What standalone ecu do u recomend?!?!

[derass]

Is that a tuning solution or only a data display?

[slider2828]

Well you need to run a datalogit with this display. So technically it logs the data and can run it back on the display. But that is an example of the output of a potential real time display solution for the powerfc.

[RB25GUY]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Well you need to run a datalogit with this display. So technically it logs the data and can run it back on the display. But that is an example of the output of a potential real time display solution for the powerfc.

this is awesome, Thanks for sharing man!

[KAT-PWR]

Nismotronics +Bluetooth + android tuner view is most cost effective for a nice gauge display

[TheRealSy90]

AEM Infinity + CanBus + BTI Can gauge or any canbus display. Real time every parameter the ecu sees.


The Infinity ECU can basically tell you what to change to optimize the tune.

[KAT-PWR]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

AEM Infinity + CanBus + BTI Can gauge or any canbus display. Real time every parameter the ecu sees.


The Infinity ECU can basically tell you what to change to optimize the tune.

Retail 2.3 million for that set up?

Just checked, yikes 2k and you're not even rolling yet

[RB25GUY]

Originally Posted by KAT-PWR

Retail 2.3 million for that set up?

Just checked, yikes 2k and you're not even rolling yet

im good with my st8100, Power FC and greddy gauges and a extra grand or so that i have in my pocket from not buying that ecu...

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by KAT-PWR

Retail 2.3 million for that set up?

Just checked, yikes 2k and you're not even rolling yet

Almost anybody should be able to purchase an Infinity EMS for under MSRP. Lets say sub 1,400. A wiring harness from WS is 600. So 2 grand and you're rolling with an Infinity EMS.


The BTI Canbus gauge is $350 I believe. But it's not a necessity. Hell if you have an Infinity hooked up to the proper sensors, and failsafes enabled properly, there's really no need to have any gauges at all unless you want to monitor stuff that it's already monitoring.

[KAT-PWR]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Almost anybody should be able to purchase an Infinity EMS for under MSRP. Lets say sub 1,400. A wiring harness from WS is 600. So 2 grand and you're rolling with an Infinity EMS.


The BTI Canbus gauge is $350 I believe. But it's not a necessity. Hell if you have an Infinity hooked up to the proper sensors, and failsafes enabled properly, there's really no need to have any gauges at all unless you want to monitor stuff that it's already monitoring.

pricey for the bare min

[Kingtal0n]

On a budget, Power FC is ideal. I grab mine for $350 in ebay. If you know what you are doing, very easy to tune.

[steve shadows]

Haltech, AEM and Apexi Power FC are all the top picks for Nissan applications.

[KAT-PWR]

With how cheap tablets are now for $100 you can have realtime full ecu gauge display.... and you get a tablet you can use for other stuff if you have Nismotronics

[slider2828]

Any wireless usage for gauges has a lag in it. With datalogit and raspexi you can configure the screen anyway you want, no lag, and log all at the same time.

[jr_ss]

I'm not sure why people are still suggesting 20yr old technology to run high hp motors these days. If you've spent some cash on your motor/setup, it behooves you to spend the additional money to get an adequate EMS. PFCs and ROM tunes have their place on mildly modified/stock cars, but they do not belong in something making decent power. There are so many more affordable options available with far more processing power and I/Os to setup anything function you want.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

I'm not sure why people are still suggesting 20yr old technology to run high hp motors these days. If you've spent some cash on your motor/setup, it behooves you to spend the additional money to get an adequate EMS. PFCs and ROM tunes have their place on mildly modified/stock cars, but they do not belong in something making decent power. There are so many more affordable options available with far more processing power and I/Os to setup anything function you want.

sr20 = not a high hp motor (and if it is, you have bigger problems)

I'd rather spend $800 on a 5.3L from a van than $1800 on a computer for a 2.0L. Money spent wisely gives a higher HP to $$ ratio. The right stock 5.3 Will hold 500-600RWHP reliably for many years, in a 240sx chassis. If I can hold 650rwhp down with a $350 computer in a plug-and-play sequential application, then just to even THINK of suggesting that we need a $2000 computer for some reason, better have double or triple that power. Sequential is Sequential, its not like spending more on the computer is going to make the engine run much better at wide open throttle when it comes down to it, they do the same thing.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

sr20 = not a high hp motor (and if it is, you have bigger problems)

You're right, an SR in factory or BPU trim isn't. When you start pushing 5-600crank hp, it is. Having a means to monitor and protect your investment is what upgrading to a quality EMS is all about, regardless of the amount of power you're making. You don't see your beloved 2j making gobs of power on a stock EMS do you? We don't care if you live or die in your stock, don't upgrade anything mentality and world, but leave your bible thumping 2j rhetoric out of this thread.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

You're right, an SR in factory or BPU trim isn't. When you start pushing 5-600crank hp, it is. Having a means to monitor and protect your investment is what upgrading to a quality EMS is all about, regardless of the amount of power you're making. You don't see your beloved 2j making gobs of power on a stock EMS do you? We don't care if you live or die in your stock, don't upgrade anything mentality and world, but leave your bible thumping 2j rhetoric out of this thread.

a 5.3L is an LSx V8, not a 2jz. I never mentioned the 2jz. That said, yes I've also been able to keep 2jz-gte engines at 500~rwhp using a stock computer and a SAFC, as well as stock 5.3L LSx can keep the OEM ECU (HPtuner is preferable over say, megasquirt) at 800rwhp or better. Since the OEM computer of the 2jz uses a map sensor and comes factory with a turbo, the timing is relatively 'safe' at moderate boost pressures since there is little difference in timing between 12 and 18psi of boost, although methanol injection is highly recommended.

Furthermore, you might not realize this but the sr20det is very similar to the 2jz-gte, both are 86x86mm engines and both use a 8.5:1 compression factory cast aluminum piston, & hemispherical combustion chamber.

No sr20 should be pushed beyond 400rwhp when there are engines available for less cost that will support more power. Unless you have a specific reason to hold on dearly to the sr20- it just doesn't make any sense to use a 2.0L, to "build" a 2.0L of any kind. I am only a fan of stock components when they suit the application. If I want 800rwhp and there were no stock engines to hold that kind of power with reasonable cost, sure build it. But don't build the smallest engine you can find that will work, always build the largest.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

2jz-gte engines at 500~rwhp using a stock computer and a SAFC

You just solidified my arguement with those 5 words... Yes, it can be done, but at what cost? You think I'm going to throw thousands into a motor setup and tune it with a computer signal manipulator so everything "appears" to play nice together? You're even crazier than I pegged you for.

Not to mention, we aren't discussing what your opinion is in regards to what motor should do what. No body cares what power level you think a motor should live and thrive at. We as a car people/culture like to push boundaries. Playing it "safe" will never open the door for progression.

Seriously though, dude wants to run a standalone EMS on an RB setup, let him spend his money how he sees fit. Quit pounding the LSX and 2j shit down people's throats. Who cares if they make more power with less parts. The fact is, any setup requires monetary deposits to go fast, so spend YOUR money on what you want and keep YOUR motor swap ideas to yourself or build one so you can play with it.

With that said, my vote is Haltech. Built and designed around ALL Nissan factory sensors. No CAS wheel modification and PnP setups for various chassis'.

[soundboy]

Haltech gets my vote, but speak to a tuner. Unless you tuning yourself. Doesnt make sense going with something that the tuner cant tune.

SAFC and powerfc has their place in the ecu/piggyback world but once you start getting into it , these quickly arnt enough.

[KAT-PWR]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

a 5.3L is an LSx V8, not a 2jz. I never mentioned the 2jz. That said, yes I've also been able to keep 2jz-gte engines at 500~rwhp using a stock computer and a SAFC, as well as stock 5.3L LSx can keep the OEM ECU (HPtuner is preferable over say, megasquirt) at 800rwhp or better. Since the OEM computer of the 2jz uses a map sensor and comes factory with a turbo, the timing is relatively 'safe' at moderate boost pressures since there is little difference in timing between 12 and 18psi of boost, although methanol injection is highly recommended.

Furthermore, you might not realize this but the sr20det is very similar to the 2jz-gte, both are 86x86mm engines and both use a 8.5:1 compression factory cast aluminum piston, & hemispherical combustion chamber.

Originally Posted by jr_ss

You just solidified my arguement with those 5 words... Yes, it can be done, but at what cost? You think I'm going to throw thousands into a motor setup and tune it with a computer signal manipulator so everything "appears" to play nice together? You're even crazier than I pegged you for.

Not to mention, we aren't discussing what your opinion is in regards to what motor should do what. No body cares what power level you think a motor should live and thrive at. We as a car people/culture like to push boundaries. Playing it "safe" will never open the door for progression.

did you just skip the whole part where he dropped basis for his suggestions?

I do agree with you here (fig.2)

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by soundboy

Haltech gets my vote, but speak to a tuner. Unless you tuning yourself. Doesnt make sense going with something that the tuner cant tune.

SAFC and powerfc has their place in the ecu/piggyback world but once you start getting into it , these quickly arnt enough.

start naming all the features of the power FC for me. Then do the same and list all the features of, say, AEM or Haltech.

now, circle the critical features, such as datalogging, VE map tuning, closed loop operation, etc...

Whats that? Both ECU have the same identical critical feature lists? So you are telling me that the power-FC is true, full stand-alone ECU, with all required capability of the more expensive AEM for high power cars?

Lets get nitty gritty. How many AEM/Haltech/PFC/MS/etc... have you (and whoever else wants to play) tuned, as of right now, that they can substantiate and validate the claim that the "Power FC wasn't enough"? When has anybody ever had a power FC that "wasn't good enough"? I've never had that happen and I am on PFC car #100+ lost count

[inopsey]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

start naming all the features of the power FC for me. Then do the same and list all the features of, say, AEM or Haltech.

now, circle the critical features, such as datalogging, VE map tuning, closed loop operation, etc...

Whats that? Both ECU have the same identical critical feature lists? So you are telling me that the power-FC is true, full stand-alone ECU, with all required capability of the more expensive AEM for high power cars?

pfc has one starting/warmup map if i remember correctly, 'cranking fuel'. haltech has several staring/warmup maps. starting the car and warming up the car are imho critical mapping parameters for a reliable oem-like setup. this is just one of the limitations of the pfc.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by inopsey

pfc has one starting/warmup map if i remember correctly, 'cranking fuel'. haltech has several staring/warmup maps. starting the car and warming up the car are imho critical mapping parameters for a reliable oem-like setup. this is just one of the limitations of the pfc.

Oh I completely agree, for the first 3-4 minutes after I start my wildly cammed PFC sr20 car, I need to keep my foot on the gas to keep the RPM slightly higher than it would otherwise be, for peace of mind of course (oil pressure related concerns). This is the only notable drawback to the Power FC that I am aware of (idle speed fluctuations which require elegant solutions).

This is such a small price to pay, I bear it no mind. It isn't worth jumping to a $2000 computer over this 3-4 minutes of holding the gas pedal slightly each morning. If you can't handle that, you shouldn't be driving a wildly modified vehicle.

Furthermore, it isn't the power FC's fault. The Sr20 specifically has a coolant regulated airpath for cold-start situations that is probably adjustable (I haven't gave enough shits to try yet). On my father's car we installed a ball-valve to help with this issue. You could also do any number of other things, i.e. solenoid on a timer, or a switch, or even a vacuum line run into the car you can quickly plug once the engine warms a bit. Again, not a $2000 problem.

[TheRealSy90]

Infinity works with the stock sr20 CAS wheel. Not that loosening and tightening three screws is a big deal to change the wheel..

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Infinity works with the stock sr20 CAS wheel. Not that loosening and tightening three screws is a big deal to change the wheel..

Valid point, but why diminish the resolution of the factory sensor?

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Infinity works with the stock sr20 CAS wheel. Not that loosening and tightening three screws is a big deal to change the wheel..

aftermarket computers in general have a hard time dealing with the high resolution CAS of the sr20det. Many ECU such as megasquirt will not use it, and stick only to the inner 4 windows for operation. AEM has been known for years to fail when using the OEM cas disc, all kinds of trouble, so much that they now offer their own disc.

Here is one of my first AEM tunes in the sr world
http://www.freshalloy.com/showthread...stock-manifold


I wonder why it is that power FC plugs right in and works using the OEM sr20det disc, whereas all the expensive aftermarket options fall on their faces with it. Is it perhaps, that maybe, the Power FC is a well designed, more well suited, well tested applied research and development for stand-alone engine management for our engines? The power FC is the Japanese "god"'s gift to us, a low cost option presented for JDM engines that the American engines do not have. It is specifically designed for the engine and all of its components- as opposed to being open and generic. Some are taking this gift for granted, shunning it because of it's low cost. How ridiculous!


this thread is alot of fun and I thank those who participate, hope understand Im trying to keep posts short so cutting out words (grammar/punctuation will be affected)

[ADIDASilvias]

Link G4+ plug in - will do everything a Haltech can and the price point is hard to beat if you find the right seller on eBay (performance_downunder). Link is a NZ company, but the eBay seller has it listed in AUD. With the strong USD to AUD exchange ratio I got mine for $1167 shipped, for a NEO GTTLink. The R33 plug in is even less expensive. The interface is very intuitive, and any tuner with experience should be able to tune it as it is close to the Haltech format. It has some extremely nice features for the price, and their forums are very active with Link Reps and they are very good at helping figure out issues.

I originally looked at the PFC L-Jetro, but decided I wanted to go MAP. The PFC D-Jetro for the NEO was $1050, so the minimal bump up in cost resulted in a much better ECU with the Link G4+. The PFC is solid tech, but it is true that it is aging. The Link is cutting edge, and well worth it in my opinion.

Watch some HP Academy videos on the Link, they are very informative.

Just my 2 cents. The AEM and Haltech are also very good.

[inopsey]

Originally Posted by ADIDASilvias

Link G4+ plug in - will do everything a Haltech can and the price point is hard to beat if you find the right seller on eBay (performance_downunder). Link is a NZ company, but the eBay seller has it listed in AUD. With the strong USD to AUD exchange ratio I got mine for $1167 shipped, for a NEO GTTLink. The R33 plug in is even less expensive. The interface is very intuitive, and any tuner with experience should be able to tune it as it is close to the Haltech format. It has some extremely nice features for the price, and their forums are very active with Link Reps and they are very good at helping figure out issues.

I originally looked at the PFC L-Jetro, but decided I wanted to go MAP. The PFC D-Jetro for the NEO was $1050, so the minimal bump up in cost resulted in a much better ECU with the Link G4+. The PFC is solid tech, but it is true that it is aging. The Link is cutting edge, and well worth it in my opinion.

Watch some HP Academy videos on the Link, they are very informative.

Just my 2 cents. The AEM and Haltech are also very good.

link is absolute garbage from my experience and their customer service leaves something to be desired. bought one of their g4 plug in systems for my car and wouldnt start the car or connect to the laptop right out of the box, brand new ecu. spent a week trying to sort it out with the link rep by email from NZ but still wouldnt start the car or connect to the laptop. (car had ran perfectly fine before). link rep blamed my setup but eventually said to return it to factory for diagnosis. after a while i was told it was a bad ecu and there was a service charge to fix a brand new ecu. luckily i paid with pp and was able to file a claim to get my refund. bought a haltech and it connected to the laptop and started the car on the first attempt. went to the link website to post the issue with their plug in ecu, the post lasted maybe 8 hours.

[ADIDASilvias]

Originally Posted by inopsey

link is absolute garbage from my experience and their customer service leaves something to be desired. bought one of their g4 plug in systems for my car and wouldnt start the car or connect to the laptop right out of the box, brand new ecu. spent a week trying to sort it out with the link rep by email from NZ but still wouldnt start the car or connect to the laptop. (car had ran perfectly fine before). link rep blamed my setup but eventually said to return it to factory for diagnosis. after a while i was told it was a bad ecu and there was a service charge to fix a brand new ecu. luckily i paid with pp and was able to file a claim to get my refund. bought a haltech and it connected to the laptop and started the car on the first attempt. went to the link website to post the issue with their plug in ecu, the post lasted maybe 8 hours.

That sucks you had a bad experience with Link. They seem to be very well regarded on the AUS and UK skyline forums. It is often the first recommendation from their senior members when this very same question is posed, along with the Vipec which is the same company. I do not have any first hand experience, yet, but I have watched a dozen or so tuning videos specifically on the Link and quite a few others using a range of other ECUs and it seems to be pretty much in line with the more expensive ECU options with regards to ease of tuning and capabilities.

For what it's worth, one of the reasons I went with the Link is that I will be running a custom digital dash utilizing the CANBUS output. I did a lot of research on the use of the Raspexi program for a digital display, and it just seemed like more work than it should be and not suitable for the primary dash display. As a secondary display though it would work fine.

My only reservations regarding the Link is that they do not have a crapload of US representation. I am decently adept at hardware and software implementation, and my understanding of tuning is modest. I am no pro, but I know my way around and should be able to get it set up and modestly tuned before hitting the dyno for the professionals to take over and stretch its legs.

[hanzbrady]

So, since were just having a pissing contest now, how about Megasquirt? Granted they dont make a PNP for the RB's, but there is one for the SR (yeah like we were all so on topic anyways)