebird, we ended up needing a hydraulic press with 10 THOUSAND pounds of pressure to pop the bolt free.

[victorw210]

i always have this problem and usually just heat it up and hammer it,did not even consider removing sway bar or compressing strut,im dumb i guess.

[DenkiMan!]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

if the bolt moves at all, spray the crap out of it with WD40. soak it like crazy for about 15-20 min while moving the bolt. it may be slightly seized inside of the spindle.

EDIT: after looking at the photo more carefully now that im home (i wrote the above in about 30 seconds at work today), and also reading the description a bit better, you may have to break out the sledge hammer. you didnt notice any beads from welding anywhere around the bolt did you? the strut itself looks as if it will move back and for on the bolt so you have at least SOME way of moving it around.

your best bet may be to just getting a hold of an angle grinder and cutting the fuker off.

right but the bolt itself doesnt move independently from the spindle, otherwise it would fall right out. the when you push it back and forth, the bolt stays stuck with the spindle. my next move is a sledgehammer and my friend who can bench 400 lol. if that doesnt work, then i may have to pop the strut out and work on it

Originally Posted by usajdm

Jacking up the lower control arm is just compressing the spring more, therefore adding more resistance(pressure) to the bolt.
Get a "strut spring" compressor.
That will compress the spring, but leave the strut free of its tension.
Since its the last contact btween the two, all the springs pressure is pushing down on the bolt, causing the bolt/whole alignment to be off.
Ok, so "strut" spring compressor(be sure its not a coil spring compressor).
It will relieve all pressure off the bolt.
In no way should you need a hammer and a screwdriver for a nut/bolt combo.
There should be no screws or nails holding your strut on..........

that sounds like it could work, theres a harbor freight right down the street from me, i'll check out that compressor you posted! its best to do that when the struts off the chassis right?

Originally Posted by ZAKU

WD40 is so shitty, WD40 < PB Blaster < Kano Kroil < Acetone/ATF mix.

Do you have any access to air tools?

It definitely sounds like the bolt is seized inside the spindle. Plan on replacing the spindle to be safe, but you may be able to remove the bolt once the spindle/strut assembly is out.

My brother had the exact same problem with his Firebird, we ended up needing a hydraulic press with 10 THOUSAND pounds of pressure to pop the bolt free.

were you able to salvage the spindle after all that pressure??? and yea im looking for a spare spindle. anyone got one!?!

atm i dont have access to air tools, but i have friends who may know people, i can ask around.

[usajdm]

Originally Posted by DenkiMan!

that sounds like it could work, theres a harbor freight right down the street from me, i'll check out that compressor you posted! its best to do that when the struts off the chassis right?

You can use this with the struts still on the car......
I promise you, this is how you should of started.
If so many people are having this problem, and there solution is to use a hammer, could that thought process be the reason they are having problems in the first place.

BTW, next time, loosen all bolts/nuts before proceeding to the dismantle.

[240sxvaj]

Originally Posted by Zenki_516

Take a week off and hit the gym.

I think this is the answer to everything. haha. i taken out all kinds of struts/shocks and i think your just too scared to hit the shit out of that bolt. but of course you should try to compress the springs with a special Spring compressing tool which you can rent at autozone and use a jack to lift the spindle area at the same time. and last use a long screw driver with a hammer and tap with a large amount of force.

You just gotta know when to not be gentle with the car. non of that love tap. LOL

[EhrikETFG]

if you really cant get it off just fuckign cut then run to home depot/lowes and get a new bolt.. there should literally be no reason for it not to come out..

[nismoracingsx]

Originally Posted by EhrikETFG

if you really cant get it off just fuckign cut then run to home depot/lowes and get a new bolt.. there should literally be no reason for it not to come out..

pretty sure the cashiers get sick me buying 1 bolt at a time every other weekend

love hittin me up some lowe's for some fresh stainless steel hardware

[NoPistons!]

People fail basic mechanics. It's ok though. I'm sure you're really sick at wheel fitment. :lamefacesmiley:

[DenkiMan!]

^^^ oh thanks sargeant sarcasm

anyways bringing this thread back from the dead...again. i was finally able to get my coilovers on. i bought a huge 4 pound sledgehammer to knock that bolt out, it took like 15 blows but it came out. i took the caliper and the rotor off so i could get nice clean swings.

they ride soooo smooth, i love kei office lol