help me fix my shitty sr20 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

cnazzaro240 · 08-19-2013, 09:16 PM

hey guys im having an issue with my sr that has me taring my hair out. first it had some strange dead spot between 2k-3k i checked the ecu and got code 34 which was knock sensor i guess it was pulling timing because it detected a knock, after fixing that i was driving around and it got alot better then all over again it was having a similar problem, but i noticed the temp would drop drastically as i hit this dead spot so i changed the cts. and it was all down hill from there. I took a 2.5 hour drive to the 240sxmotoring meet and about half way there the car started misfiring like crazy. every time i would pull all i would get is loud pops, blows black smoke, stinks like fuel and the wideband would read straight 10. also at idle it jumps beween 800-1.5k and when its warm it wont start. i assume its some sort of ignition problem. so i put brand new plugs in gaped at .30 and tested all the coil packs all read 1ohm and the alternator is good as well. i also took the sub harness off the cts and checked it out it was really sketchy so i re wired it and it appears to operate well it warms up and the needle stays steady. i have the battery in stock location with stock ground and power wire with a a stock sidemount. and the engine harness is from wiring specialties i bought it a year ago and installed it in november. what else should i check? the ignitor or coil pack harness? how do i go about that? thanks alot everyone!

codyace · 08-19-2013, 09:38 PM

what plugs? I'd gap them lower just in case. make sure you don't have a ripped coupler;

csmerchant · 08-19-2013, 09:47 PM

Given the idle surge and extra rich on boost, that sounds like a boost/vacuum leak to me.

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cnazzaro240 · 08-19-2013, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codyace

what plugs? I'd gap them lower just in case. make sure you don't have a ripped coupler;

im running NGK BKR6E and ya i did a boost leak test a week ago and the system was air tight, but that was before this problem occurred, i assumed it was good but i guess with an sr i should never assume. ill do another test tomorrow

Quote:

Originally Posted by csmerchant

Given the idle surge and extra rich on boost, that sounds like a boost/vacuum leak to me.

ya im gonna do a boost leak test tomorrow to verify.

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any of you familiar with vacuum blocks? i have a vibrant one with a main feed line from the manifold to the block, and a bunch of lines off of it to boost controller, bov, boost gauge. can this somehow cause an issue?

thanks alot guys

csmerchant · 08-19-2013, 10:32 PM

I'm not a fan of the vacuum manifolds, just for the sake of having direct sources to the devices. Especially the bov and boost controller I've always ran directly from the intake manifold; boost gauge I usually tap into the line for the fuel pressure regulator.

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Blues13 · 08-20-2013, 12:22 AM

What did your plugs look like before you put in the new ones? Were they all in similar condition? If one plug stood out as being much worse, you could then isolate in fixing that one cylinder (coilpacks, leaky injectors, etc.). Coilpacks don't go all at the same time.

If they all were similarly bad, you can then start double and triple checking all the obvious stuff.. like loose couplers, vacuum line leaks, electrical grounds, etc.

codyace · 08-20-2013, 12:05 PM

6 should be ok, I'd bring hte gap a tad lower and see from there. It does sound like a compromised coupler, but it could be something as simple as a failing coilpack or even a a funky MAF

cnazzaro240 · 08-20-2013, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csmerchant

I'm not a fan of the vacuum manifolds, just for the sake of having direct sources to the devices. Especially the bov and boost controller I've always ran directly from the intake manifold; boost gauge I usually tap into the line for the fuel pressure regulator.

ya im probably gonna remove it

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Quote:

Originally Posted by codyace

6 should be ok, I'd bring hte gap a tad lower and see from there. It does sound like a compromised coupler, but it could be something as simple as a failing coilpack or even a a funky MAF

i checked all the coil packs but i will double check, i there a way to test the harness? ill check the maf to my friend has and extra that he just took off hi car working

and to both of you how should i run my vaccume line? i know the top left on the throttle body is fpr and ill T the gauge into it, the top right is bov, and where should i run the controller? its an hks evc so i have a line to the wastegate, one to the ic hot pipe, and theres a vac like that i have no idea where to put, where should i run that? again thanks alot guys

08-19-2013, 09:16 PM	#1
cnazzaro240 Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Staten Island (unfortunately) Age: 31 Posts: 229 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	help me fix my shitty sr20 hey guys im having an issue with my sr that has me taring my hair out. first it had some strange dead spot between 2k-3k i checked the ecu and got code 34 which was knock sensor i guess it was pulling timing because it detected a knock, after fixing that i was driving around and it got alot better then all over again it was having a similar problem, but i noticed the temp would drop drastically as i hit this dead spot so i changed the cts. and it was all down hill from there. I took a 2.5 hour drive to the 240sxmotoring meet and about half way there the car started misfiring like crazy. every time i would pull all i would get is loud pops, blows black smoke, stinks like fuel and the wideband would read straight 10. also at idle it jumps beween 800-1.5k and when its warm it wont start. i assume its some sort of ignition problem. so i put brand new plugs in gaped at .30 and tested all the coil packs all read 1ohm and the alternator is good as well. i also took the sub harness off the cts and checked it out it was really sketchy so i re wired it and it appears to operate well it warms up and the needle stays steady. i have the battery in stock location with stock ground and power wire with a a stock sidemount. and the engine harness is from wiring specialties i bought it a year ago and installed it in november. what else should i check? the ignitor or coil pack harness? how do i go about that? thanks alot everyone!

08-19-2013, 09:38 PM	#2
codyace Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Poconos, PA Age: 40 Posts: 8,030 Trader Rating: (58) Feedback Score: 58 reviews	what plugs? I'd gap them lower just in case. make sure you don't have a ripped coupler; __________________ *Want Air Conditioning in your SR20 Swapped car? Check out www.sr20acbrackets.com for more information! Quest Alternator Conversions for SR20!* Check my Group Buy! Tired of lousy internal gates? Go external wastegate with one of my manifolds, Check out my group buy

08-20-2013, 12:05 PM	#7
codyace Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Poconos, PA Age: 40 Posts: 8,030 Trader Rating: (58) Feedback Score: 58 reviews	6 should be ok, I'd bring hte gap a tad lower and see from there. It does sound like a compromised coupler, but it could be something as simple as a failing coilpack or even a a funky MAF __________________ *Want Air Conditioning in your SR20 Swapped car? Check out www.sr20acbrackets.com for more information! Quest Alternator Conversions for SR20!* Check my Group Buy! Tired of lousy internal gates? Go external wastegate with one of my manifolds, Check out my group buy

08-19-2013, 09:47 PM	#3
csmerchant Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: SoCal Age: 36 Posts: 18 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Given the idle surge and extra rich on boost, that sounds like a boost/vacuum leak to me. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

08-19-2013, 10:32 PM	#5
csmerchant Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: SoCal Age: 36 Posts: 18 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I'm not a fan of the vacuum manifolds, just for the sake of having direct sources to the devices. Especially the bov and boost controller I've always ran directly from the intake manifold; boost gauge I usually tap into the line for the fuel pressure regulator. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

08-20-2013, 12:22 AM	#6
Blues13 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: OC Posts: 435 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	What did your plugs look like before you put in the new ones? Were they all in similar condition? If one plug stood out as being much worse, you could then isolate in fixing that one cylinder (coilpacks, leaky injectors, etc.). Coilpacks don't go all at the same time. If they all were similarly bad, you can then start double and triple checking all the obvious stuff.. like loose couplers, vacuum line leaks, electrical grounds, etc.