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Old 05-30-2012, 04:20 PM   #1
enderr
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Car temp

Hi guys i have a 91 coupe and my temperature is always below cold. The thermostat must work because my car doesn't run like its hot, however the temperature never changes in my car.

TL;DR I need a new temp sensor is it easy to replace on my own?

Also I realised that my car idles higher after I've driven it for awhile, is that normal?

It idle's at about 1.1k when normal and 1.5k-1.7k when driven for awhile.

I want to fix this temperature problem so I can install some accessory fans instead of just running with my clutch fan. Thanks guys
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Old 05-30-2012, 06:51 PM   #2
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Changing the coolant temp sensor is very easy.

Take off the radiator cap, drain some coolant. Unthread the water temp sensor which is on the upper water neck (14mm?) and install a new one. Simple as that.

You can pull codes with the ECU by spinning a little flat head switch (next to a small light). Count the slow flashes and then the fast. How many times they flash equates to a number. A coolant temp sensor usually throws a code (sometimes not).

I would start with checking codes and changing the thermostat.
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:20 PM   #3
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well i have a check engine light because I swapped in a 95 engine into my 91, and there are some plugs not plugged in behind the head idk where they go.. and I have an aftermarket aluminum radiator does that change anything? I dont know what you mean by upper water neck??
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:45 AM   #4
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Aluminum radiator won't keep the car from warming up, no.

By upper water neck I was refering to where the coolant leaves the motor (where the upper radiator hose leads to from the radiator).

But in 2nd thought, the coolant temp sensor is just after the lower waterneck. It's between the throttle body and the head.

I would suggest starting with a new thermostat though.
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Old 06-01-2012, 01:20 AM   #5
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how much would it cost to have a shop do this?
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Old 06-01-2012, 07:13 AM   #6
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I would venture to guess between $100 and $200. Don't quote me on that though.

It's an easy job. If you have minimal tools you can get it done in an hour if its your first time. I can give you a step by step if you'd like.
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Old 06-01-2012, 07:22 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chase_FerdinRacing View Post
I would venture to guess between $100 and $200. Don't quote me on that though.

It's an easy job. If you have minimal tools you can get it done in an hour if its your first time. I can give you a step by step if you'd like.
Agreed, and it's a good small project for someone who is just starting out on wrenching.

Just make sure you do as was noted earlier, and drain your radiator. You can drain it into a clean pan to re-use after. The thermostat housing will hold some coolant, so have a pan handy so you don't have coolant all over the ground

Also, don't forget to top up the cooling system and keep the car running with the rad cap off for a while, to get rid of any air bubbles in the cooling system
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Old 06-02-2012, 01:22 AM   #8
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I appreciate the help very much guys. I'm looking to tackle this tommorow. I suppose ill just replace the Temp sensor? if thats what its called. the thermostat housing and coolant temp sensor
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:02 PM   #9
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So I fixed the thermostat but when I was replacing the coolant temp sensor, the 'vagina' part on the wiring harness broke off.... and fell somewhere in my engine bay..

Does anyone have the plug that connects to the coolant temp sensor? I need one now that the old one broke, I'm assuming I need to re solder the wiring to make it work
Please message me or comment if you have one
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:37 AM   #10
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Can anybody help me out?
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:40 AM   #11
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Tbh, your best bet on getting a new connector is going to the junkyard and pulling one off of a car there - or find someone doing a swap and asking them if they're willing to cut off the plug.
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:44 AM   #12
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Maybe your sensor was fine and it was the wirings that was fubard.

But here ya go

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Old 06-04-2012, 11:40 AM   #13
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I think I put the gaskets on the thermostat on wrong. It's leaking a lot of collant from the thermostat housing but its on very tight
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:32 PM   #14
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Definetly on wrong then yes haha.

Just use RTV for a gasket. If you can run a nice 1/8" bead of RTV around thermostat housing and then go full circle around the thru holes. or do like me and smudge it on all sloppy then smooth it out .

Also make sure the thermostat doesnt slip out of its little groove when installing the housing, it should be easy to tell if it does. But that will forsure cause it to leak as well.
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:43 PM   #15
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Paper gaskets are garbage. Use rtv.
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:59 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enderr View Post
I think I put the gaskets on the thermostat on wrong. It's leaking a lot of collant from the thermostat housing but its on very tight
Sig is gay lol! Hatch ftw
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:10 AM   #17
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Haha.. i see too many shitty hatches in La.. too common.. ive only seen 4 good coupes.. lol

stupid dumbasses at pepboys said the paper gasket was the way to go.. i knew i was fucking right.. never trusting anyone but myself again..
Whats RTV is the silicone compound right? i just slab it on there and tighten that bitch up? i cut my hand up real bad trying to screw the housing in.. it was a pain.. gotta empty the rad AGAIN and buy new coolant temp worked btw.. but the coolant sensor wire is still... hanging there
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:56 AM   #18
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Quote:
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Haha.. i see too many shitty hatches in La.. too common.. ive only seen 4 good coupes.. lol

stupid dumbasses at pepboys said the paper gasket was the way to go.. i knew i was fucking right.. never trusting anyone but myself again..
Whats RTV is the silicone compound right? i just slab it on there and tighten that bitch up? i cut my hand up real bad trying to screw the housing in.. it was a pain.. gotta empty the rad AGAIN and buy new coolant temp worked btw.. but the coolant sensor wire is still... hanging there
Don't just "slab it on there".

Do as I said in my previous post. To much RTV and you can block the jiggle valve.
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Don't just "slab it on there".

Do as I said in my previous post. To much RTV and you can block the jiggle valve.
Ok, ill be attempting this today, I'll take pictures since you and others have been kind enough to help a guy out. Might as well humor you.
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:50 PM   #20
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I would love to be humored.
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Old 06-06-2012, 06:42 PM   #21
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Really happy because I was able to install an Accessory fan. The temp sits right below medium now.
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:16 PM   #22
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looks like the jiggle valve is on 2'o clock. it suppose to face on top, the 12' o clock position...
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:24 PM   #23
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looks like the jiggle valve is on 2'o clock. it suppose to face on top, the 12' o clock position...
you mean the actual thermostat inside the housing? Does it really matter? because I heard you can even drive w/o one.
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Old 06-06-2012, 08:47 PM   #24
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Sig is gay lol! Hatch ftw
Enjoy your lame analogue speedo and manual sunroof .

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Old 06-06-2012, 09:29 PM   #25
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The tips:
The jiggle valve should be at 12'oclock
Squeeze RTV from the bottom
The RTV nozzle cap is used to run a bead, so you don't have to put your finger in it.

The only thing cool about coupes... is the fact that, most of the parts fit the fastbacks!
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Old 06-07-2012, 01:06 AM   #26
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Quote:
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The tips:
The jiggle valve should be at 12'oclock
Squeeze RTV from the bottom
The RTV nozzle cap is used to run a bead, so you don't have to put your finger in it.

The only thing cool about coupes... is the fact that, most of the parts fit the fastbacks!
It's pretty bad you need a coupe parts on your hatch be as cool as a coupe.. it's practically a coupe by the point anyway.
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:48 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enderr View Post
you mean the actual thermostat inside the housing? Does it really matter? because I heard you can even drive w/o one.
If it runs and stays cool with it where its at you are probably fine, but it should be in the 12 O clock position.

If its on the bottom it will forsure cause problems, just off to the right a little though, you might be okay.
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Old 06-08-2012, 02:11 AM   #28
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I always use the high temp black liquid gasket by permatex. I wonder if he'll run into heat problems.
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:36 AM   #29
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Turns out my car runs at 1 notch below Half. So... its below the halfway mark on the gauge. I think I'm good. sorry for the bad quality pictures
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:50 AM   #30
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Maybe your sensor was fine and it was the wirings that was fubard.

But here ya go

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I need the part number for the coolant temp sensor female part.

does anyone know it?
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