New Garrett GTX2867r

[RalliartRsX]

Compressor maps will answer that question

[Def]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

PoorMans180SX, I am going to respectfly disagree and unless anyone has attempted to install one, they won't know the trials and tribulations involved to install

I will say this now. For a straight bolt on and the Easy button out, GOT WITH THE GTX. Simple. For 90% of the people, the idea of transient response and boost recovery is not worth the extra entry cost (and in all honesty, if I didn't get an inside line, it wouldn't be worth it to me either for a bottom mount).

I have a full writeup of the install which I haven't posted on Zilvia, but I will give a quick breakdown

1) Off the bat, the compressor housing does NOT fit with a stock spec mount and bracket (read: Nismo mount and stock braket). You will have to either a) clearance the mount/bracket or b) get different mounts

2) The BOV (be it stock or Fullrace) will interfere with the water port on the block, regardless of if you have AN fittings, banjo bolts, etc ($$$$ + headache)

3) The Garrett lines, although compatible, probaby won't fit apart from the oil line considering the water line fitment issue and the eventual issue of clocking the turbo ($$$ for new lines + headache)

4) The oil drain will need either new fittings and lines as the Garrett outlet does not fit and interferes with the compressor housing (I ended up making a spacer out of SS or you have to spend $$$$ on new fittings and headache)

5) The EFR has a flanged intlet/outlet, meaning your clocking plates and adapters won't be compatible. Simple as getting a few new couplers and you are good to go, but again $$$$ and headache since it has to be clocked perfectly

6) The downpipe. The biggest part of the ordeal, this is going to be the biggest const incurred on fitment. Unless you have the meands, you will have to spend $$$$ on the flange as it is not a NORMAL V band, but a half Moon or Morman flange ($$$) then you have to get it fabbed up

Again, GET THE GTX OVER THE EFR IF YOU ARE GOING BOTTOM MOUNT!! Not worth the headache and cost incurred as even with buying the GT housing, the installation costs begin to skyrocket once all is said and done!

Sorry for the thread jack. Just want to make sure there is correct information out there.

I will post my write up later if you want Poorman, and send you a PM.

To be honest, some of that same stuff will pop up on a GTX turbo in the place of a T25/T28. That said, I think most of the little fab jobs you listed aren't that big in the grand scheme of things, and pretty minor in the overall effort to make a reliable 400+ rwhp SR.

But I do agree that the EFRs offer enough packaging issues to make bottom mount an unattractive position for the majority.

Originally Posted by lg54

It seems pretty clear the way I need to go. I wonder what would be the differences between the GTX2867 and the all new GTX2871r.

The GTX 67 mm wheel is already more than enough for what the 53.8 mm NS111 turbine can power, a GTX 71 mm wheel is getting into really bad mismatch territory.

I'm not sure why Garrett seems to be going farther down the path of saddling their turbines with too much compressor wheel. They've always done that a bit more than other turbo companies, but now they're pushing it to the next level with billet wheels that offer 10-15% more flow in the same package with the same 20 year old turbine on the back end.

[Freddy]

Found info on a new turbo by Garrett the GTX2971R

GTX2971R

If you aren’t familiar with the Garrett nomenclature, then us saying GTX2971R is just a bunch of random letters and numbers. The GTX designates that the compressor wheel is a forged milled compressor wheel. The forged compressor wheels are much more robust and stronger than a cast wheel.

The 2971 indicates that the size of the charger is a 29 (no physical reference, it is just smaller than a 30 and bigger than a 28 series. The 71 represents the compressor wheel exducer. This is a huge key here because not all manufacturers identify the same part of the compressor wheel.

R represents that the rotating assembly is spinning on ceramic dual ball bearings in a water cooled center section.

When Garrett designed this turbocharger, they focused on quick response. So, while the turbine wheel is a little smaller than a GT3071, it has been optimized to flow more. So, the charger gets on boost quicker but can handle more flow at the top end. As a result, the GTX2971R can flow enough air to support 360 to 640 horsepower and it is recommended for engines ranging from 1.8L to 3.0L.

[angel mkiv]

Hey what clutch are you guys using? I ended up putting down 373rwhp and 315ft lbs of torque on a dynojet at 18psi with the .64 a/r turbo.after I got it tuned my throw out bearing gave out and ruined the forks on the pressure plate( act stage 2 6 puck sprung) and wanted to see what you guys are using? From what I have read it seems the exedy stage 2 is what most use...

[BlackZenkiS14]

I'm 419/350 and I use an Exedy Stage2, 3 puck. But I'm counting the days on it lol

I need a new one also.

[MADE]

I didn't make as much as you did but I have same setup HD-SS 6 puck sprung. I think I can upgrade to the Extreme PP IIRC.

[slider2828]

The best pressure plate with disc and streetable is the RPS Max Turbo clutches....

I use a sprung full face... Love it and its not too expensive. about $400 ish

It holds really well for a couple of years now 375/326...

Looks like MVP still has em...

http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/merchant/240s13.shtml#

[RalliartRsX]

Originally Posted by slider2828

The best pressure plate with disc and streetable is the RPS Max Turbo clutches....

It's all personal opinion as there is no absolute BEST..........What my personal requirements are and my personal preference is is probably light years from what yours is for instance.

I am running a FX400 sprung 6 puck. Holds 450-490WHP and 400+ lb ft at the wheels.

Barely above stock pressure and engagement point is not harsh at all. I can DD this clutch all day if I like.

Not sure what you are looking for angel mkiv, but that is my perosnal opinion on the FX400/FX500 series of clutches from Clutchmasters

[Dboyizmlg]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

It's all personal opinion as there is no absolute BEST..........What my personal requirements are and my personal preference is is probably light years from what yours is for instance.

I am running a FX400 sprung 6 puck. Holds 450-490WHP and 400+ lb ft at the wheels.

Barely above stock pressure and engagement point is not harsh at all. I can DD this clutch all day if I like.

Not sure what you are looking for angel mkiv, but that is my perosnal opinion on the FX400/FX500 series of clutches from Clutchmasters

Agree!

I currently have exedy stage 2 in my sr, an after about a year of occasional street abuse of 330ftlbs tq, it's finally slipping

But, I got an awesome deal on the FX400 I have waiting in my garage along with other goodies.

Clutchmaster FX400 is deff a beast. I have driven my friends car with his, and the pedal feel is a bit stiffer. But grabs very aggressive, I like it.

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

It's all personal opinion as there is no absolute BEST..........What my personal requirements are and my personal preference is is probably light years from what yours is for instance.

I am running a FX400 sprung 6 puck. Holds 450-490WHP and 400+ lb ft at the wheels.

Barely above stock pressure and engagement point is not harsh at all. I can DD this clutch all day if I like.

Not sure what you are looking for angel mkiv, but that is my perosnal opinion on the FX400/FX500 series of clutches from Clutchmasters

Depends also what clutches you have driven? Also depends on budget as well. I have driven on the exedy stage 2 vs. OG Giken vs. Exedy Hyper Single vs. RPS.

Exedy stage 2 didn't last 6 months on the track, granted it was the shaved down version but whatever. OS Giken and Exedy's feel a bit stiffer and RPS was very close to those. Big thing is these are full face sprung disks, which are going to engagement a lot smoother and earlier than any 6 puck disk....

I am just saying that 6 pucks are harsh and even the exedy stage 2 which is a hybrid 6 puck/full face was a bit hard engagement.

That is what lead to my conclusion in terms of value. Also why is there no clamping force for the CM FX400? This should be the basis on deciding for most clutches besides pedal feel and cost?

[fatduece]

RPS Max Series Clutch with Street Disc for SR20DET
Part # RP MS-17538-ST


This package includes the RPS Turbo Clutch Max Pressure Plate and the RPS OEM-style clutch disc. This clutch kit can hold up to 475 foot-pounds of torque & is 80% stiffer than stock.

This clutch is the most streetable clutch you can buy that will hold 475 foot-pounds of torque!

RPS is the only clutch company with a U.S. Patent (#5,769,973) on their single diaphragm pressure plate technology.

MSRP $483.76
Your Price $411.19

This looks like could hold a lot of power, but what the hell does 80% stiffer than stock mean? Its hard for me to figure out since I've been running the exedy stage 2 since the day of the swap. Will I be growing horse like calves? If its a nightmare to drive in traffic then id rather stay away.

[az_240]

^If the pedal is too stiff you can always get a larger slave cylinder such as Nismo/z31.

I plan on getting another RPS clutch if I can't find a nice used OS Giken TS2B

[Tom N]

Pickin the right clutch is really hard. People tend to have their own likes and dislikes with what they want out of a clutch. I personally hate twin disks.
I'm currently using a Spec stage 3 which is a sprung 6 puck along with a Toda flywheel.
It has been holding 460hp and 450tq for the past year. Car shifts great with it and is surprisingly slipable for a 6 puck. Being too grabby was a concern for me when I elected to try this clutch as I am pretty finicky over clutches. I can say I have been very pleased with it for a clutch that will hold 450tq.
Now the only other clutch I have experience with in this car is a silkroad clutch set up.

[fatduece]

Thanks AZ-240.

[angel mkiv]

So I'm a little confused on the exedy stage 2 3 puck clutch..some websites say it can handle 400hp/350tq but on frsport and exedy's website it says it's rated for 275tq? Wtf is goin on here??

[bshotts]

Ran the "standard" Exedy Stage 2 bc that was the go to clutch when I did my swap...circa 2002...yes kiddos 12 years ago and even I was late to the SR game. At the time the majority SR owners I feel like were making in the area of 300whp give or take. Exedy can handle that for awhile but be sure you are asking alot of it at those power/torque levels especially if driving spiritedly (like you should drive, obvs) and will find its limits/ replacing it in a relatively short amount of time. SPEC stage 2+ to 3 seems like a great all application for uncrazy power/tq levels.

[S14_ZX10R]

very interested in seeing this threw I have a fully built sr with a gt3076r made 420 on 91 going e85 in a few months looking at 600 but I might want to run this turbo really want to see dyno lol

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by fatduece

This looks like could hold a lot of power, but what the hell does 80% stiffer than stock mean? Its hard for me to figure out since I've been running the exedy stage 2 since the day of the swap. Will I be growing horse like calves? If its a nightmare to drive in traffic then id rather stay away.

Exedy Stage 2 actually has 2 SKU's in the system. I know cause I had both. The higher rated clamp force (handle more HP) one has a 40% less life because the friction plate is shaved to hold more power. The one that is rate with with less clamp force (handle less power) is not shaved therefore has more life, but can't handle the HP.

RPS Max Street Disc is slightly heavier than a BMW M3 clutch, so I'd say 2x stiffer than the Exedy stage 2, but Exedy's hybrid pucked disc's have less modulation (harsher engagement). So the RPS Max street disc is heavier but engages more smoothly due to having better modulation. For the value, RPS is a good brand is what I am saying.

Now if you want stock like feel and ability to handle the HP, you need to go dual friction discs.... (Gotta pay to play.)

Never tried a CM FX's, so I can't comment on those.

[az_240]

^OR larger slave cylinder helps too

[Rb26kouki]

I got a Exedy Hyper Single with Nismo Slave Pedal feels good Just little on the soft side perfect for daily driving

[fatduece]

Originally Posted by slider2828

RPS Max Street Disc is slightly heavier than a BMW M3 clutch, so I'd say 2x stiffer than the Exedy stage 2, but Exedy's hybrid pucked disc's have less modulation (harsher engagement). So the RPS Max street disc is heavier but engages more smoothly due to having better modulation. For the value, RPS is a good brand is what I am saying.

Now if you want stock like feel and ability to handle the HP, you need to go dual friction discs.... (Gotta pay to play.)

Never tried a CM FX's, so I can't comment on those.

Holy cow!?! 2 times stiffer?! Yea, Ill definitely be running a nismo slave. Twin disk is not an option. Ill be running a 350z tranny and those twins are not compatible.

Originally Posted by az_240

^OR larger slave cylinder helps too

Thanks again guys

[Member]

Wanted to share my results. I've been running this setup for about a year now but finally got it on a Dyno.

Wiesco 9.5:1 87mm pistons
Eagle H beam rods
Acl Race bearings
Cometic Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs
BC 272 Cams, Springs, and Ti Retainers
Circuit Sports Cam Gears
Garrett GTX2867r .64
Custom intake manifold
PBM High Mount Intercooler
Power FC D-Jetro
LS2 Coils
Deatsch Werks 810cc injectors
Sard FPR
Dual Walbro 255lph fuel pumps

Tuned on E85 at 2 bar 422whp 409wtq

[angel mkiv]

Originally Posted by Member

Wanted to share my results. I've been running this setup for about a year now but finally got it on a Dyno.

Wiesco 9.5:1 87mm pistons
Eagle H beam rods
Acl Race bearings
Cometic Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs
BC 272 Cams, Springs, and Ti Retainers
Circuit Sports Cam Gears
Garrett GTX2867r .64
Custom intake manifold
PBM High Mount Intercooler
Power FC D-Jetro
LS2 Coils
Deatsch Werks 810cc injectors
Sard FPR
Dual Walbro 255lph fuel pumps

Tuned on E85 at 2 bar 422whp 409wtq

Dam these numbers really make me want to go with e85 but sucks I don't have a station nearby..il just stick to water/meth injection later down the road

[galant_x]

Originally Posted by Member

Wanted to share my results. I've been running this setup for about a year now but finally got it on a Dyno.

Wiesco 9.5:1 87mm pistons
Eagle H beam rods
Acl Race bearings
Cometic Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs
BC 272 Cams, Springs, and Ti Retainers
Circuit Sports Cam Gears
Garrett GTX2867r .64
Custom intake manifold
PBM High Mount Intercooler
Power FC D-Jetro
LS2 Coils
Deatsch Werks 810cc injectors
Sard FPR
Dual Walbro 255lph fuel pumps

Tuned on E85 at 2 bar 422whp 409wtq

Those nummbers seams way to low for that fuel and boost pressure.
I ran 415 WHP on 1,85 bar with 95 RON with the GTX2867, and that was on som way milder cams aswell.

How mutch timming are you running with the E85 at those boost pressures!?

Are you sure those injectors are 810cc?

Theres no way they will support 420 WHP on E85.

[Member]

19 degrees at full boost. And it was spinning on the Dyno. It picked up 30lb/ft just by tightening the straps. So I'm thinking the power should be a little higher. However I know the exhaust housing is a huge factor. The torque is what was pretty impressive to me. Also I don't know if it was hitting full boost on the dyno.

Yeah they are 810's I'm running 2 255's in series and base pressure is 75 psi. At full boost they are flowing almost 1200cc/min. According to Deatschwerks pressure/flow chart

[Tom N]

I also find those numbers to be a but low for E85. You need more timing for starters. E85 requires a lot of timing.
Looks like your AFR is around 12.8-13 if that's correct you should richen it up. That's too lean for E85.
Not sure why your spinning on the dyno with that little hp unless you have some stupid camber issue.

[Member]

The wide band in the car reads between 10.8-11.5 under boost. And it was definitely spinning the tires. The Dyno room smelled like rubber and it picked up 30lb/ft just from tightening the straps. It built 200lb/ft in 15mph that's a pretty big jump. And I am running 255's with .5 degree of camber in the rear. It spins 3rd from a roll no problem on the street so I totally understand it spinning on the Dyno. And I know the HP seems low for the boost level however 400+ tq is pretty impressive for a T2 flanged SR.

[Member]

Does anyone else have Dyno graphs? I'm curious what other people's curves look like. I am not shooting for a high number with my tune. More looking for a broad power band. My car is used mainly for drifting and I wanted a very long hp/torque curve.

[galant_x]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ert7442dtx...i%201.jpg?dl=0

Thats my graph on 95 ron and 1,85 bar boost.
I am even peaking more torque the you are. But it seams to fall of at a higher rate on top of the power band.
Whats your max RPM on the dyno!?

[Member]

Pulls were to 7500. The big cams help with the long flat curve. Smaller cams would probably give more of a peak. That is pretty good for Gas. What cams are you running?