Unstable above 80mph

[KiLLeR2001]

Sigh, problem solved. This dude doesn't even have adjustable RUCAs or rear toe arms. I adjusted my camber about -1.5 degrees and it messed up toe bad. The rear end was all over the place and felt very unsafe.

Get fully adjustable arms and a proper alignment to spec and you won't have anymore issues.

[ze12o]

Originally Posted by iLagX

maybe your wheels are bend?
possible bad tires?
rack n pinion bushing is shot?
steering column bushing?
lower control arm bushing/ball joints

1 wheel is bent on the lip but It never effected the driving.
Tires still have a lot of meat on them
I can change the bushings but they seem pretty tight last time i checked.
stock steering column bushing
stock lca bushing

Originally Posted by mad-ass

what brand wheels? there is a good reason to buy name brand wheels and it's because most knock-off wheels aren't made very square.

i know my knock-off aren't square at all, easy way to find out is to jack up your rear end so both rear wheels are off the ground and on jack stands, start the car put it in gear, get the wheels speed up to 35/40 mph ish and look at the rear wheel itself to confirm. the edge of the wheel should not be "wobbly" or going in and out etc.

Yokohama Super Advans Sa3r On the balance machine they looked fine.

Originally Posted by Croustibat

You need RUCAs for camber, rear traction and toe arms for toe (you cant adjust toe correctly either with stock arms) . the length of the rear traction arm depends on the height of the car so i cant tell you exactly how much.

You need a bump steer gauge to get the correct length (build one for cheap or buy one - around 80$ for the cheapest)

As for ARB droplink, you have some choice:
First set coilover height with disconnected droplinks (you can keep them in place, just unbolt them from the lower arms), then bolt one front and 1 rear.
Then:
1/ fine tune height until you can check there is no /very little load on the arms. If you cant because the chassis is bent or if it looks odd, add shims to change the ARB bush position up/down.

2/ get it corner weighted. Corner weight will tell you if it is loaded or not. Either pay for it or make a cheap DIY setup with 2-3 mechanical home scales per wheel.

3/ get adjustable droplinks Whiteline makes some. You can have some done too but it will cost nearly the same (around 100-120€ / pair)

You can feel that ARBs are loading one side of the car mostly when your suspension goes on droop / compression. The car feels weird, just like one side lifts higher than it should.

You could also start to worry about roll center correction, which i would suggest if you drive fast, but then it is going to cost money again.

Your best bet, if you can, would be to change the knuckles for lowering ones. They lower the car without messing with geometry (basically they offset the wheel bearing bolting points), letting you keep the OEM arms and geometry. It can be a money saver over changing every suspension arm in your car.

If you want to learn more about geometry i suggest motoiq.com suspension tech articles for introduction, then zilvia's thread about roll center correction

Thanks you've been a great help. I will probably go to rt tuning to do a full alignment

Originally Posted by thefro526

There are a lot of good ideas in this thread, some of which are way over my head, but have you tried checking the simple stuff?

I've had similar problems when my wheels were out of balance. Cruising at highway speeds and I'll get a consistent 'wobble' of sorts. The problem was corrected by having my tires balanced.

Also look into how your wheels are sitting against the hub. Many after market wheels come over-bored to fit as many applications as possible. This prevents the wheels from sitting concentric with the hub - a set of $10 hubcentric rings usually fix this problem.

I never actually thought of that. Ill measure the bore when I get off this weekend

Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001

Sigh, problem solved. This dude doesn't even have adjustable RUCAs or rear toe arms. I adjusted my camber about -1.5 degrees and it messed up toe bad. The rear end was all over the place and felt very unsafe.

Get fully adjustable arms and a proper alignment to spec and you won't have anymore issues.

I wouldn't say that much, I've been lower and never had this problem. Maybe it's taken a toll on my stock bushings.

Thanks everyone for the input. I hope I get this fixed. Next paycheck will be dedicated to fixing this problem.