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Old 04-25-2013, 01:04 PM   #1
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Trying to charge me $160! blah!

So my local mechanics are trying to charge me 160 to remove and replace my 16 wheels studs. The dude says theyre gonna have to remove the spindles on the front wheels because they will get in the way and theyre going to have to replace the bearing as well. Replacing studs i can do myself but i dont have the time nor an impact gun. I dont know if doing it without an impact is safe. Also, im not too sure about the spindle and bearing deal. I think theyre just trying to jack up the price. What say you fellas?
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:25 PM   #2
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Then pay the man!! If you dont have the time or tools then why bother. That price isnt that bad.
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:27 PM   #3
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Then pay the man!! If you dont have the time or tools then why bother. That price isnt that bad.
So youre saying replacing the bearings and spindle is necessary?
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:32 PM   #4
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I highly doubt they would replace your spindles..as for the bearings and studs for 160 is that parts included? Cause if it is that's effin cheap..I wouldn't do that job for 160 haha if the parts are not included then it's an alright price still..and yeah for the rear studs you have to remove the hub to be able to have room to
Put the stud in..and for the front if you still have your dust shield then yeah they have to remove the front hub to get to it too..a machine shop charges around 10 a hub to press in bearings so keep that in mind as well
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:36 PM   #5
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iim pretty sure the the new hub comes with studs.
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:39 PM   #6
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I highly doubt they would replace your spindles..as for the bearings and studs for 160 is that parts included? Cause if it is that's effin cheap..I wouldn't do that job for 160 haha if the parts are not included then it's an alright price still..and yeah for the rear studs you have to remove the hub to be able to have room to
Put the stud in..and for the front if you still have your dust shield then yeah they have to remove the front hub to get to it too..a machine shop charges around 10 a hub to press in bearings so keep that in mind as well
No no, they are only replacing the bearings. I have all 16 studs. All i need for them to do is the labor but i wasnt sure if 160 was a fair price.
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:43 PM   #7
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I'd pay $100 at most.

it's easy though, you should do it yourself.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
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I'd pay $100 at most.

it's easy though, you should do it yourself.
Is it ok if i torque the new studs without an impact?
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:21 PM   #9
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You don't know if doing it without an impact gun is safe?????????

I should throw that gun at your face, seriously. That is the easiest way to fuck shit up. What you wanna use the impact gun for??? to bring the studs into the hub? Use a press or c-clamp to start it. Then tighten them slowly.

I've seen tons of people impact new studs on and then it spins, that's when your fucked. If you were not using impact, you would see it spin and stop, so you don't destroy your hub
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:22 PM   #10
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its possible but a pain in the ass.

you might as well spend the labor money to buy this-

Electric Impact Wrench - 1/2"

they have 20% off coupons all the time. Print one out, take it to the store, and buy one.

it will make the whole process much easier.

I've personally used an impact gun to get studs installed. first you LINE up the stud, put a bunch of washers, and the lug nut at the end of it.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hashiriya415 View Post
You don't know if doing it without an impact gun is safe?????????

I should throw that gun at your face, seriously. That is the easiest way to fuck shit up. What you wanna use the impact gun for??? to bring the studs into the hub? Use a press or c-clamp to start it. Then tighten them slowly.

I've seen tons of people impact new studs on and then it spins, that's when your fucked. If you were not using impact, you would see it spin and stop, so you don't destroy your hub
What i mean by safe is if i can securely torque the new studs into the hub with manpower and be sure that they wont come loose you meanie.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamg View Post
its possible but a pain in the ass.

you might as well spend the labor money to buy this-

Electric Impact Wrench - 1/2"

they have 20% off coupons all the time. Print one out, take it to the store, and buy one.

it will make the whole process much easier.

I've personally used an impact gun to get studs installed. first you LINE up the stud, put a bunch of washers, and the lug nut at the end of it.
yes im trying to find the most efficient way to do this. thanx man
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:01 PM   #13
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$160 including new wheel bearings is definitely a good price. Are your wheel bearings bad? You can pull the studs in by hand though. I usually use a spare lugnut, some washers, and anti-sieze to pull them in. I really need a wheel stud installer tool though, that's so much easier.
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racepar1 View Post
$160 including new wheel bearings is definitely a good price. Are your wheel bearings bad? You can pull the studs in by hand though. I usually use a spare lugnut, some washers, and anti-sieze to pull them in. I really need a wheel stud installer tool though, that's so much easier.
My bearings should be fine. Im not hearing any weird noises or anything. Ok ill try and do the rear 8 for sure on my own. thanx breh.
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Old 04-25-2013, 04:56 PM   #15
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Lisle 22800 Wheel Stud Installer on eBay!

get this and go at it..

you can knock out the wheels studs with a BFH.


Then put the new ones in with the tool I posted above as well as a Impact, set on low.


should only take you a few minutes per hub.. Thats if you know how to remove a brake caliper lol.
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Old 04-25-2013, 04:56 PM   #16
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or you can use a lug nut and some spacers.... open end lug will be best to use.
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:02 PM   #17
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I always replace studs myself without an impact. I set them in with a clamp then draw them in with a ratchet/long steel pipe combination on an open lugnut/washer combination. Hard on your body but it's worked out for me every time.
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:47 PM   #18
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so much fail.
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:03 PM   #19
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There is no problem with them coming loose if you pull them in by hand tools and always remember to loosen and tighten them up the next 50 miles. The new studs will stretch slightly at first.
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:20 PM   #20
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If you don't have the time or the tools, pay up.
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:36 PM   #21
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All you need is a 5lb hammer and 17mm to get your rotors off. Hammer old one out, hammer new one in. Finish off by tightening down as needed. Just do it on the street. If cops ask, just say you were parking your car and the brakes fell off so you just want to put them back on
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:42 PM   #22
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Dude, remove the rotors by the two bolts in the back, move the rotor and caliper together to the side (don't hit the brakes or ebrake with the caliper off of the rotor or you're fucked) use a big hammer to hit the old lugs out with a nut threaded on the end to avoid mushrooming, pull the new ones on using a nut. Just double check and make sure theyre all the way in. If they're extended lugs, you may have to take the hub off, but that is simply one 30MM nut holding it to the spindle for the front, not a big deal. Oh, never use an impact to put nuts or bolts in. Fuck that.

Nobody is going to give you a hard time about working on your car anywhere as long as you aren't spilling fluids all over the place.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:10 PM   #23
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I read 5 posts in here before i decided to say you should pay the man. He's not robbing you blind. Just WATCH the mechanic/person as they are doing it if you are allowed to do so.

For the time, effort and task, $160 is a good price. I've rebuilt several sets of hubs, have had to replace wheel studs, have had to service brakes, rebuild engines. If you REALLY want to diy you need to get your hands on a haynes repair manual, download the fsm and use the search function on the various s-chassis resources you have at your fingertips but nobody is going to beat you up questioning the price of a job. Actually i encourage people get a second or third opinion before coughing up that cash.

Best of luck to you. For real though, if i was a noob (i used to be many years ago and still am in alot of ways) i'd be pumped to pay that little for a job like that. Locally, i'd expect to pay $400 for the same job if not more. Some "mechanics" are great con artists/thieves.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:16 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Is it ok if i torque the new studs without an impact?

torque wrench will be most adequate im sure in the fsm has the torqueing specs for the wheel studs
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:59 AM   #25
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Ok well sounds like the price is fair for the most part. Thats what i really wanted to know i guess. Im short on money so ill try to do the rear 8 on my own using the info ive read. Thanx to everyone. Cheers!
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:23 AM   #26
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the front are easy as shit too. why are you gonna do half, then take it to a shop?

seriously, get a wooden block and a metal mallet, ~3 pounds is enough. place block on lug nut and smack it with mallet, so you don't fuck up the threads and can keep them as spares/sell them

do one at a time and make sure it comes out, theres usually room to put them in/out where the caliper goes on the brake shield.

again, doing one at a time, put the new one in and hand tighten it as far as you can using an old open-end lugnut, reverse is better (flat surface) and some washers or an oversized nut. put your car in gear/ebrake (if for rear) or have a friend step on the brakes and then tighten it with a big ass breaker bar.

if you dont have a friend, use a wooden bat or something, i used the handle of a hammer, and use it as leverage to counter the spinning of the hub as you tighten the lugnut. stack books/jack stand and use it to lock the hammer in place so you can really tighten it down.

once done, move onto next. and so on. i did all of mine in like 2 hours, with no idea wtf i was doing. seriously, its not hard

even if it takes 4 hours to do, i doubt youre getting paid 40$ an hour to have it be worth your saved time to get a shop to do it
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:24 AM   #27
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Ok I stopped reading after a few posts. What I am gathering is this mechanic is going to remove all 4 wheels , brake components, press out bearings, press in new bearings, replace all the studs, and then put it all back together. $160 is hella cheap, no it is not hard work when you have all the tools on hand, but it is tedious. If you don't want to pay him his clearly undercut price do it yourself. I would charge you more if you brought it to me. No way I am hammering out all 16 studs that why I bought a press.
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:28 AM   #28
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Could have done it yourself if all you need to do is replace the studs.

S13 Wheel Stud Replacement - Nissan 240SX Forums

HOW TO: Change a broken wheel stud : 240sx General Discussion

If swapping out hubs then goto Autozone and rent the axle sockets for $20 and the breaker bar for $25.

AutoZone also has a 50 Duralast piece tool kit on sale/clearance right now for $22 and a 22 piece Titan wrench set (SAE/Metri) for $20.
Pretty much all you need for most basics jobs on these cars.


Good price nonetheless considering the job.
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:31 AM   #29
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Lmfao literally half the people are telling me to do it myself and the other half saying to take it to the shop. I clearly just need to figure this out on my own. Thanx anyways chaps.
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:24 AM   #30
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yes you do. If I was not hurting on cash because I have a worthless, lazy, Life/money sucking Wife I would pay some one else to do so I can do some thing else while they work. I hate repairing cars, love building. same damn work totally different mind set.
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