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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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Oil Issue
Hey everyone, so im having an issue with my oil recently having the milky look. How ever im having trouble believing it forsure my head gasket, my cyls are all healthy psi about 148 across all cyls. Also my radiator fluid is not lowering, its staying at the same topped off level it has been for over a year now.
I dont believe the milk is coming from my coolant system, usually if it were the coolant fluid would atleast lower and would cause me to have to refill my radiator very often which i have not needed to do for some time now. Is it possible the cold temp's where i live is causing some sort of condensation inside the block ? I live at about 4000 ft altitude where it gets in the mid 20's at night in winter. On a separate issue, Ive been trying to get my oil psi to rise over the stock oil pump. From searching around on here a common swap for the ka24e is the L28 pump. I ordered and installed a bran new turbo l28 oil pump and it only raised the oil psi to about 20. Then today after starting it, its back at the stock pumps output which was 10 psi. I do have an aftermarket oil cooler which has some pretty large oil lines which i believe is mainly why my oil psi is so low. How ever i do not want to take it out because it truely does a great job and maintaining a cool operating temp.
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1994 toyota supra...... n-a D= 1992 nissan 240sx KA24E-T fully Built =D |
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#3 |
Zilvia Member
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Well if that oil cooler is really that thick to cause low psi. I would suggest removing it or finding one with thinner lines. Do u even really need an oil cooler? I thought u said it was pretty cold there? What are u using the car for?
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#4 | |
Nissanaholic!
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Quote:
In my opinion and any car that is built or built to perform should have cooling a big factor. I built the motor from top to bottom to be a beginner drift car. Just to practice and get the feel. and after awhile possibly upgrade to a better motor or different car.
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#5 | |
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#6 |
Nissanaholic!
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Im imagining so unfortunately. i may just look for slightly thinner lines but keep the same cooler it self.
How ever i am still needing to figure out why or how this moisture or water is getting into my oil. Im wondering if its the cold temp's causing an excessive moisture build up inside the block.
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1994 toyota supra...... n-a D= 1992 nissan 240sx KA24E-T fully Built =D |
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#7 | |
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#8 |
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#9 |
Nissanaholic!
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Luckly my engine is no where near like in those photos , its literally just a very thin little haze of milky looking stip on the dip stick when i pull it out. And after the car is cooled and all the oil is back down in the pan it looks perfectly clean.
The condensation section does make sense, we have had some very cool climates very recently so im assuming/hoping thats all it is .
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1994 toyota supra...... n-a D= 1992 nissan 240sx KA24E-T fully Built =D |
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#10 | |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Quote:
My wife's 325i BMW gets the white milky residue under the oil filler cap too. I'm pretty sure its just condensation due to weather/temp changes and the car not being driven far enough. As far as moisture under the cap, it probably is just condensation. But 148 psi across the cylinder seems really low for an NA engine. I know the KA24Es have slightly lower compression over the DEs but minimum acceptable compression for them is about 150 psi. I'd drop a capful of oil in those cylinder to see if the compression jumps. If it doesnt jump, then its probably your HG going out. |
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#11 |
Nissanaholic!
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Its a ka-t i forgot to mention sorry.
Also i didnt really mean to say trying to get the engine to run cooler but more or less maintain a decent temp. When ever your drifting and reving alot in order to drift your engine over the course of time is getting hotter and hotter.. the less cooling equipment you have the more and more power you start to lose the longer your driving.. It's mainly to keep the engine from getting to the temp where your just losing power. In my opinion with no oil cooler, especially for drifting its just going to be real hard on your engines internals. Especially in summer time. As long as i can maintain a good healthy temp not to hot for cold the engine should perform well with out any oil cooking or starvation. Also, the moisture isnt necessarily under the cap from what i can see. Its just on the dip stick. A very light amount almost un noticable when you first look at it, you have to look closely to see it.
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#12 | |
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#13 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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My suggestion for you, for engine longevity, make sure you have a thermostat for your oil cooler. That way, the oil isnt flowing thru with when you're trying to get the car up to temp, specially in the winter.
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#14 |
Nissanaholic!
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Sounds interesting, never heard of a thermo for an oil cooler how ever does sound like a good idea. but not sure where or how its possible.. Im sure i would have to buy a whole new setup in order to get it.
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#15 | |
Nissanaholic!
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Quote:
*EDIT* this is how the oil looks right this moment ![]()
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#16 | |
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Quote:
If you're running an oil cooler then I would suggest that you get a thermostat for the oil cooler. Cold oil is bad for the engine, PERIOD... EDIT: I saw the pic of your oil and the last description. It seems that the oil is foaming up for some reason. That would explain your low oil pressure and the bubbles you see in the oil. It could be a problem with the pump or the pickup tube causing the pump to cavitate and foam up the oil. You've clearly got an oiling system issue. Check for any leaks in your oil cooler/lines as well. |
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#17 |
Nissanaholic!
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The turbo is an oil cooled turbo only.
The oil cooler would not make the oil cold.. just maintain the oil temp from getting higher and higher. I dont see any bubbles in that picture ive just taken. Also if there was a coolant leak i would imagine my fluid level would drop very frequently .. i havent had to add any water ever. My oil pump is a bran new un used pump (l28) There doesnt seem to be any leaks, rust spots or air bubbles in the oil when the car is running.
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#18 | |
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